The Musings of Ron Kapon

Lions and Tigers- My Visit to Princeton, New Jersey

Let’s start with the fact that I went to Columbia College and the Columbia Graduate School of Business. Our mascot is the Lion. Princeton’s mascot is the Tiger. On an early fall Sunday I arrived in Princeton for a two day visit. A few weeks earlier the Columbia football team, not known as a powerhouse, destroyed Princeton 38-0. This was Columbia’s first road shutout since 1961. Trivia alert- the 1869 game between Rutgers and Princeton is notable because it was the first documented game of any sport called "football" between two American colleges.

Princeton, New Jersey is located in Mercer County with the university founded in 1746 and moved to Princeton in 1756. New Jersey's capital is the city of Trenton, but the governor's official residence has been in Princeton since 1945. Although Princeton is a "college town," (the area gets almost 1 1/2 million visitors a year) there are other important institutions in the area, including Rider University, the Institute for Advanced Study, Educational Testing Service (ETS), Siemens Corporate Research, The Robert Wood Johnson Foundation, Tyco International, Verizon, Bristol Myers Squibb, Berlitz International, and Dow Jones & Company. The town is roughly equidistant between New York and Philadelphia. Princeton has been home to New York commuters since the end of World War II. It took me less than two hours to arrive at The Nassau Inn in the center of town. The original building (on Nassau Street) was also built in 1756 (they moved to their present location in 1937) and their 203 guestrooms have been updated with all modern conveniences. I stopped for a bagel in the Yankee Doodle Tap Room & Restaurant to admire their 13-foot wide Norman Rockwell mural, valued at over 1 1/2 million dollars. All the other 47 name brand hotels are located outside of the downtown area, mainly along Route 1.

Ben Bernanke, Chairman of the Board of Governors of the United States Federal Reserve is a Princeton University professor. So are writers Joyce Carol Oates and Toni Morrison as well as John Forbes Nash, Jr., mathematician, subject of A Beautiful Mind. Notable visiting writers have included: Saul Bellows, Philip Roth and Gertrude Stein. Grover Cleveland, the 22nd and 24th President of the United States retired to, died in, and is buried in Princeton. Albert Einstein, physicist, was a fellow at the Institute for Advanced Study.  Christopher Reeve, actor, grew up in Princeton, attended Princeton Day School. Paul Robeson, singer, actor, athlete, civil rights activist, also born and raised in Princeton. Woodrow Wilson, 28th President of the United States, 13th president of Princeton University and Governor of New Jersey. First Lady Michelle Obama graduated from Princeton, as did Brooke Shields and David Duchovny. Former US Senator Bill Bradley and Princeton basketball All-American is also a member of the Basketball Hall of Fame. One comical note- Brooke Shields dated Dean Cain who would play Superman. Christopher Reeve was also Superman and he grew up in Princeton.

Mimi Omiecinski, owner and operator of the Princeton Tour Company, greeted me in the lobby of the Nassau Inn. The first hour was a walking tour of the university. The school is one of the eight universities of the Ivy League. Princeton University has traditionally focused on undergraduate education (4,900), although it has almost 2,500 graduate students. I was surprised to learn that Princeton does not have a law, medical or business school but it does offer professional master's degrees (through the Woodrow Wilson School of Public and International Affairs) and doctoral programs in the sciences, humanities, and social sciences, as well as engineering. Nassau Hall, the oldest building on campus was named for the Dutch William III of England of the House of Orange-Nassau. The college also adopted orange as its school color from William III. Originally, the sculptures in front of the building were lions (Go Columbia!). These were later replaced with tigers in 1911. A variety of sculptures adorn the campus. They include pieces by Henry Moore, Clement Meadmore, and Alexander Calder. In 1969, Princeton University first admitted women as undergraduates (Columbia did the same in 1983). During the American Revolution, British and American forces occupied Princeton on different occasions. The Battle of Princeton, fought in a nearby field in January of 1777, proved to be a decisive victory for General George Washington and his troops. Two of Princeton's leading citizens signed the United States Declaration of Independence: Richard Stockton and Clergyman John Witherspoon, who was later president of the college (whose great, great, great granddaughter is the actress Reese Witherspoon).

The Princeton Triangle Club, a student performance group, built the Tony-award-winning McCarter Theatre. Today, the Triangle Club performs its annual freshmen revue and fall musicals in McCarter. McCarter is also recognized as one of the leading regional theaters in the United States. The Princeton University Art Museum has nearly 60,000 objects. The collections range from ancient to contemporary art and concentrate geographically on the Mediterranean regions, Western Europe, China, the United States, and Latin America. There is a collection of Greek and Roman antiquities, including ceramics, marble, bronzes, and Roman mosaics. The collection of Western European paintings includes examples from the early Renaissance through the nineteenth century and features a collection of twentieth-century and contemporary art. One of the best features of the museums is its collection of Chinese art including bronzes, tomb figurines, painting, and calligraphy. The museum has collections of old master prints and drawings and a comprehensive collection of original photographs. African and Indian art are also represented. Princeton University Chapel is the third-largest college chapel in the world, behind those of Valparaiso University and King's College, Cambridge, England. Known for its gothic architecture, the chapel houses one of the largest and most precious stained glass collections in the country.

For the next hour Mimi drove me around the Princeton area and a visit first to The Institute for Advanced Study,a center for theoretical research and intellectual inquiry. The Institute is perhaps best known as the academic home of Albert Einstein, after his immigration to the United States. The Institute has no formal links to Princeton University or other educational institutions. Princeton is also the home of Drumthwacket, the official residence of the Governor of New Jersey, although nearby Trenton is the state capitol. I had a brief visit to Princeton Battlefield State Park, the 100-acre state park that preserves the site of the Battle of Princeton (January 3, 1777); we didn’t have time to enter the Princeton Cemetery where Aaron Burr, Grover Cleveland and George Gallup, among others, are buried as I had a half-hour drive to my next appointment.

 

Contact by Seward Johnson ©- The Sculpture Foundation

Carlos Dorien- The Nine Muses- Photo by David Steele

The Grounds for Sculpture is a 35-acre sculpture park with two museum buildings on the site of the former NJ State Fairgrounds in Trenton. My only problem was having enough time to see the 250 sculptures, most in their natural settings. They were kind enough to provide a golf cart and docent to speed me through. I have to return and spend an afternoon there. Founded in 1992 by John Seward Johnson II (of Johnson & Johnson fame) the venue was intended to be dedicated to promoting an understanding of and appreciation for contemporary sculpture, including many by Johnson. Richard Moscovitz, the manager of Rat’s Restaurant, gave me a tour. Why the name Rat's? In Kenneth Grahame's classic, The Wind in the Willows, one of Seward Johnson's favorite books, the character Ratty represented everything a host should be.  As founder of Rat's and Grounds For Sculpture, Johnson likens himself to Ratty who threw the best parties with the best wine. It is designed to make visitors feel they have stepped into a village reminiscent of French impressionist Claude Monet's beloved town of Giverny.  The restaurant overlooks Johnson’s sculptures inspired by Impressionists paintings, as well as the lily pond and bridge inspired by the works of Monet. After a meal one is invited to enter the Grounds for Sculpture at no charge. I can’t wait to go back for Sunday brunch and a few more hours touring the grounds.

My dinner that night was at Mediterra, only a block from the Nassau Inn. It features cuisine from the 21 countries surrounding the Mediterranean Sea. Chef  Luis Bollo prepared two dishes from scratch based on my allergy to all nuts. A great meal. My other meal was lunch at Witherspoon Grill also only 1 block from my hotel. I met Adam Perle, Vice President of the Princeton Regional Chamber of Commerce who arranged all my visits, at this classic steakhouse. After lunch we walked to The Princeton Corkscrew Wine Shop, considered the premier wine shop in town. We also stopped by the Paul Robeson Center for the Arts, again only a few blocks from the wine shop.

Moving backwards to earlier that morning I was given a tour of the Nassau Inn by General Manager Lori Rabon and then a private tour of the Princeton Art Museum (see the description earlier in this story) by associate director Becky Sender. The museum is closed on Mondays so we had it all to ourselves. I did learn that admission to the museum is free. The kind folks at the Princeton Regional Chamber of Commerce gave me a gift certificate for the Princeton Record Exchange, again only a few blocks from the Nassau Inn. It is one of the largest independent music stores in the US and I found a prefect CD set of the US Presidents. It was time to return to NYC with a desire to return very soon.

For More Information-

www.visitprinceton.org

www.nassauinn.com

www.princetontourcompany.com

www.groundsforsculpture.org

www.groundsforsculpture.org/ratsrestaurant

www.terramomo.com

www.artmuseum.princeton.edu

www.witherspoongrill.com

www.princetonchamber.org

www.artscouncilofprinceton.org

www.princetoncorkscrew.com

www.prexnj.com

York County Pennsylvania- The Factory Tour & Snack Food Capitol of the World, and the UnCork York Wine Trail

An invitation to visit a few of the 12 family-owned wineries along the UnCork York Wine Trail led me to do more research on the York County area. Located about 4 hours from NYC, the city of York is also less than 55 miles from Baltimore, Gettysburg’s Battlefields, Harrisburg (PA capitol), Hershey’s Chocolate World and Lancaster’s Amish Country. Having been to all of the other five I decided 3 days in York County would work for me. Available tours include a brewery,  a weaver, woodcraft, a farm dairy and of course Harley-Davidson Motor Company. York Barbell is a reseller of barbells and other equipment for weight training and bodybuilding and is the home of the USA Weightlifting Hall of Fame. The historic York Fair, which claims to be the country's oldest, traces its roots to 1765. It runs every year in September for 10 days. I wish I had more time since I was there during its run. When you get hungry there is always Hershey’s Chocolate World, Martin’s Potato Chips, Revonah Pretzels, Synder’s of Hanover, Utz Quality Foods, Wolfgang Candy and Stauffer’s Biscuit Company. One can visit more than 20 factory tours to discover how America’s favorite products are crafted and all are made right there in York County. Nothing was more than 35 minutes from my other stops and both Map Quest & my GPS system kept me from ever getting lost. I only wish the State of Pennsylvania was more accommodating to the wineries by allowing Wine Trail signs and did not charge an arm & a leg for the few signs they did allow.

York was founded in 1741 by settlers from the Philadelphia region and named for the English city of the same name. York was incorporated as a city in 1887. During the American Revolutionary War (1775–1783), York served as the temporary capital of the Continental Congress. The Articles of Confederation were drafted and adopted in York. During the American Civil War (1861–1865), York became the largest Northern town to be occupied by the Confederate army.

