The Musings of Ron Kapon

Confessions of a Former Fanny Pack Senior

I admit it; I wear a fanny pack on most of my travels around the world, as well as many outings around New York City. I look like a tourist -which I often am- but the photos with the fanny pack make me look even chubbier. Help has arrived with several travel accessories I was asked to sample.

I'll start with the smallest, the SPI or Small Personal Item Belt, next to the medium sized Hipzbag and finally the largest: Go Caddy. Editors Note- All the products mentioned were received at no charge after an e-mail from the company or PR agency asking me if I wanted a sample.

I carried my cell phone and small wallet inside the SPIbelt. It is slim and almost unnoticeable around my waist. It would be perfect for the beach or while riding a bike. The sample I was sent is called the Shielded SPIbelt that “protects health and identity.” It claims to keep electromagnetic fields (EMP) from stealing one's identity and from EMF emissions, which refers to voltage generated by a battery or by the magnetic force. It says travelers can carry credit cards and passports without the worry of someone stealing their personal information. I am not sure how I can check out their claim, but will use their product on many occasions. Retails for $19.95.

Hipzbag sent me their slightly larger passport bag (5.5X5.5- rather than the 4.5X4.5). I wore the bag on my belt loops one day and with the matching waist strap the second day. I always ask for black as it blends in with everything I wear. The open pocket in the back carried my cell phone and I could feel it vibrate. The zippered compartment held my small wallet, keys and a passport. They claim there is room for a camera (not my large Canon). Retails for $24.95.

The weather was perfect (sunny and 78 degrees) and there was a street fair only a block from my apartment. The Go Caddy worked for me as I slung it over my shoulder and used the included sleeve to carry a 1.5 liter bottle of water. Between the deep front pocket with flipped Velcro closure and the elastic back pouch there was room for my glasses, wallet, cell phone. I wanted to see if my camera would fit and it did, although a bit tightly. I clipped my house keys onto the metal clip and I was off walking the fair. Retails for $19.95.

The same folks that sent me the SPIbelt also sent along Travalo. It allows one to take their favorite scent with them to the gym or on a plane. They told me it was approved for carry-on luggage by the TSA (4.0ml). Holds 50-65 sprays of perfume or cologne with a clear window to gauge how much is left. It works with most bottles with a removable nozzle. I must admit I had to call the PR firm to figure out how it worked, but then I am not a technical wiz. It comes in an assortment of colors and sizes. I chose green and the Travalo Excel which is aluminum and holds 65 sprays. It includes a protective carry case and retails for $19.99. There is also a plastic version for $9.99. I have been using it for several weeks and am perfectly happy with its performance.

For Further Information-

www.spibelt.com

www.hipzbag.com

www.thegocaddy.com

www.travalo.com

Cheese, Farms & Wine. It All Sounds Divine

I have had the good luck to interview many dairy farmers in Vermont over the past several years. They are a breed of their own- working dawn to dusk seven days a week, 365 days a year. Their commute is a pathway to the barn, their transportation is a 30 year-old John Deere tractor and their office is the milking parlor. Paperwork is not their thing, and computers are typically an unwelcome intrusion in the tried and true ways they grew up with. 

Most dairy farm families trace their roots back generation after generation and many old-timers were born in the same farmhouse where they still live today. They are good neighbors, steadfast stewards of the land and fiercely self-reliant individuals. I love the results of their hard work every bit as much – cheese.  And that got me thinking. Why not sever my relationship with the computer for a few days and get some first-hand experience? You know, do the old fashioned thing and take a trip along the Vermont Cheese Trail. I have heard about this for years, but it never dawned on me to actually do it.  I was inspired by the prospect and luxuriated in thoughts of a slow-paced trip visiting dairy farms, imbibing my favorite wines and savoring some of the best cheeses in the world. More research was in order.

My first stop was the Cabot’s Creamery Cooperative Visitors Center in Waterbury.  One of Vermont’s brightest stars, Cabot has added joy to my life for decades with their “best in class” cheddars. I have used their cheese for my wine classes for the past 10 years.  A trip to the creamery where milk is delivered directly from local farms and tenderly turned into edible gold was at the top of my list. It was a treat to spend a few hours with the alchemists who churn their milk into the “Extra Sharp” cheddar or delectably smooth Monterey Jack I enjoy so much. Hmm…maybe I can even score some freebies.