My first stop was at Susquehanna Glass in Columbia, about 30 minutes from my home base of York. Founded in 1910 it is still in the Rowen family today. With a few exceptions the equipment is the same used almost a century ago. My private tour showed me how personalized engravings were made on different styles of glass. The company does not make glass but purchases standard sizes and makes them special. Have a favorite NFL, NBA or MLB team? They will used the official logo for that team and add something personal (name, occasion etc). While in Columbia spend a few minutes at the National Watch & Clock Museum. There have over 12,000 treasures of time.

My home for two nights was the Lady Linden B&B in a restored Victorian Queen Anne style B&B built in 1887. Jim & Jean Leaman lived across the street and decided to lovingly restore the 3 bedrooms available as well as the parlor, dining room and grounds to its former splendor, as well as moving in upstairs. Dinner the first night was at the Commonwealth Room of the Yorktowne Hotel which opened in 1925. It is York County’s only AAA Four-Diamond restaurant. They are a member of the Historic Hotels of America. Chef Mark Pawlowski prepared a 7-course winemaker dinner, with wine pairings, just for me. I never made it through the 7 courses. 

The next morning I walked around the historic downtown district past the Strand-Capitol Performing Arts Center to the Central Market House. Fresh produce, meats and cheeses along with assorted gift items filled one of the oldest market houses in the country. It was now time to begin my UnCork York Wine Trail adventure. On Friday-Sunday November 20-22 from 11AM-5PM Wine Just Off The Vine allows participants into the cellars of 10 wineries for tank and barrel tasting of newly pressed wines fresh from the harvest. For $10 you receive an UnCork York Wine glass and a 10% discount at participating wineries. I was able to visit 4 of the 10 wineries starting with an old friend Dick Naylor, owner of his namesake Naylor Wine Cellars.  He believed that York County could produce premium wines when he started 30 years ago. As an aside he is still active in his mid-80’s but his mother is 107 and still going because she has a glass of his wine every day. We used an ATV to tour much of his 27-acres of vines with over 40 varieties. He has a pavilion for musical presentations along with a wine and food stand.

William Penn brought grapevines with him to the New World in the 1600s. Traditional native grapes such as Concord, Niagara & Catawba along with hybrid varieties including Chambourcin & Vidal Blanc are grown in certain parts of the state. The humid summers and often-frigid winters dictate which grapes grow where. There are parts of the area that are warmer and have cool microclimates that allow the classic European vinifera grapes Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon to flourish. 

Who knew that I would find paradise in Seven Valleys where I spoke to co-owner Charles Aldinger at his boutique (1,000 case) Four Springs Winery? I loved his labels for Fat Cat red wine and City Kitty white wine because Renoir, my 2-year-old city fat cat, loves sipping wine. Across the street I had lunch at Serenity Station Deli Café. The building houses a day spa run by Barbara Smeltzer while her husband Steve tends to the restaurant and gave me a history lesson. The building is 170 years old. The old Northern Central Railroad ran along what is now the York County Heritage Rail Trail located at the rear of the building. The “Freight Room” has photos & documents of the history of Serenity Station. From the Maryland state line to Seven Valleys it is 11 miles. The outside garden houses entertainment on Friday & Saturday nights through October 16^th.

I had two appointments in Wrightsville, which was an easy 30-minute drive. The weather was perfect with sun and temperatures in the high 70’s so I spent most of the time talking to owner Jim Miller at his Moon Dancer Vineyards & Winery on his patio listening to a jazz trio and looking at the Susquehanna River. He had another band performing that night. Dinner was at John Wright Restaurant along the same Susquehanna River. You can see the remains of the civil war era historic Wrightsville Bridge while you dine outdoors. The Union Army blew up the bridge so the Confederate Army had to move the long way, by land. The John Wright Company specializes in cast iron products for the home & garden, selling shelf brackets, fireplace and woodstove accessories, Christmas tree stands and more. It is worthwhile strolling through the store before, or after your meals.

My last morning was spent at Allegro Vineyards where co-owner Carl Helrich spoke about his choice to make wine and skip the entertainment opportunities at the winery. He does sell his wine at 5 other company owned outlets in the region. Pennsylvania law allows up to 5 outside sales sources. The winery was founded in 1980 and Carl and his wife Kris Miller bought the property in 2000. It was an easy 4-hour drive back to New York City as once again the sun and temperature made for a lovely 3-day visit.

 For More Information-

www.yorkpa.org

www.uncorkyork.com

www.yorkpa.org/tours

www.naylorwine.com

www.harley-davidson.com/experience

www.theglassfactory.com

www.allegrowines.com

www.fourspringswinerypa.com

www.moondancerwinery.com

www.stauffers.net

www.serenity-station.com

www.yorktowne.com

www.jwright.com

www.johnwrightrestaurant.com

Wining, Dining & Touring in California’s Central Coast- Part 2

Part 1 of this article covered the Central Coast from the San Francisco Airport south through San Jose, Santa Cruz, Gilroy, Monterey, Carmel, Big Sur, Paso Robles, Hearst Castle & back to the airport. Less than three months later I was on my way to Los Angeles, Oxnard, Ventura, Santa Barbara, Solvang, Santa Ynez, San Luis Obispo & back to Los Angeles. At my farthest point in San Luis Obispo I was only 27 miles from my farthest point during Part 1. Much of the technical wine information can be found by reading Part 1 and I did not want to waste your time by repeating that information here.

As a savvy travel shopper I rarely rent cars from companies using airport locations. Someone has to pay for that valuable space, taxes and shuttle buses. Searching the internet I found "OK Rent a Car" which has only 1 location, next to the Hilton Hotel on Century Boulevard, about 5 minutes from the airport. Their price for a PT Cruiser convertible (this was California) was almost $425 cheaper than any rental agency at LAX. Do your homework. Because "OK" had only one location I had to agree to pay for any towing if the car broke down outside the greater LA area. I also supplied my own insurance. My auto policy covered me; my corporate Amex card covered my insurance deductible & my AAA Plus policy covered towing up to 100 miles. True, my farthest point was 200 miles from LA but there was never a problem with the car.

My hosts always ask me what type of accommodations I prefer. My answer is a bed, air conditioning, a TV & internet. I ask for unusual hotels, B&B’s and Inns that I can write about. I did stay at two brand name chain hotels, but each was distinctive. My other nights were spent at an historic inn and one of the most unusual hotels I have ever seen. Read on for all the details.

This trip started and ended with a visit with my friend Geoff whom I have known since he was 13 years old. I spent the first and last nights of my trip with Geoff and his wife Tara at their condo in West LA, just 20 minutes from LAX. After dinner I was introduced to Yogurtland. For 30 cents an ounce, with lots of flavors and toppings, I was in heaven. When will they come to NYC? My first stop was less than an hour's drive at Herzog Wine Cellars in Oxnard. They specialize in artisanal winemaking and special reserve wines that happen to be kosher. I ate lunch at the Tierra Sur restaurant on property that serves seasonal Mediterranean cuisine. The city of 200,000 is the largest in Ventura County and is California’s largest strawberry producer. With 20 miles of mostly uncrowded coastline Oxnard serves with adjacent Ventura as the Gateway to the Channel Islands, famous for hiking and 2,000 plants & animals. The 5 offshore islands have no hotels or restaurants but Channel Island Harbor has a dive center, kayak rentals, boat charters, a yacht club and 9 marinas. There is also the Ventura County Maritime Museum, a small venue but well worth the stop with free admission. Oxnard is located near the 130-store Camarillo Premium Outlets and has a brand new California Welcome Center. We visited the tasting room of Rancho Ventavo Cellars located in a 1902 house within Heritage Square. This city block has relocated historic houses, which are now used for business and fun, and also has free Friday night concerts.  I stayed at the 248-room Embassy Suites Mandalay Beach Hotel & Resort, directly on the water. This is southern California’s only all-suite beachfront resort. It was unlike any Embassy Suites I had ever seen. A free evening reception, including alcohol, and a fully cooked free breakfast were included. I had a relaxing dinner at Capistrano’s, located inside the hotel and overlooking the pool. There is an arcaded courtyard, 50-foot ceilings and windows around the top.

The next day I had a short 30-minute drive to Ventura. This city of 107,000 is one of the best sites in southern California for surfing. It sits in the foothills of Los Padres National Forest. The visitor’s center in downtown is the recommended first stop. On the way into town I stopped briefly at Ventura Harbor filled with restaurants, shops, fishing areas and the headquarters of the Channel Islands National Park, referred to as “America’s Galapagos.” The ornate city hall has the obligatory statue of Father Junipero Serra, the founder of California’s mission system. The early 1930’s Majestic Ventura Theater holds many concerts. Nearby is the headquarters of Patagonia. I tried to find time to get to their annual 50% off sale but only had 4 hours in town and chose touring over shopping. We did have time to taste wine at Old Creek Ranch Winery & watch their skateboard-riding dog. It is located 7 miles north of Ventura on a working cattle ranch in Ojai Valley. Lunch was on Main Street at Jonathan’s located in a building built in 1877. The menu was a blend of cooking styles from many Mediterranean countries. I stopped for a glass of wine at The Wine Rack, and also Paradise Pantry, both of which have a large selection of Ventura County wines. An hour away I arrived in Santa Barbara for my two-day visit.

Again, I heard the word Ramada Inn and wondered what was in store for me. This one featured a tropical garden complete with freshwater lagoon. Filled with water lilies and home to ducks and koi fish, I sat out on my balcony and watched the sun set. Santa Barbara is called “The American Riviera” and is home to 93,000. If you include Montecito (check out the Four Seasons Hotel) and Carpinterra there are over 200,000 in the Metro area. The waterfront area along Stearns Wharf (the west coast’s oldest operating wharf) has the famous Dolphin Fountain up front. I took a 1 1/2 hour tour with the Santa Barbara Trolley Company that leaves every hour right next to the wharf. We stopped at the SB Mission built in 1786 that is dubbed the Queen of the Missions.” I returned, after the tour, for a visit to the SB Courthouse built in 1929 in the Spanish-Moorish style. I had dinner the first night at Downey’s on State Street, the city’s main drag. I had the best duck I have tasted in the past 10 years. I wished I had time to see a concert at the 2,000 seat Arlington Theatre located a few blocks from my dinner location. I also stopped at the Moreton Bay Fig Tree, the largest in North America.

The next day I had lunch at Pierre Lafond Wine Bistro and learned that there really is a Pierre Lafond. He and his wife own several high-end fashion boutiques and he operates the Santa Barbara Winery as well as a market in Montecito. His winery was originally opened in 1962 and was the first opened in the county after prohibition. Dinner was at Stella Mare’s in the Greenhouse overlooking the Bird Refuge featuring casual French Country Cuisine. I was there for live jazz Wednesday(s). I took the self guided Red Tile Walking Tour throughout downtown and visited several tasting rooms on the Urban Wine Trail.

I drove along the narrow and winding San Marcos Pass Road (State Road 154) through the Santa Ynez Mountains with large portions of the mountain range in the Los Padres National Forest toward Solvang and the Santa Ynez Valley. I stopped in the town of Santa Ynez to have lunch and a tour of the area with Jim Fiolek, the Executive Director of the Santa Barbara County Vintners Association. We stopped at the Chumash Casino Resort and he pointed out the various wine trails I could visit. I stopped to admire the Quicksilver Miniature Horse Ranch in Ballard. Even though I was not a Michael Jackson fan I could not resist stopping at Neverland Ranch. It is named after Neverland, the fantasy island in the story of Peter Pan, a boy who never grows up. The ranch is located about five miles north of unincorporated Los Olivos, and about eight miles north of the town of Santa Ynez. I picked up a Sideways Map and decided to visit several of the locations featured in the 2004 movie. I stopped at The Hitching Post & Ostrich Land, both in Buellton; Los Olivos Café, Foxen, Firestone & Fess Parker Wineries in Los Olivos and Kalyra Winery in Santa Ynez.

I overnighted at the Hadsten House Inn in downtown Solvang. Newly renovated with classic French furnishings this 71-room boutique inn offers wine & cheese from 3-5PM & a full American breakfast. We also had dinner in their restaurant. After dinner we drove to meet celebrity chef (is there any other kind? think super model?) Bradley Ogden (I have eaten at his restaurants in Las Vegas and San Francisco). Root 246 in the renovated, Chumash Indian owned Hotel Corque, (remember this is wine country) demonstrates his farm-to-table style of cooking. The only thing kept in the freezer is ice cream. He told me he spends at least two weeks a month here. Solvang is the Danish Capital of North America and means “sunny fields” in Danish. It features more than 200 European-style shops and bakeries and several wine tasting rooms. Tastes of the Valley Wine Bar had 140 wines from the area available for purchase. I spent a few minutes at the Hans Christian Andersen Museum a block from the Little Mermaid Fountain. Santa Maria Valley, Santa Ynez Valley and Santa Rita Hills appellations are the three AVAs (American Viticultural Area) in Santa Barbara County. There are over 100 wineries in the county and five existing wine trails. I visited the Foxen Canyon Road, Santa Ynez, Los Olivos, Santa Maria Valley, Solvang and Santa Rita Hills trails. In 1782 Father Junipero Serra brought grapevine cuttings from Mexico to be planted in the fertile bottoms of Sycamore Creek. The largest mission vineyard, about 25 acres, was located in the San Jose Creek area, and an adobe winery, built nearby in 1804, is now Goleta's oldest landmark. In 1884, Justinian Caire imported grape slips from France and planted a 150-acre vineyard on Santa Cruz Island. A grapevine planted in 1842 on a farm in Carpinteria has a trunk measuring nine feet around, an arbor covering two acres and an annual yield of ten tons of grapes.

The next morning I had an appointment with Brook Williams, the CEO of Zaca Mesa Winery on Foxen Canyon Road. Zaca Mesa is a Santa Ynez Valley estate winery, opened in 1973, dedicated to Rhone varieties. All the wines are made from grapes grown on 244 acres of vineyards and are designated as Estate Bottled. In an hour I arrived at my farthest point- San Luis Obispo- 200 miles north of LA.  Lunch was at the Cracked Crab in Pismo Beach and I tried to have a light meal. Good luck with plate after plate of delicious seafood appearing on the table. I was ready for a nap but duty called and we started a tour of Pismo Beach. It is known as the "Clam Capital" of California. The city holds the "Clam Festival" every October, complete with clam chowder competitions and a clam-themed parade. There was a 20-minute wait at the Splash Café to try their clam chowder. Yummy! Upon first entering Pismo Beach, a gigantic concrete clam statue greets visitors. In the Chumash Indian language the word Pismo means Tar. I have never traveled by RV but the Pismo Coast Village RV Park has room for 400 RV’s with a swimming pool, clubhouse and mini-golf.

We were running a bit late so I checked in at the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo and changed clothes for my Edna Valley Chardonnay & Pinot Noir tasting at Tolosa Winery. How do I describe the Madonna Inn? Built 50 years ago there are 110 rooms each with a special theme plus pool, exercise room, spa and the largest convention center on the Central Coast. Choose a romantic honeymoon suite with European-style luxury, the novelty of a Western, Old Mill or Merry-Go-Round theme or a stay in one the famous, all-rock grotto rooms with waterfall shower. I loved my waterfall shower but had to watch out for the real hanging rocks. The late owner Alex Madonna was a local builder; hence much of the materials for the rooms came through his construction work.

Midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, the SLO (that’s what the locals call it) wine region is comprised of three viticulture areas: the Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande Valley and Avila Valley. The small, mostly family-owned wineries are well known for their bottling of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Zinfandel and more. The marine influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean provides a mild summer and warm fall, resulting in an unusually long growing season. Combined with the region’s rocky volcanic soils, these growing conditions produce fruit with intense varietal character and complex flavors. San Luis Obispo County is the fourth-largest premium grape-growing region in Coastal California, just behind Sonoma, Napa and Monterey counties but ahead of southern neighbor Santa Barbara County. Over the past 20 years, vineyard acreage in San Luis Obispo County has increased to 29,000 acres. By comparison Santa Barbara County has 18,000 acres, Napa; 44,000 & Sonoma; 58,000. As of my visit there were 220 wineries with the most Syrah acreage in all of California. Attending the tasting at Tolosa were: Baileyana Winery, Claiborne & Churchill Vintners, Edna Valley Vineyard, Ortman Family Vineyard, Stephen Ross Wine Cellars, Tolosa Winery and Wolff Vineyards. We managed to catch a few minutes of the free Friday night Concert Series at Mission Plaza and enjoy a cocktail at Corner View Restaurant on the way to dinner at Ciopinot Restaurant with Bob Schiebelhut, co-owner of Tolosa Winery and several other wine people. Bob and I spent most of the evening talking basketball (he played guard at Cal Berkeley). What I admired about the restaurant, besides the food, was the no corkage charge policy.

My last day in the Central Coast I was given a tour of Morro Bay. The famous Morro Rock was named in 1542 by Portuguese navigator Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo who called the rock El Moro because it resembled the head of a Moor, the people from North Africa known for the turbans they wore. Much of Morro Bay is a state wildlife refuge. There is no public access to the rock itself because it is a reserve for the locally endangered peregrine falcon. A number of restaurants, shops and parks line the Embarcadero and shoreline. The combination of tourist-oriented businesses with a working fishing port and the dominant presence of Morro Rock makes for an attractive waterfront for visitors. We did a walking tour of the historical district of downtown San Luis Obispo with Steve Akers, owner of SLO Walking Tours. The city has a population of about 45,000 and began in 1772 with the Mission SLO de Tolosa built as the fifth mission (out of 21) by Father Junipero Serra. By the way, his statue sits in front of all the missions. I got a chance to see the inside of the Fremont Theater with its Art Deco 1940’s style. It still plays first run movies. Sort of a junior version of Radio City Music Hall. I was really fascinated by Bubble. Started in the 1960’s by high school students leaving their bubblegum along the walls, it is now a tourist attraction. My last meal was at Old Edna’s where owner Petia Torrence showed me a painting of the topless Miss Edna who was rumored to be a prostitute that greeted men getting off the railroad where Old Edna now stands. This was also a tasting of unique & emerging varietals in the Edna Valley & Arroyo Grande AVAs. Attending were: Claiborne & Churchill, Sausalito Winery, Sextant, Tangent & Trenza. I asked if any of the wineries did a topless bottling. Don’t wait for the answer!

It took me less than 4 hours to get back to LA and dinner with Geoff & Tara. Also, another trip to Yogurtland. The next morning I returned my wonderful PT Cruiser Convertible and I was homeward bound. On both my trips, three months apart, I had great weather, never got stuck in traffic and tasted wines that would make Napa & Sonoma take notice.

For More Information-

www.herzogwinecellars.com

www.visitoxnard.com

www.heritagesquareoxnard.com

www.channelislandsharbor.org

www.embassysuites.hilton.com/mandalay

www.ventura-usa.com

www.weaverwines.com

www.paradisepantry.com

www.jonathansatpeiranos.com

www.rvcellars.com

www.oldcreekranch.com

www.santabarbaraca.com

www.sbtrolley.com

www.sbramada.com

www.downeyssb.com

www.pierrelafond.com

www.stellamares.com

www.santaynezvalleyvisit.com

www.sbcountywines.com

www.hadstenhouse.com

www.crackedcrab.com

www.classiccalifornia.com

www.pismocoastvillage.com

www.pismobeach.org

www.madonnainn.com

www.tolosawinery.com

www.ciopinotrestaurant.com

www.morrobay.org

www.slowwalkingtours.com

www.oldedna.com

www.slowine.com

www.root-246.com

www.splashcafe.com

www.chumashcasino.com

www.solvangusa.com

www.nps.gov/chis

www.venturaharborvillage.com

www.capistranos.com

Return to Summer Camp: My Visit to Glens Falls, Lake George & Saratoga

In the late 1940’s I went to summer camp on Trout Lake in upstate New York. My younger brother Michael joined me, and my mother served as camp mother for one summer. My last summer I was a counselor and the horseback-riding instructor. While going through boxes of old photographs I found two of my bunk mates and myself. My folks used to stay at the Sagamore Hotel in Bolton Landing when they came to visit us. I had not been back since then so jumped at the opportunity to visit Glens Falls, Lake George, Bolton Landing and Saratoga in early summer. The camp is gone, replaced by a resort but the Sagamore is still going strong. On a Sunday morning in late June it took me about 4 hours to reach Glens Falls where I met my Warren County host for lunch at the Rock Hill Cafe.

The population of Glens Falls is around 15,000. The name is taken from a large waterfall in the Hudson River, located at the southern border of the city. Glens Falls is located in the southeast corner of Warren County, surrounded by the town of Queensbury to the north, east, and west as well as by the Hudson River and Saratoga County to the south. Glens Falls is known as "Hometown U.S.A." The city has also referred to itself as the "Empire City." Glens Falls has two historic districts and 161 locations listed on the National Register of Historic Places and the New York State Register of Historic places. The Fredella Avenue historic district includes a series of unique concrete block structures. The Three Squares Historic District comprises the majority of the Central Business District. Included in that area are: DeLong House – Presently the home of the Glens Falls/Queensbury Historical Association and the Chapman Historical Museum. Juliet Chapman of the DeLong family donated this restored Victorian home to the city in 1968. The nearby Glens Falls Civic Center opened in 1979 and hosts sports and entertainment events. There is an arena for sporting events (4,800 permanent arena seats), concerts (7,800 capacity), family activities, dance, theater and trade shows as well as banquet facilities. I drove a hundred yards to Cooper’s Cave Outlook, made famous in James Fennimore Cooper’s novel, The Last of the Mohicans. I was staying two nights at the Queensbury Hotel, a Victorian style property with 125 rooms. I was the only person using the indoor pool and whirlpool, which relaxed me for my 3-block walk back to the downtown district and dinner at Davidson Brothers Restaurant & Brewery.