Cabot’s creamery is the crown jewel of the Vermont Cheese Trail, but there are 43 other stops along the way. Famous for their artisan cheese makers, many of whom have studied overseas with the great cheese makers of England and France, the Vermont Cheese Trail offers abundant selections. A prime example is the Blue Ledge Farm in Salisbury. This husband and wife team became a full-time cheese operation in 2002 and they get their milk from their herd of 75 goats which they treat like family. A happy goat is a productive goat, or so they say. This is not your standard milk-based cheese. They are renowned for their Fresh Cheeve (a soft goat cheese), their Crottina (a white, mold-covered cheese), and La Luna (an aged raw milk cheese similar to Gouda). This is a seasonal cheese making operation that follows the natural cycle of goats, which is to say they have a busy spring and summer and shut down in winter. It would be fun to learn about goat cheese from the experts, plus goats are much rowdier than cows. It would be interesting to see how the family cajoles the herd into good behavior.

If goats are on the itinerary, sheep should be too. That brought me to the Bonnieview Farm, located in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom. I have never had sheep cheese, and this is a sheep farm. The farm is owned and operated by Neil and Kristie Unie and they have 170 milking ewes. Who knew? Like so many farms in New England, the Unie’s spread has been in the family for generations and was first founded in 1890.  Like the Blue Ledge Farm, the Bonnieview Farm makes three primary types of cheeses using unpasteurized milk. These are Coomersdal (a semi-hard cheese), Mossend Blue (named after Neil’s ancestral farm in Scotland), and Ewe’s Feta (a mild, tangy cheese). I sampled them all.

So now the question arises: do they actually have any cows in Vermont?  Well, indeed they do.  Lots of cows and lots of people who make cheese from their milk. I came across Jericho Hill Farm in White River Junction.  If that doesn’t sound like Vermont, I don’t know what does. It’s been in the family since 1906, so it’s a relative newcomer compared to many Vermont farms. The farm is a modest operation run by George and Linda Miller, and it sits on rolling hills. Their bright red barn stands out against a lush green landscape and the entire family pitches in to help with the cheese making. They send much of their milk to Cabot Creamery for processing, but they also keep a portion for themselves and produce two types of award winning cheeses. Jericho Jack is an aged, raw milk cheese with a firm body. Colby Jack is raw milk cheddar made in the stirred curd style, and I intend to become an expert on both of them.   

There should be several additional stops along the way, but this seems a good beginning to a wonderful romp along Vermont’s Cheese Trail. Plan to do this little journey in late spring when Vermont has cast off any somber, overcast traces of winter and is once again rejuvenated with lush pastures and vibrant signs of life everywhere.  There may still be a touch of chill in the air, but the bite of winter will be long gone.  And speaking of bites, I will savor and long remember many nibbles of the tastiest and most distinctive artisan cheese that can found anywhere in the world. Bravo to Vermont and its delectable Cheese Trail.

Total U.S. cheese production in 2010, excluding cottage cheese, was 10.4 billion pounds, up 3.6 percent from 2009. Of that production, Italian-type cheese totaled 4.4 billion pounds, up 5.48 percent from the previous year, and American-type cheese totaled 4.3 billion pounds, up 1.7 percent. U.S. per person cheese consumption was 32.4 pounds in 2010, a slight decrease from the previous year. Cheddar cheese and mozzarella cheese remain the most popular varieties of cheese. Americans typically consume 10 pounds of cheddar and 10.6 pounds of mozzarella yearly.

Cheese goes with a variety of things, including bread, fruit and, of course, wine...not to mention "thou" at the appropriate time and place. A "crackling" fire wouldn't hurt. Wine and cheese are companions that bring out the best in one another and, in most instances; cheese makes any wine taste better. The milky proteins and richness of cheese takes the edge off a harsh wine and tames rampant tannins and acidity. Some guidelines you might want to follow are: Light cheese (cow, goat or sheep’s milk) with light wine; the whiter and fresher the cheese, the crisper and fruitier the wine should be - try Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Riesling. White wines tend to be more cheese friendly because of the relative lack of tannins, that astringent quality of many reds.