I spent the next day in the Lake George area, nicknamed the Queen of American Lakes. It is a long, narrow lake draining northwards into Lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence River basin located at the southeast base of the Adirondack Mountains. The lake extends about 32.2 miles, is quite deep (up to 200 feet) and varies from 1 to 3 miles in width. Although the year-round population of the Lake George region is relatively small, the summertime population can swell to over 50,000 residents, especially in the Lake George village region on the south end of the lake. Lake George is home to 165 islands and 230 satellite islands, most of them state owned. Conveniently situated on the rail line halfway between New York City and Montreal, the lake became a magnet for the era's rich and famous in the late 19th and early 20th century. By the turn of the 19th century, only Newport, Bar Harbor, Maine, Saratoga and the Hamptons equaled Lake George as a summer enclave for America's aristocracy. The Fort William Henry Hotel, in what is now Lake George Village, and The Sagamore in Bolton Landing, served their wealthy clientele. By the 1950s, with the advent of affordable auto and air travel, Lake George became more attractive to the growing middle class and less so to the "jet set". Most of the mansions of Millionaire's Row along the lake were torn down or turned into hotels and restaurants.

Outside of town are 4 small outlet centers and I managed to find several bargains. It was then to Prospect Mountain Veterans Memorial Highway and its 100-mile view. The 5 1/2 mile highway reaches over 2,000 feet with a mini-bus taking us to the top. There are spectacular views of Vermont’s Green Mountains, New Hampshire’s White Mountains and New York’s Adirondack Mountains. You can see most of Lake George from the summit. First stop in Lake George was the new Information Center at the corner of Canada Street and Beach Road. I like to think of it as 42nd Street & Broadway in NYC. The parking meters also reminded me of New York City with almost no free parking. I drove through Battlefield Park checking out the historical markers. After finding an available meter I walked along the shoreline on Beach Road and picked up my ticket for that night's Lake George Steamboat Company 2 1/4-hour dinner cruise aboard the Lac du St. Sacrement. I was having lunch at the Adirondack Pub & Brewery with the owner John Carr, and they did offer free parking.  He allowed me to park at his other not yet opened restaurant and pointed me to the Adirondack Winery & Tasting room where co-owner Michael Pardy showed me his micro-winery that offers hand-crafted wines made on premises. His wife Sasha took all the photographs for the labels. I found her work some of the most beautiful I have ever seen. All were scenes at and around the Lake George area.

I then drove a half-hour into Bolton Landing to see the Sagamore Hotel. No parking meters and two hour free parking; a much more laid back town. The Sagamore was under construction and I wondered if the guests minded sharing their stay with equipment, mud, rocks, dirt and noise. I hope all this work will renew the Grande Dame as I remembered her. I also wish I had the time to visit the Marcella Sembrich Opera Museum, her former summer estate. Having an hour before my 6:30 cruise departure I parked at the Fort William Henry Museum, a restored colonial fortress from the French & Indian War, and walked down their stairs to my awaiting boat. Luckily, the weather cooperated and I spent the first hour on the top deck. The dinner buffet offered cordial service, followed by music and narrated tour information.

The next morning I spent an hour at the Hyde Collection Art Museum with museum director David Setford giving me a private tour. What a revelation to find a collection of old European and modern masters, American artists, decorative arts and furnishings in such a small town. El Greco, Degas, Renoir, Picasso etc. Don’t miss the museum.

It was less than an hour's drive to Saratoga Springs where I met Greg Dixon at the Chamber of Commerce offices. We walked from there to the main drag- Broadway and lunch at the Circus Café. Across the street was Putnam Wine where I spent an enjoyable half-hour talking to owner William Roach. He and his wife also own the adjacent Putnam Gourmet Market. I was staying at the 1873 9-room High Victoria Batcheller Mansion Inn directly across from Congress Park and its renovated wooden Carousel.

Saratoga Spa State Park has over 2,000 acres of parkland.  It features mineral springs, reflecting pools, an automobile museum, a hotel, a spa, a golf course and the Saratoga Performing Arts Center. This outdoor performing arts venue features classical performances, the Saratoga Jazz Festival, the Saratoga Wine and Food Festival and major pop and rock concerts.  It is the summer home of the New York City Ballet and The Philadelphia Orchestra. With 18 naturally occurring mineral springs in Saratoga, you can "take the cure" as visitors did during the Victorian age.  The first major attractions in Saratoga, these springs still flow throughout the area.  The city is often called “Spa City.” It was pouring rain but Richard Selikoff, director of development, kept the Saratoga Automobile Museum open awaiting my arrival. The mission of the Saratoga Automobile Museum is to preserve, interpret and exhibit automobiles and automotive artifacts. My mineral bath appointment was at Roosevelt Baths & Spa, also in the park, where I soaked for almost one hour in a private room. I could not believe the price was only $25. I was floating on air as I returned to downtown and my dinner at Wheatfield’s. Established in 1988 they make 20 shapes and flavors of pasta daily.

On my way back to NYC I first stopped at the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame located opposite the Race Course. As one of America’s oldest sports, Thoroughbred Racing has a long and rich history. To tell the story of the sport, the museum relies on a renowned equine art collection, stunning trophies, beautiful silks, and thoroughbred memorabilia. Also known as Saratoga Racetrack or "the flat track", Saratoga Race Course is the oldest continually operating Thoroughbred horseracing track in the United States (1863). The track is home to the Travers Stakes, "America's Mid-Summer Derby" which occurs in late August. I did not visit Saratoga Gaming and Raceway that has over 1,700 video gaming machines, harness racing and a nightclub.

The Battles of Saratoga actually took place 15 miles southeast in Stillwater, between September 19 and October 7, 1777, and was considered among the 15 most decisive battles in world history. It conclusively decided the fate of British General John Burgoyne's army in the American Revolutionary War. Burgoyne won a small tactical victory over General Horatio Gates and the Continental Army in the September 19 Battle of Freeman's Farm at the cost of significant casualties. His gains were erased when he again attacked the Americans in the October 7 Battle of Bemis Heights and the Americans captured a portion of the British defenses. Burgoyne was forced to surrender on October 17. This led France to recognize the independence of the United States and enter the war as an ally of the Americas. The 3,600-acre Battlefield is the largest of three sites making up Saratoga National Park. The Visitor Center has a 20-minute film about the battle and a small museum with artifact exhibits. There is a 10-mile self-guided driving tour, as well as a bicycle path & jogging trails. Schuyler House is the restored country house of American General Philip Schuyler and is located approximately 7 miles north of the Battlefield. Saratoga Monument, a 155-foot obelisk commemorating the American victory after the Battles of Saratoga, is located approximately 7 1/2 miles north of the Battlefield.

I was back in my apartment in a little over 3 1/2 hours with a renewed sense of history and the realization that upstate New York has a lot to offer visitors and residents alike.

For More Information:

www.cityofglenfalls.com
www.glenfallsonline.com
www.glenfallscc.com
www.queensburyhotel.com
www.rockhillbakehouse.com
www.davidsonbrothers.com
www.chapmamuseum.org
www.visitlakegeorge.com
www.lakegeorge.com
www.thesagamore.com
www.operamuseum.org
www.fwhmuseum.com
www.adkpub.com
www.adirondackwinery.com
www.lakegeorgesteamboatcompany.com
www.hydecollection.org
www.saratoga.org
www.batchellermansion.com
www.putnammarket.com
www.putnamwine.com
www.saratogaautomuseum.org
www.rooseveltbathsandspa.com
www.wheatfields.com
www.racingmuseum.org
www.nyra.com
www.nps.gov/sara

daVinci Saved My Life

“Leonardo's robot refers to a humanoid automaton designed by Leonardo da Vinci around the year 1495. The design notes for the robot appear in sketchbooks that were rediscovered in the 1950s. It is not known whether or not an attempt was made to build the device. The robot is a warrior, clad in German-Italian medieval armor that is apparently able to make several human-like motions. These motions included sitting up, moving its arms, neck, and an anatomically correct jaw.”

For several years I have not been producing blood, in fact I have been slowly loosing blood and about two years ago I fainted, luckily at home, and the emergency room doctors at St. Luke’s-Roosevelt Hospital found I only had 2 pints of blood in my system (6-7 is normal). After receiving a transfusion and three pints of blood I felt fine, for a few months. I was always tired, even after walking less than a block. My teaching and writing did not seem to be effected but I started using a cane & rested more often. I saw half a dozen specialists who poked and tested every part of my body. My hematologist, Dr. Elizabeth Beautyman discovered a lack of iron in my body and I began taking high doses of iron three times a day. She also took my blood every few weeks and my hemoglobin moved up and down the scale from 13.1 to 8.8. At age 74 mine should be 12.4-14.9. I think it was about 6 before my blood transfusion. When it dropped below 11 she gave me an injection of Procrit, which is a glycoprotein. It works by stimulating the bone marrow to produce more red blood cells. She also determined I was anemic which is either caused by a decrease in production of red blood cell or hemoglobin, or by a loss or destruction of blood.

Move forward to early 2009 and Dr. Beautyman told me she had exhausted all her options and recommended I see a gastroenterologist. Both she and my primary doctor for the past 25 years (and one of New York Magazine’s top doctors) Richard Fried suggested I see Dr. James Lax. Dr. Lax performed an endoscopy, a procedure where a camera is placed through the mouth and into the stomach. The endoscopy demonstrated a condition known as a paraesophageal hernia. This is a condition where a portion of the stomach was sliding up into the chest, which caused chronic irritation and bleeding. As this condition not only was the source of the bleeding but could also progress into a much more dangerous situation, Dr. Fried recommended I see a surgeon- Dr. Scott Belsley. When I first saw Dr. Belsley I remarked that I preferred my doctors with gray, or no hair. He informed me that his field is ever evolving and younger is better (he is 35). The operation consisted of pulling the portion of the stomach that had herniated through the diaphragm and into the chest and putting it back to where it belongs in the abdomen. The hole in the diaphragm (where the hernia was located) was then closed using a piece of irradiated mesh harvested from the muscle of cadavers.

Scott Fisher at National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) and Joseph Rosed, MD (Department of Plastic Surgery, Stanford University) in the mid to late 1980’s developed the earliest conceptions of surgical robots. The da Vinci System enables surgeons to perform even the most complex and delicate procedures through very small incisions. The robotic joints move in a manner not only better than laparoscopic instruments but actually better than the human wrist. A variety of disorders, which affect the esophagus and hernias, are treated at St. Luke’s – Roosevelt Hospital with robotic technology. Instead of large cuts through the chest wall, these smaller incisions allow quicker post-operative recovery, are less painful for the patient, and do not compromise lung function. Patients' hospital stay is decreased to 1-2 days (mine was 1 1/2 days) and they are able to return to full activity within 2 weeks after surgery. Intuitive Surgical was founded in 1995 and had their IPO in 2000. At present the stock is listed on Nasdaq & is currently trading around $167.00.  2008 sales were $875 million, up 46% from 2007 and profits were $311 million, up 50% from 2007. As of April 2009 there are 1,171 daVinci systems in use worldwide.

www.Laparoscopic.MD is the New York surgical home page and information portal for Scott J. Belsley, MD, FACS.  Dr. Belsley is board-certified by the American Board of Surgery and specializes in minimally invasive surgery. He is a Columbia University Assistant Clinical Professor of Surgery, a fellow of the American College of Surgeons and a fellow of the Royal Society of Medicine.  Dr. Belsley is Director of Robotic Surgery at St. Luke's - Roosevelt Hospital in New York City.  “I specialize in minimally invasive surgical approaches to bariatrics and disorders of the gastroesophageal junction… I have written many book chapters and papers on the novel use of robotic technology but defer to your editor for any aggrandizing.”

I am writing this a few days after my operation.  I have almost no pain and am gradually regaining my strength. My Urologist, Dr. David Weiner, solved my one problem- constant urination by placing a Foley catheter into your bladder. I had urinary retention where over a liter of urine was collected from your bladder. Only soft mushy food, no alcohol, no heavy lifting and only short walks have led to a new concept for me- relaxing.  Yes, I am bored, but every time I think of the alternative I thank my luck stars I had Dr. Belsley and his whole staff at St. Luke’s-Roosevelt on my side (and in them!).

Then & Now, or the "I Remember When" Memories

My Return to the Catskills  

In 1952, the summer between high school and my freshman year at Columbia College, I worked at Kutsher’s Country Club in Monticello along with Wilt Chamberlain & Clyde Lovellette, both All-American basketball players. Growing up my father took me to many conventions and vacations at Grossingers, The Concord and Kutsher’s. I returned several times to Kutsher’s for its sports academy & Maurice Stokes' basketball game. I had accumulated a credit with a barter agency and was looking for somewhere to spend my credit. I saw that The Inn at Lake Joseph in Forestburgh was offering a 3 night mid-week barter deal and I accepted the credit. I invited my friend & former talk show host Sally Jessy Raphael and her husband Karl to be my guest. This 15-room Victorian country mansion shares a 250-acre private lake with kayaks, a large outdoor pool, billiard table, table tennis and cooked to order breakfast. The rooms were large and very comfortable with working fireplaces and whirlpool baths. This is the story of joy and sadness, all in a four-day trip.

First the depressing part. Monticello is a village of fewer than 8,000 permanent residents that is the county seat of Sullivan County (80,000 people).  It sits just off Route 17, the Quickway (before the Thruway was built) and is only 1 1/2 hours from New York City. The main street Broadway is torn up and most of the stores are empty. The one saving grace is Monticello Raceway, which is now a Racino with electronic slot machines, horse racing and an excellent buffet. The night we ate there it was Senior Citizen Tuesday with a price of $12.95. I visited the “Borscht Belt” and its hotels and bungalow colonies during its heyday (1940-1970) to see Jerry Lewis, Henny Youngman, Don Rickles, Buddy Hackett, Robert Klein, Steve & Eydie and many more entertainers. The only thing left of the “Big 3” hotels are their golf courses. Kutsher’s Country Club was especially sad for me to revisit. I think there were 4 guests staying there and the magnificent dining room I used to eat in was closed. Better news awaited when we traveled to the western part of the county two days later.

One of Sally & Karl’s hobbies is fly fishing so the nice folks at Sullivan County Visitors Association booked us at the Catskill Fly Fishing Center & Museum in Livingston Manor. It turns out that everyone there remembered Sally and she was even in one of their promotional videos. This was the birthplace of dry fly fishing in America. Who knew that fishing was the #1 sport in the US? We stopped in Livingston Manor at the Catskill Art Society & Hurleyville at the Sullivan County Historical Society & Sullivan County Museum. Nearby Roscoe is called “Trout Town USA.” We picked up some great bargains at Memories, an antique store featuring my favorite words- “50% off.” We wished we had time to stop at Stagedoor Manor in Lock Sheldrake. It offers total theater immersion plus all the fun of a summer camp. Stagedoor alumni include: Natalie Portman, Zack Braff, Robert Downey Jr. and Mandy Moore.

Dinner was at Mr. Willy’s, one of the best restaurants in Monticello. We only had a 15-minute drive to the Forestburgh Playhouse that ran a very professional summer performance schedule. We saw All Shook Up, a musical inspired by and featuring the songs of Elvis Presley (no impersonators). Most of the cast were university drama majors who performed at every show. Think of the minor leagues of baseball, except these performers batted 1,000. A cabaret show next door featured many of the cast members performing musical numbers from the ‘50s & ‘60s.

Day three was spent heading toward the western part of the county and was, for me, nirvana. First stop was at Ferndale Antiques where I continued my buying spree. We were driving north through Liberty and then west where we stopped in Jeffersonville for what else: shopping. Located near Bethel Woods Center for the Arts, the Woodstock Museum and the Delaware River, the Jeffersonville area is home to the newly rebuilt Villa Roma Resort. It is very kid friendly with bumper boats, horseback riding, rock walls, go carts, bowling and lots of water sports. They spent money to upgrade and the full house shows they were smart.

I could have spent hours more at the Bethel Woods Center For The Arts Museum. The Center is a state-of-the-art performing arts center located at the site of the 1969 Woodstock Festival in Bethel, New York. Beginning in 1996 the original festival field and 1,700 surrounding acres was purchased. Bethel Woods is a multi-venue performing arts complex that can accommodate 15,000 fans at the main outdoor concert pavilion. Performers include: Bob Dylan, Willie nelson, The Allman Brothers, Heroes of Woodstock and The Dave Matthews band. A museum and event gallery opened in 2008 dedicated to the legacy of the 1969 Woodstock Festival and the decade it concluded. The interactive exhibits consist of audio/visual experiences, informative displays, and a collection of artifacts, and the permanent exhibits include: The Sixties, The Woodstock Festival, The Journey to Woodstock, Three Days of Peace and Music—Film, Legacies of the 1960s and Woodstock. Dinner was at 1906 Restaurant & Steak House in Callicoon, another small town bordering the Delaware River & Pennsylvania. The restaurant was a Wine Spectator Award Winner for their impressive wine list. We had been out and about for almost 12 hours and we were ready for bed.

On the way home we spent an hour at the Wurtsboro Airport. It is believed to be the oldest operating soaring center in the nation. Privately owned, they offer glider, power, scenic and antique biplane rides. Yes, there was sadness for what had been and was but a memory. But there was also happiness at discovering new places to stay, shop and visit. Would I come back- try inviting me?

For More Information-
www.scva.net
www.lakejoseph.com
www.monticellogamingandraceway.com
www.kutshers.com
www.cffcm.net
www.livingstonmanor.org
www.roscoe.com
www.mrwillys.com
www.fbplayhouse.com
www.ferndaleantiques.net
www.themuseumatbethelwoods.org
www.bethelwoodscenter.org
www.jeffersonvilleny.com
www.1906restaurant.com
www.wurtsborosairport.com
www.sullivanccountyhistory.org

Cincinnati & The Civil Rights Baseball Game Weekend

Okay, I called this story Cincinnati (it took me a while to spell the city correctly with two N’s and one T) but when I landed (after a 90-minute flight from New York) we were across the river in Kentucky at the Cincinnati-Northern Kentucky International Airport, one of Delta Airline’s largest hubs. For my three day visit we crossed and re-crossed the Ohio River (owned by Kentucky) without paying a toll. As a New Yorker it is a big deal (and expensive) to cross over to New Jersey. The city itself has a population of over 360,000 making it the third largest city in Ohio behind Cleveland and Columbus, but the metropolitan area has a population surpassing 2.15 million. Coming from the airport my host stopped in Covington, Kentucky to show me the large collection of 19th century German architecture. The Over-the-Rhine area, in Cincinnati, is one of the largest historic districts listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Cincinnati has a German population second only to Milwaukee. Of course, I remember visiting Covington, Kentucky 40 years ago when its popularity was due to the “gangsta” days. Cincinnati had the first public outdoors drinking water fountains, the first pumper fire truck and the first paid fire department. The Guiding Light was the original soap opera and was broadcast live from 700WLW Radio Studios, sponsored by Ivory Soap (hence the name soap opera). I knew of the Seven Hills of Rome but who knew of the Seven Hills of Cincinnati?

The name Cincinnati is derived from the Society of the Cincinnati that honored General George Washington. The city is home to a large number of descendants of Revolutionary War soldiers who were granted land after the war ended. Henry Wadsworth Longfellow wrote a poem “Catawba Wine” and referred to the city as the “Queen City.” It is also often called “Porkopolis" because of its pork producing industry in the late 1800s. During the Civil War Cincinnati was part of the Union with Kentucky on the confederate side. This made the Ohio River the finish line to freedom for the slaves using the Underground Railroad system.

In 1869 the Cincinnati Red Stockings (today’s Reds) became the first professional baseball team in the country. The revitalization of the downtown waterfront area includes Paul Brown Stadium, opened in 2000 for the football Bengals, and the Great American Ball Park, opened in 2003 for the Reds. The area between the two stadiums is known as “The Banks” and when finished it will be a 24-hour urban neighborhood of residences, offices, restaurants, clubs, shops and parks with great views of the Ohio River. I stayed at the downtown Hilton Netherland Plaza Hotel that is part of the Carew Tower complex, one of the finest examples of French Art Deco construction in the world. Both were designed by the same architect and were developed to follow the Rockefeller Center mandate of a “city within a city.” The hotel opened in 1931 and is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places featuring 561 guestrooms. I had time to travel to the 49th floor Observation Deck of the Carew Tower (at the moment the tallest structure in town) for a breathtaking view of the city. The Art Deco-style Union Terminal still serves as an Amtrak stop but much of the building has been converted into the Museum Center, which includes the Omnimax Theater, the Children’s Museum, Natural History & Science, Museum, Cincinnati History, Cincinnati Historical Society Museums and multiple mega-size touring exhibits. The 180-foot-diameter half-dome structure is the largest in the Western Hemisphere.