A classic pairing is Sauvignon Blanc and fresh goat cheese. Or, alternately, sample a fresh rose or dry sparkling wine. Low acid, aged cheese needs a low acid white wine - that translates to aged cow's milk with an oaky Chardonnay. Gruyere, Emmenthaler and Swiss pair well with buttery, oaky Chardonnays because the cheeses have a high salt content and earthy, nutty flavors. Heavier, richer, soft or semi-soft cheeses can use a big Chardonnay or a light, fruity red, like Pinot Noir or Merlot.

Remember, not all red wines harmonize with cheese. Wines high in tannin, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, are compatible with highly aromatic, darker and harder cheeses. The wash-rind cheese goes with a spicy Gewurztraminer, or robust red such as Syrah. Try a Cabernet Sauvignon with Dry Jack or creamy Blue.

Blue and veined cheese would work with a Chenin Blanc, or a sweet late harvest Riesling. Sparkling wines are properly suitable with soft ripening Camembert, Brie or Blue Cheese. Don't forget that the cheese influences the taste of the wine more than the wine influences the flavor of the cheese. Sounds simplistic but it is creamy cheeses that will soften the tannins in wine.

For More Information-

www.travel-vermont.com

www.vtcheese.com

www.cabotcheese.com

vermontgrapeandwinecouncil.com

 www.ediblegreenmountains.com

www.blueledgefarm.com

www.bonnieview.org

Thanks to Jonathan Praet for assisting me in the preparation of this article.

 

 

Very Good, Good and Not So Good

Every year I am sent wines and wine related products to sample and test. Instead of my sampling all these products, I have chosen to let the students in my wine class at the International School of Hospitality & Tourism Management at Fairleigh Dickinson University in Hackensack, New Jersey try them and report back. After all, these are the perfect people to do the testing. Young hospitality students interested in the wine business. I thought I would share a few examples of the very good, the good and the not so good products I have recently been sent.

I am always asked what do I do with wines that are left over in a bottle after I have sampled one or two glasses. I usually answer that I use one of several systems that either removes the air from the remaining bottle or adds nitrogen, an inert gas that fills the space between the wine left over and the bottom of the cork. Air is the enemy of wine, forcing one to drink what's left after opening the bottle within a few days to prevent oxidation. Oxygen is wine's enemy, and when a wine gets exposed to air, it becomes "oxidized." The result is flat, lifeless wine that loses its pretty, vibrant fruit scents and tastes insipid -- it will likely remind you of vinegar. Then there is the problem of corked wine. Wine is corked when it has come in contact with a contaminated cork during the aging process. The wine will smell like a wet basement after a flood or dirty socks left in the hamper a little too long: moldy, nasty and not at all enticing to the taster.

One can “think inside the box” as Eric Asimov, wine critic for the NY Times, recently did when he and his panel tested boxed wines. The “bag-in-a-box" wines eliminate the problem of oxidation because there is no space for air to occupy. The wines can stay fresh for many weeks once they have been opened. No serious wine drinker would have used boxed wines except for picnics, beach parties or for use with people who did not love wine, but just wanted to consume something alcoholic. Eric Dubourg, the owner of Wineberry America, brought his wood-boxed wine, Chateau Moulin de la Roquille Cotes de Bordeaux 2009 for my students to sample. It is one of six wood-boxed wines in his portfolio, all from small French wineries, all grower-produced. This is a new frontier in freshness and convenience as well as a reduction in carbon footprints because of the smaller shipping size. This wine is crafted with wood from sustainable forests and shields the wine from air and light. The three-liter size is the equivalent of four 750ml wine bottle and sells for around $45, or $11 a bottle. And my students certainly did love the wine. Bravo Eric, your wine is my Very Good choice.

 
I asked one of my students to take the S’Well bottles I was sent home with her to try out their claim that the insulated stainless steel water bottle will keep cold drinks cold for 24 hours, hot ones hot for 12. It claims to be non-toxic, non-leaching and BPA free. S’Well is ergonomically designed to fit in one's hand with the mouth large enough for an ice cube and small enough for drip-free sipping. The 17oz bottle retails for $35 and the 25oz size fits a 750ml bottle of wine and retails for $45. I was sent the Ocean Blue and Silver lining 25oz bottles. 10% of all sales go to build safe and hygienic water sources in Africa and India through a partnership with WaterAid.