Cincinnati is home to ten Fortune 500 Companies including: Proctor & Gamble, The Kroger Company, Macy’s Inc, Chiquita Brands International and my favorite- The Fifth Third Bank (were the other numbers taken?). Cincinnati hosts the longest running Culinary Arts Festival, the P&G Taste of Cincinnati as well as the largest Oktoberfest in the United States- Oktoberfest Zinzinnati. The first thing I did even before checking into my hotel was have lunch at the one and only Skyline Chili. I tried a Chili Cheese Coney, a hot dog topped with Skyline Chili, mustard, onions, and cheese, and a 3-way, spaghetti topped with Skyline Chili and cheese. I loved the cheese dog so much I had it again at the Reds Ball Park during the Civil Rights Game the next day. I walked from my hotel to Fountain Square, one of the cultural cornerstones of the city to see the Youth Baseball Summit Rally, which included baseball fast pitch and batting cages, live music and a parade to celebrate youth baseball. I took Oprah’s advice and tried Graeter’s Ice Cream, which she promoted as the best in the world with a store just off the square. It is made in a French pot process where each batch of ice cream is only about two gallons and is thus very labor intensive. The resulting ice cream is so thick that it must be hand-packed into pints (yummy). I also tried the “to die for” waffles at Findlay’s Market, Ohio’s oldest continuously operating public market since 1852.

Lest you think all I ate was “on the run” food my dinner at the Hilton’s Orchids at the Palm Court restaurant (named the town’s number one restaurant by Cincinnati Magazine) was amazing. Executive Chef Todd Kelly prepared a 7-course meal and captain/sommelier Charles Redmond matched it with 7 wines. All that for only $100 per person. That meal would be double or triple that in New York. Luckily I was staying upstairs. I figured I could fly to Cincinnati, eat at the Orchid, spend the night at the Hilton, fly home to New York and still save money on a 4 star dining experience.

My last day I was taken to brunch at The Rookwood Restaurant (the Rookwood pottery making equipment is still there amongst the tables) overlooking the city on Mt. Adams (one of the Seven Hills and named after former President John Quincy Adams). The restaurant features the Findlay Market waffles and out-of the world omelets. Mt. Adams’ landmarks include the Cincinnati Art Museum, Krohn Conservatory, Playhouse in the Park, Holy Cross Monastery and the Immaculata Church. Today, Mount Adams is popular among the 21+ age group for its assortment of bars and restaurants. We spent almost two hours at the yearly RiverSpan Sculpture Exhibition and Sale event on the Purple People Bridge with over 800 different works of art by 80 sculptures. It is a walking only purple bridge spanning the Ohio River. We entered the span from the Newport, Kentucky side adjacent to the Newport Aquarium and Newport on the Levee, a shopping, dining and entertainment area. We drove over the John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge, opened in 1866, that was the prototype for the Roebling designed Brooklyn Bridge.

The other purpose for my visit was the Civil Rights baseball game between the Cincinnati Reds and the Chicago White Sox. It pays tribute to efforts toward racial equality and diversity in baseball and society. This marks the first time that the game has been a regular season game and played at a major league ballpark (it is back in Cincinnati in 2010). There were several events leading up to the game including a round table discussion on Baseball and the Civil Rights Movement held at the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center. Opened in 2004, the center features exhibits dealing with the “Underground Railroads” and the fight for freedom worldwide. After the round table I had a chance to talk to Tony Perez, Baseball Hall of Famer and former Red player and manager as well as Oscar Robertson, the Big O, former Cincinnati Royal and Basketball Hall of Famer.

The Major League Beacon Awards Luncheon held at the Duke Energy Convention Center, a few blocks from my hotel, was an all-star event. Soledad O’Brien, CNN Special Correspondent and host of Black in America Part 1 & 2, was the Mistress of Ceremonies. The Keynote Speaker was William Jefferson Clinton, the 42nd President of the United States. His 45-minute speech was a mixture of scripted and off the cuff remarks and a lot of baseball references. The honorees included Hank Aaron whose Beacon of Life Award was presented by baseball commissioner Allan H. Selig. Until someone called him Bud most of the audience wondered who Allan Selig was. I felt so sad watching Muhammad Ali seemingly unable to even raise his arm as he received the Beacon of Change Award. Sugar Ray Leonard introduced him and Ali’s wife gave an eloquent acceptance speech. Bill Cosby, recipient of the Beacon of Hope Award, was his irascible self. Serious when he spoke of the responsibilities of African Americans males and a comedian when talking about his presenter Hall of Famer Bob Gibson. This was the first time Cosby returned to Cincinnati since he boycotted the city after the 2001 riots. President Clinton was out of there as soon as he received his check but the other three were at the baseball game and were honored once again. Before the game we toured the Cincinnati Reds Hall of Fame and Museum. Featured exhibits included the history of Negro League Baseball in the Queen City and a remembrance of the old Reds park- Crosley Field. I was told that few teams have a hall of fame but Hank Aaron mentioned to me that aside from Cincinnati, Atlanta was one of them. Do you hear that New York Yankees!!

Two days is not enough time to see all that Cincinnati USA has to offer. I wish I had another day in town. HINT

For More Information:
www.cincinnatiusa.com
www.nkycvb.com
www.cvgairport.com
www.cincinnatihilton.com
www.orchidsatpalmcourt.com
www.cincymuseum.org
www.myfountainsquare.com
www.freedomcenter.org
www.reds.com
www.reds.com/hof
www.newportaquarium.com
www.therookwood.com
www.bengals.com
www.newportonthelevee.com
www.findlaymarket.org
www.graeters.com
www.skylinechili.com
www.riverspansculpture.org

Wining, Dining & Touring in California’s Central Coast

In the past few years I have traveled to and written about Sonoma, Napa, Livermore and San Mateo, all reachable through San Francisco. Most recently I spent a week south of the San Francisco airport. My first stop was San Jose, followed by Santa Cruz, Gilroy, Monterey/Carmel, Paso Robles and Hearst Castle. On my next trip I will start in Los Angeles and travel to Oxnard, Ventura, Santa Barbara, Solvang, Buellton, Santa Maria, Santa Ynez Valley & San Luis Obispo, thus completing my central Coast odyssey.  This story will deal with the wine portion of that trip with a bit of tourism information for those few hours when you will not be thinking about wine and food. First I will try to explain exactly what constitutes The Central Coast.

According to Appellationamerica.com- an appellation is a wine growing region with officially recognized boundaries. Appellation designations are required on wine labels to identify the origin of the grapes used in making the wine. Vineyard locations rather than winery locations determine appellation. There are two classes of appellations- political boundaries (states, provinces and counties) and appellations defined by geographic boundaries based on topography, climate and soil types. These geographically based appellations are known as American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). It’s about the terroir. The concept of terroir is at the base of the French wine Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) system that has been the model for appellation and wine laws across the globe. At its core is the assumption that the land from which the grapes are grown imparts a unique quality that is specific to that region. The US has 194 AVAs in 25 states and California has 108 of those. The Central Coast region I visited has 29 in 7 counties and encompasses vineyards from San Francisco to Santa Barbara and all that lies between. My trip reached as far as Paso Robles, which is 122 miles from Santa Barbara. There are about 100,000 acres under vine in the Central Coast. The appellation was granted based on the shared cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean. There are presently over 2,800 commercial wineries in California with 622 wineries utilizing the Central Coast designation. What I immediately learned was that some of the finest producers don’t have tasting rooms and you can visit only by appointment. Conversely, a great many of the wineries I visited sell only from a tasting room and have very small production. If an AVA is listed on a wine label at least 85% of the grapes used to make that wine must have been grown in that AVA. There are over 55 grape varieties grown in the Central Coast region with Syrah, Chardonnay (largest), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Zinfandel and Viognier the main choices.

My trip itself was a whirlwind of activity and discovery. Even though air travel is no longer much fun, going Business Class on a 6-hour flight sure beats the alternative. I used the Delta Lounge at JFK, ate actual food and watched movies & live TV. You even get 2 bags checked free and all for 45,000 frequent flier mileage. The Internet really worked for me in researching a weekly car rental. I don't tend to plug service vendors but $200 with all taxes for a PT Cruiser (I loved that car) was a bargain. In less than an hour I was at the San Jose Marriott where they gave me access to the Concierge Lounge with a free computer, breakfast and a great view from the 26th floor. The Winchester Mystery House Mansion Tour was not my cup of tea. It didn’t help that it was 98 degrees outside and up to 120 inside the 160-room former home of the widow to the Winchester Rifle company. The younger kids might not enjoy the history lesson but teenagers and adults who are into haunted houses or bizarre architecture might like it. The good thing is they allowed me to park there for the evening and I walked a block to Santana Row, a Mediterranean-style retail and entertainment district filled with trendy eateries (their words), fashion boutiques and bars. There are 70 shops and 20 restaurants. It seemed perfect for the Silicon Valley crowd that appeared to fill every place. I spent an hour at Vintage Wine Merchants at Santana Row and their sister operation Vintage Wine Bar. Their artisanal cheese & charcuterie plates complimented the 25 wines by the glass. A block away was my dinner at Village California Bistro & Wine Bar, with artisan seasonal ingredients & 400 wines, including 85 1/2 bottles (a great idea for the solo or couple diners). The next morning I opened the Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum, located inside the gardens of Rosicrucian Park. They boast the largest display of Egyptian artifacts in the western U.S.  The Tech Museum of Innovation was inspired by its Silicon Valley location and is great for kids. Over 80,000 school kids come here every year for its 250 interactive exhibits and the IMAX theatre. Then it was lunch at the Arcadia Restaurant (a Michael Mina operation) back in the Marriott. Since the convention center is next door and there was nothing going on that day the restaurant was empty, except for our table located in the Wine Room. They carry 220 wines.