My student’s report: “I had the opportunity to test the S’Well bottle with a freshly brewed latte. For the first 5 hours the latte stayed at the same temperature. When I retested the coffee 5 hours latter it was no longer hot. Therefore the S’Well bottle keeps drinks hot for approximately 7-8 hours, not the 12 hours claimed, but still a lot longer than other methods. I then tested it with a cold beverage and I must say it kept my beverage cold for about 16 hours. For the remaining hours the beverage went from cold to chilled to slightly above room temperature. Overall, compared to other insulated bottles I have used S’Well does work. I give it a thumbs up.”

 

At the opposite end of the scale is the Corkcicle, a plastic “icicle” filled with clear gel coolant that, when frozen solid, is supposed to be placed in a bottle of wine to keep the chilled wine at serving temperature. The first thing my students noticed was that we had to pour a couple of ounces of wine out to get the Corkcicle into the bottle. I suppose we could have consumed the extra wine. We had to remove the Corkcicle every time we poured the wine out to test the temperature. It is a foot long and wet so we made quite a mess. Imagine if it was on Moms favorite linen tablecloth. Wash it and use it again after 2 hours in the freezer. It retails for $20-$25.

At the bottom of my list of products sent to me to evaluate was Cookies & Corks. It sounded like a good idea. Sparkling wine & cookie pairings- 15 bite-sized cookies for $7.50. Parmesan Thyme, Zesty Lemon and Sea Salt Chocolate Oatmeal with brut, demi-sec and rose Champagne as well as Prosecco. The red wine and cookie pairings had white Cheedar Rosemary, Shortbread and Expresso Chocolate Peanut Butter with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah/Shiraz. The white wine and cookie pairings had Apricot Sage, Peanut Butter chocolate and Ginger Molasses with Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris. To be truthful none of them worked better than our old standout Club Crackers.

For those who ask me why I have my students test products I answer- they are the future wine drinkers and their opinions are important.

Southwest Florida

Technically, I am only talking about part of Southwest Florida. The Bradenton/Sarasota/Tampa Bay region was not part of my recent visit, but is part of the southwest gulf coast of the State of Florida. For purposes of this story I will refer to the Cape Coral- Fort Myers area as well as the Naples- Marco Island region with a stop in the northern Everglades. The area I visited lacks much of the development found in the central and southern part of the state. There has been a recent surge in high-rise residences as well as high tech development. There are still lots of agricultural products grown in the area including oranges and tomatoes. We also have the Everglades with its eco-system under attack by the advance of development.

There are the beaches: Sanibel, Captiva, Fort Myers and Bonita along the Gulf of Mexico and within the Fort Myers area. Pine Island is the largest island off Florida’s west coast and is a step back in time to Florida of the 1950s and 1960s. The warm gulf waters surrounding Sanibel and Captiva Island are perfect for fishermen (and those who are shell collectors) looking for speckled trout, snook, tarpon and redfish. I found the winter weather mild with temperatures during my 6-day stay in the high 70’s and low 80’s with only brief showers. www.fortmyers-sanibel.com

I flew into and out of Southwest Florida International Airport, located in South Fort Myers. Two years ago I visited and wrote about the main tourist attractions including: Bailey Matthews Shell Museum, J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge, Edison & Ford Winter Estates, Clinic for the Rehabilitation of Wildlife and the Southwest Florida Museum of History.

In March 2011 Prince Albert II of Monaco, a former Olympian (Bobsled in 5 Olympics), officiated at the opening of the Art of the Olympians Museum, located in the River District in downtown Fort Myers. It is also called the Al Oerter Center for Excellence, named for the late four times Olympian (Discus- 1956, 1960, 1964 & 1968). Oerter was the first track and field athlete to win a gold medal in the same individual event in four consecutive Olympics. Bob Beamon, 1968 Long Jump Gold Medal Winner, is CEO of the Museum. I met with Cathy Oerter, Al’s widow and Chairman of the museum, Kadir Klouchi, a painter and an Olympian in the long jump from Algeria (1992- Barcelona) and Emanuela Pierantozzi from Italy, a sculptor, who won a medal in Judo at the 1992 Olympics. The museum exhibits 70 artists from 18 countries. One has to have competed (not necessary to have won a medal) in an Olympics to exhibit here. Besides painters and sculptors there are artists in all forms of art exhibited here. They include poets, dancers, filmmakers, furniture designers, authors, etc. There are 125 pieces of artwork by such famed Olympians as ice skater Peggy Fleming and sprinter Florence Griffith-Joyner. Al Oerter lived on Fort Myers Beach; Bob Beamon lives in Fort Myers. There are educational programs with local school children that unite the art and sports world elevating the virtues of excellence above winning. I walked through the Olympian Sports Gallery with Olympic themes featuring equipment, films, autographs and official Olympic memorabilia. www.artoftheolympians.org