My wine adventure began in Santa Cruz, 30 miles southwest of San Jose. I spent the night at a charming B&B called the Adobe on Green Street, only a few blocks from the center of town. Pacific Avenue is a pedestrian-friendly district with art galleries, outdoor cafes and shops all anchored by the clock tower dating from 1900. Vacationers have been drawn to Santa Cruz since the 1800’s. The century-old Beach Boardwalk is home to two National Historic Landmarks. It features the West Coast’s oldest seaside amusement park. The Giant Dipper is a vintage wooden roller coaster that is 85 years old. The Carousel, built in 1911, features 73 hand-carved horses. The Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, located in a lighthouse, pays homage to Olympian Duke Kahanamoku’s visit in 1912. I watched the surfers ride the waves at Steamer Lane. My first wine stop was on the Wharf at Vino Prima Wine Bar that features California only wines by the glass, bottle or flight. There is Thrifty Tuesday with a buy one glass of wine, get one free plus 2 hours of free parking. The wharf stretches 1/2 mile into Monterey Bay and is lined with fish markets, restaurants and gift shops. I was off to meet one of my favorite wine people- Randall Grahm, owner of Bonny Doon Winery. He had recently sold his mountain winery & several of his high volume labels to concentrate on his small production wines. His new tasting room is right outside of downtown and we talked about his upcoming book (September) called- Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology. Dinner was at Crows Nest, along the waterfront on Monterey Bay Marine Sanctuary, which stretches 276 miles and is a federally protected marine area. The next morning I walked to downtown Santa Cruz & Vinocruz Wine Tasting Room. They house a selection of over 200 wines made by more than 65 wineries, all within the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA. Another 2 block walk and lunch was at Center Street Grill. On my way out of town I stopped at Bargetto Winery in Soquel, the longest continuously operated winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains, celebrating their 76th anniversary. They still produce a line of dessert wines under the Chaucer label that I have enjoyed for years. I discovered their La Vita (the life) a blend of Dolcetto, Nebbiolo and Refosco.

An hour's drive up scenic (windy & scary) Route 152 (Hecker Pass Highway) and I arrived in Gilroy, the southernmost city in Santa Clara County. Along with the city of Morgan Hill there are 21 boutique wineries with almost all of the sales coming from tasting room visitors. I visited Sarah’s Vineyard, Solis Winery, Clos La Chance, Jason-Stephens Winery & Kirigin Cellars in my afternoon and morning in the area. Gilroy is known for its Garlic Festival that takes place in late July and is in its 31st year. I even had a chance to taste garlic ice cream (don’t ask). Its nickname as the Garlic Capital of the World comes from the fact that Gilroy Foods processes more garlic than any other factory in the world; most pickled, minced, and powdered garlic come from Gilroy. The Gilroy Gardens Family Theme Park is a living, natural place where the 40 rides and attractions come alive in a setting of majestic waterfalls, lush gardens and astounding (I have never seen anything like them) circus trees. It is California’s only horticultural theme park. The West Side Grill was touted as the best restaurant in Gilroy and I was not disappointed.  I stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn, which was only 1 minute from Interstate 101, which would lead me to my next stop- Monterey.

In an hour I was meeting Rhonda Motil, Executive Director of the Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association for lunch at the C Restaurant at the InterContinental Clement Hotel on Cannery Row in Monterey. John Steinbeck’s 1945 novel Cannery Row has now evolved to 30 restaurants, clubs and pubs, plus hundreds of shops. Nearby Fisherman’s Wharf is a family-friendly collection of waterside restaurants. Rhonda did an overview of Monterey County wines and their 9 AVA’s. It is the cooling effect of Monterey Bay, one of the deepest bays in the world, the long growing season and that legendary fog that account for the great wines of Monterey. There are over 40,000 acres of vines (translates to 150 vineyards) and nearly 30 tasting rooms between Cannery Row, Carmel-by-the-Sea, River Road and the Carmel Valley. There are 65 wineries in the county, many specializing in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (see the paragraph below for a list of winery/tasting rooms visited). We walked across the street to the Scheid Tasting Room. Who knew that Scheid is one of the largest independent growers of premium wine grapes for over 100 wineries? I relaxed in their stylish lounge and comfy chairs while discussing the truism that great wine begins in the vineyards. Back across the street is the Taste of Monterey Wine Shop with over 85 Monterey wineries for sale. This time it was two blocks to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, voted the #1 in the US by Zagat.

Big Sur is located approximately 30 miles south of Monterey via Highway 1 but don’t think it will take you a half hour. The road zigs and zags and you better hold on to the steering wheel with both hands. I stopped at least 6 times at overlooks to take in the beauty of the cliffs, water and animal life. I do not recommend this drive at night. It is wild and rugged and maybe the world’s most beautiful drive. Highway 1 is California’s first designated Scenic Highway. There are no towns in Big Sur but an assemblage of resorts, restaurants, lodges, campgrounds, art galleries and natural hot springs. I was about to spend the evening 1,200 feet above the Pacific Ocean at the Post Ranch Inn, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. There are 40 guest rooms and all are designed with a rustic luxurious elegance. Besides my king size bed there was a wood-burning fireplace (it gets cold at night, even in the summer), an indoor spa tub and a private terrace with whirlpool; no TV’s or internet for maximum relaxation, though there is a TV & computer in the library. Dinner was at the Sierra Mar Restaurant where my table overlooked the cliff and ocean. The four-course prix fixe menu is $105, plus beverages, tax & tip. But if one can afford the room rates, which start at $550, why worry about dinner prices (breakfast is included in the room rate)? The restaurant held a Wine Spectator Grand Award from 1993 to 2005 (2,700 selections) when ownership of the restaurant changed to the operators of the inn. They have reapplied for the award this year. 

 

Next it was back the 30 miles into Carmel, and this time I did not stop. I visited several tasting rooms and wineries including: Taste Morgan, Chateau Julien Wine Estates, Heller Estate Organic Vineyards & Winery, Boekenoogen Vineyard & Winery Tasting Room and Parsonage Village Vineyards with lunch (with the winemaker) at the Wickets Bistro at Bernardus Lodge (down the road for the winery of the same name).  L’Auberge Carmel in downtown Carmel-by-the-Sea is a luxury 20-room inn built in 1929 and is located 4 blocks from the beach. As luck would have it I arrived in time for their monthly wine and food dinner. This time the entire meal used vegetables in every course. The 4,500-bottle wine cellar was used to match each course with a wine. I had time to walk 2 blocks to the Ocean Avenue, the main street of the town that is the home to 45 inns and a mecca for artists and writers. There are no fast food restaurants, neon signs or parking meters in town. Remember Clint Eastwood was once the mayor. He “made my day.”

 

One does not come to this part of California without taking the famous Pebble Beach 17 Mile Drive. It was very early and there was little traffic as I once again stopped at most of the viewing points watching golfers hit over and around the water and walking around the Pebble Beach Lodge. I was off to Paso Robles, about a two-hour drive along Highway 101; not narrow curves & hair-raising turns, just a normal California road. On the way I stopped in Salinas, the lettuce bowl of the world, to visit Pessagno Winery in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. A few miles south is Soledad located in one of the premiere wine grape growing regions of California with over twenty vineyards and wineries within a thirty-mile radius. I stopped at Hahn Estates/Smith & Hook, Chalone Vineyard & Paraiso Vineyards.

In an hour I was at my hotel in Paso Robles, the La Bellasera Inn. A suggestion on behalf of visitors to the city fathers: add better road signs! Who knew that Route 46 East & Route 46 West were different exits? I just assumed that one side of the road went east and the other west. Wrong! -and that is why I initially had trouble finding wineries that were on different parts of the same road. There are over 26,000 vineyard acres and almost 170 wineries in the Paso Robles area. I didn’t travel farther south into the rest of San Luis Obispo county which is the 3rd largest wine producing county in California with more than 200 wineries. That will be on the menu for my next story when I travel north from Los Angeles. I visited Peachy Canyon Winery, Turley Wine Cellars, Tablas Creek Vineyard, Zenaida Cellars, Lone Madrone, Eberle Winery, Meridian Vineyards and Eagle Castle Wine Cellar (shaped like a giant European castle). It was easy finding downtown Paso Robles as well as my dinner at Artisan Restaurant with the couple that founded First Crush. They explained that it is the perfect weekend blend of fun, work, relaxation and a luxurious wine making safari. First Crush winemaking experience will take aspiring winemakers into a Paso Robles vineyard where they will harvest your own wine grapes. They will crush and de-stem their fruit and then have numerous opportunities to participate in its transformation into a custom-made, privately labeled wine.

In less than an hour I arrived at Hearst Castle. Had I gone directly from Monterey using Route 1 it would have been 90 miles of the most dramatic coastline in the US.  Tour 1 is recommended for first-time visitors as it provides a broad overview of the many facets of Hearst Castle and it is the least physically strenuous of the tours. Its duration is 1 hour and 45 minutes, which includes the bus ride to and from the castle. Tour 1 includes the companion movie, Hearst Castle Building the Dream, shown on the giant 5-story screen in the Hearst Castle Theater. Included are visits to the Esplanade & Gardens with their marble sculptures & flowers. Casa Del Sol is the 18-room guesthouse. The Neptune Pool (outdoors) and Roman Pool (indoors) are also included in the tour as is the Casa Grande or main house. Completed in 1947 (after 28 years of construction) William Randolph Hearst had created an estate of 165 rooms and 127 acres of gardens, terraces, pools and walkways. It is now known as the Hearst San Simeon State Historical Monument and is administrated as a state park.

 

In about 4 hours I was at San Francisco airport to overnight before returning to New York City. In 8 days I never had any traffic problems and the weather ranged from 98 degrees my first two days to the low 50’s during a few nights. I drove over 800 miles and did not have a single problem. Can you say that about your trip?

For Further Information:

www.centralcoast-tourism.com
www.gilroyvisitor.org
www.santacruzcounty.travel
www.hearstcastle.com
www.labellaserra.com
www.carmelcalifornia.org
www.tastemonterey.com
www.montereyinfo.org
www.montereybayaquarium.org
www.laubergecarmel.com
www.wineriesofsantaclaravalley.com
www.gilroygardens.org
www.vinocruz.com
www.vinoprima.biz
www.crowsnest-santacruz.com
www.thecenterstreetgrill.com
www.bonnydoonvineyard.com
www.adobeongreen.com
www.beachboardwalk.com
www.egyptianmuseum.org
www.scmwa.com
www.michaelmina.net/arcadia
www.intercontinental.com/montereyic
www.montereywines.org
www.canneryrow.com
www.thetech.org
www.winchestermysteryhouse.com
www.vintagewinemerchants.com
www.thevillagebistro.net
www.postranchinn.com
www.bernardus.com
www.pebblebeach.com
www.pasowine.com
www.artisanpasorobles.com
www.santanarow.com
www.sanjosemarriott.com
www.ccwga.org

Branson, Missouri: It’s Not All Country

Let's start with my impression of Branson before I arrived and compare it with my thoughts after spending 5 days there. Over 8 million visitors a year come to town and over 100 million live within a day's drive, though that is about to change; almost everyone drove as the then nearest (Springfield/Branson) airport is in Springfield Missouri, an hour’s drive.  I was invited to Branson for the opening of their new airport located 15 minutes from downtown Branson. This airport is privately owned, and it is thought to be the largest privately owned commercial airport in the United States.  Its construction involved flattening the tops of a series of Ozark Mountains.  The city is in the southwest corner of the state and not many people would visit except for the 50 theatres and 130 shows, though I am getting ahead of myself.  First we'll explore a bit of history first.

In the 1880’s Marvel Cave was opened and in 1907 Minister Harold Bell Wright wrote The Shepherd of the Hills about the Ozark Mountains and their people.  He was the first American author to sell 1 million books.  The opening of the hydroelectric Powersite Dam in 1913 along the White River created Lake Taneycomo (Taney County Missouri).  It was too cold for swimming but great for trout.  In 1950 Hugo Herschend leased the Marvel Cave and his widow and sons took over upon his death in 1955.  The cave has been designated a National Natural Landmark.  In 1960 they opened Silver Dollar City on the site of the cave. The park is an 1880’s themed experience that fits Branson's vision as a family-friendly vacation destination with down-home charm.  The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers completed Table Rock Dam on the White River in 1958, drawing many vacationers to the newly created Table Rock Lake.  In 1959 the Mabe Family created the Ozark’s Jubilee Music Show that became the Baldknobbers and was the first show in town.  The Presley family became the first to move their show to Highway 76 in 1967 (which would become known as the "strip"). In 1983, Roy Clark opened the Roy Clark Celebrity Theatre, becoming the first famous country music star to have his own venue in Branson.  Many of the performers who have played in Branson got their start at that venue.  In the 1980’s there were 16 shows and today there are 130.  There are also 12 golf courses.

How many shows could I see in my 4 1/2 day stay?  The kind folks at the Branson Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce and Convention & Visitors Bureau managed to get me to seven,  added several non-theatre experiences, get me fed and put me up at the Hilton Promenade Hotel located at Branson Landing shopping center and overlooking Lake Taneycomo.  Branson Landing (modeled after River Walk in San Antonio) is a $420 million public/private project with 450,000 square feet (85 acres) of waterfront shopping, dining and entertainment. The Water Fountain is synchronized to light, sound, music and fire. There are condos for rent and sale as well as a 1.5-mile boardwalk and marina.  Directly across the street from my Hilton Promenade is the Hilton Branson Convention Center.  My hosts arranged to pick me up, drop me off and pick me up after every experience.  In chronological order here is how I spent my time in Branson:

Day 1- I arrived at Springfield Missouri airport and was driven one hour to my hotel. There was no time to unpack because my first show Circle B Chuck wagon Theatre, included dinner and free popcorn. This was my only country & western experience as the audience watched Lone Ranger, Gene Autry and Roy Rogers movies to put us in the mood. The Horn family including father, mother, son, daughters and granddaughter as well as a few non-relatives, entertained us as the Riders of the Circle B in a very light-hearted cowboy music show.  I had an hour before the #1 Hits of the ‘60’s show began.  There were a lot of energetic young people who interacted with the audience.  I was called on stage to dance with them; audience participation is one of the keys to all their shows.  The performers meet with their audience at intermission and after the show, selling their CD’s, t-shirts, hats and books. This was one of my favorite shows although none of the performers were born until the 80’s.

Day 2- There is a free shuttle between the shops at Branson Landing & Historic Downtown (not that long a walk but it is uphill).  Everything in Branson seems to be uphill.  Rather than spend $15 for breakfast at the hotel I spent $6 for 3 giant pancakes.  I noticed the sky suddenly became VERY dark & the wind was really whipping up.  The lady next to me said, “It’s just a tornado coming our way. ” WOW!  I want to go look.  Her reply: “You are from out of town- right.  No one in Branson goes looking for a tornado!”  Then it was time for the 10 AM World Famous Platters Show.  Two of the members were Platter replacements.  I walked to lunch at Montana Mikes and it was the 2 PM ‘50’s At The Hop Show.  I love 50’s music but this young cast seemed bored; not one of my favorite shows.  I had rest time and spent an hour in the pool, whirlpool and exercise room.  The hotel had free wireless in the lobby (why charge for it in your room?) and I caught up with all my messages. Dinner was at Dick Clark’s American Bandstand Grill Restaurant.  Reasonably priced comfort food. Branson is not a haven for food & wine lovers.  The prices are very reasonable for both the shows (average about $30) and restaurants.  Wine is basically red, white & rose.  The basement of the Dick Clark Theatre has the 1957 Car Museum the world’s largest collection of 1957 cars and trucks.  I loved it.  The 8 PM Legends in Concert was upstairs & featured performers copying the style and looks of famous performers.  They change several times a year.  My show had a fabulous Blues Brothers & Rod Stewart.  Tina Turner, Elvis & Alan Jackson were also good (I had to ask who Alan Jackson was).

Day 3- A change of plans for the day.  I was driven about 45 minutes to the afore-mentioned Silver Dollar City Theme Park with 30 attractions & rides. There are 60 craft shops and 40 shows daily, plus 12 family friendly restaurants.   I finally saw people under 60 with lots of children.  At every show and event there was a salute to US veterans of all wars.  The American flag was raised at the opening of the park & the Pledge of Allegiance was recited.  On this third day I loved the difference between big cities and rural America.  After 3 hours I was ready to rest and chose to visit museums the rest of the day.  Veterans Memorial Museum honored our veterans from WWI to Desert Storm.  There is a bronze sculpture depicting a soldier from each of our 50 states.  The Roy Rogers/Dale Evans Museum had Roy Rogers Jr. performing.  The world’s largest Toy Museum holds the Harold Bell Wright Museum (the afore-mentioned author of The Shepherd of the Hills).  The 2-story Titanic Museum is a 1/2-scale replica of the ship.  There are 400 artifacts and one can actually touch an iceberg.  Dinner that night was at the Osmonds’ Family Theatre where for an additional $10 one gets a 3 course meal.  The Magnificent Variety Show features 7 decades of music and 300 (that is correct) costume changes.  Led by Joe & Tamra Tinoco it also included their 4-year daughter & a young, energetic cast.  This was another favorite of mine.  As mentioned before the cast talks to the audience during intermission and after the show. It makes everyone feel like family (are you reading this, Broadway?).

Day 4- It was the second day of the Branson Air show.  Although the droplets of rain were an inconvenience the sun came out just as the US Army Golden Knights parachuted presenting the colors.  There were vintage airplanes; aerobatic teams, a wing walk, pyrotechnics and finally the USAF Thunderbirds closed the show.  Famous Dave’s BBQ was served in the VIP tent and was so filling I skipped dinner.  I was given a tour of Branson & the surrounding area and drove by many of the shows that I could not get to visit.   Andy Williams invested in Branson 50 years ago & still performs here many times. Other performers who either live in Branson or perform there a lot include: Yakov Smirnoff, the Russian comic, Tony Orlando, The Osmond’s, Mickey Gillies, Jim Stafford (20 years here), the Hughes Brothers who are the world’s largest performing family (5 brothers, wives and 25 kids).  Noah The Musical is the largest grossing show in town and includes a 40-foot Ark.  I was told that Daniel O’Donnell, the Irish singer, sells out his concerts a few minutes after they are announced.  He might be the most popular unknown (?) singer in the world.  I was driven to the Shepherd of the Hills Homestead and the highest point in Southwest Missouri, the Inspiration Tower.  I wish I had the time to see the Branson Divas and Sons of the Pioneer show (75 years performing).  My last show was my absolute favorite.  At the Andy Williams Moon River Theatre I saw 1960’s legend Paul Revere & The Raiders.  That is his real name (who knew).  He is 71 years old with a full head of hair & is a really funny comedian.  The band behind him also is part of the Bill Medley show that follows.  After the Righteous Brothers’ were inducted into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame in 2003 Bobby Hatfield passed away (they were not real brothers).  I remember You’ve Lost That Lovin’ Feelin” and Unchained Melody.  Bill’s daughter performed 3 songs, one a duet.

Day 5- I was off to the opening of the Branson Airport.  Sun Country was the first flight to arrive from Minneapolis and I was on the second; Air Tran from Atlanta, which then returned me to NYC.  Lee Greenwood, who has had 20 country albums and is best known for God Bless the USA, performed for the Air Tran opening.  More Famous Dave’s BBQ & was on my way home.  I had never considered going to Branson but now I can’t wait to return (that is a hint, Branson!).

For More Information:

www.bransongetaways.com
www.branson.com
www.bransonlanding.com
www.circlebchuckwagon.com
www.promenadebransonlanding.hilton.com
www.hitsofthe60s.com
www.starlighttheatre.com
www.branson50s.com
www.legendsbranson.com
www.silverdollarcity.com
www.magnificentvariety.com
www.andywilliams.com
www.worldslargesttoymuseum.com
www.royrogers.com/museum.html
www.titanicbranson.com
www.flybranson.com
www.veteransmemorialbranson.com
www.dickclarksabbranson.com

Lets Go Flying: My First & Only Flying Lesson

A press release from the Aircraft Owners & Pilots Association (AOPA) offered journalists an opportunity to experience flying with a free introductory lesson. I have flown in private planes several times but only as a passenger, never a co-pilot. The public relations folks found me a Lets Go Flying school at the Atlantic Aviation Terminal at Republic Airport in Farmingdale, Long Island, only about an hour from Manhattan. On a beautiful late spring day it was “up, up & away” in my Cessna 172N. The owner of the AAADS Flight School Danny Waizman had another lesson that morning so he assigned me to Edi Avdic. This 24 year old came to the US from Croatia in 2001 and received his pilot’s license in 2005 while still a college student.

The AAADS Flight School has four planes including the Cessna 172N that was my training vehicle. There is also a Cessna 152, Piper Warrior II and the twin prop Piper PA-31 Navajo. I learned that the mission of the AOPA is to keep general aviation fun, safe and affordable. Normally they charge $90 for a 2 1/2 hour first time introductory flight, which I found very reasonable. With over 400,000 members the AOPA is the largest, most influential aviation organization in the world. This not-for-profit organization is dedicated to general aviation (not commercial flights) and was incorporated in 1939. The letsgoflying.com website is AOPA’s official online resource for learning to fly and contains a database of flight schools across the country.

It was time to fly. Edi showed me how to adjust my seat, fasten the seat & harness belts, work the headset & microphone and we were ready. He checked his list of pre-flight instruments and we taxied toward the runway. This airport is exclusively for private planes but had all the bells & whistles of a larger commercial airport. We were number two for takeoff (how I wish Newark, LaGuardia & JFK worked that way). We flew at around 2,000 feet so I could see the Long Island north shore beaches, marinas, golf courses and homes. Connecticut was easy to find, as was the skyline of Manhattan. I must admit that every up or down draft got me a bit nervous. I was able to climb, bank and hold the plane level. I declined Edi’s offer to show me a few maneuvers and was content to let him land the plane. It was smoother than most of my commercial flights.

For further information-
www.flightschoolaads.com
www.aopa.org
www.letsgoflying.com
www.republicairport.net