The Paradise Coast includes Naples, Marco Island & the Everglades. The majority of my 6-day trip to Southwest Florida was spent on Marco Island with side trips to Naples and Everglades City. I came to the area to conduct a fund raising Italian wine dinner for the Temple on Marco Island where my ex-college roommate Marvin Geller and his wife Peg were members. We toured the island stopping at several restaurants for meals and walking along Residents Beach, one section of the island’s four miles of white sand beach bordering the Gulf of Mexico. Part of one day was spent on Marvin’s boat. We ate lunch at a waterside restaurant on the Isles of Capri, just north of Marco Island on one day and in the nearby village of Goodland another day. I managed to find time with all this sun and surf to visit the new Marco Island Historical Museum that explores Southwest Florida’s Calusa Indians and brings this vanished civilization to life with informative displays and a recreated village scene. I also visited the Marco Island Center for the Arts.
www.paradisecoast.com

Our 1/2-day tour of the Everglades was arranged through Everglades Excursions and included transportation to the Everglades City (Stone Crab Capitol of the World) area and an hour Air Boat tour through the Everglades. The tour leaves from both Naples and Marco Island. The full day tour includes lunch. We spotted lots of exotic birds, manatees and several alligators. Everglades City is the western gateway to the 2,400-square-mile Everglades National Park, with the park’s Gulf Coast entrance located in town along the banks of Chokoloskee Bay. www.experience-naples.com www.evergladesexcursions.com

An afternoon and evening was spent in Naples, the main metropolitan area on the Paradise Coast. I got to walk on Naples Beach and on its iconic pier, watching the sunset over the Gulf. I did not get to see the Naples Zoo, Naples Botanical Garden or the Naples Museum of Art. There is always next winter. Fifth Avenue South is downtown Naples main drag with lots of sidewalk tables and casual dining. We ate on Third Street South where the restaurants lean toward fine dining. Ingrid and Fabrizzio Aielli own Sea Salt, which was named one of the Top 20 New Restaurants in 2009 by Esquire Magazine. They just opened another restaurant, Barbatella, a few doors down from Sea Salt, and that is where we had dinner. There are two rooms with almost 50 wines served in 1oz, 3oz, 6oz portions as well as full bottles. The Enomatic preservation system keeps the opened bottles fresh by adding nitrogen. We were able to sample 6 different wines in 1oz servings. There is informal dining area with a wood fired pizza oven and gelato shop and a communal side where many of the tables can seat large parties as well as a patio with courtyard seating around a decorative fountain. Barbatella had only been open for two weeks and was already packed by both locals and visitors. www.barbatellanaples.com

I have spent much more time on the Eastern Coast of Florida in the Palm Beach, Boca Raton, Fort Lauderdale, Hollywood and Miami Beach area. The Southwest Coast seems more laid back with much less traffic and better weather. I am already planning my return trip.

The City of Roses and Central Coastal Oregon

Twenty years ago I traveled to Oregon, staying at the Vintage Plaza Hotel in Portland visiting Powell Books and Pioneer Square. I tasted wine in the Willamette Valley and attended a Pinot Noir Conference in McMinnville. Driving down the Oregon Coast I looked for whales and visited Lincoln City and the Aquarium in Newport. Twenty years later I repeated my trip almost exactly. Come journey with me down memory lane.  

 

My flight arrived early and my bag was waiting for me at the baggage claim area. This was a good omen. I had been following the Weather Channel for over a week and it seemed to rain almost every day. Again, the only time it rained during my week in Oregon was late at night and when I was indoors having a meal. The Gods were looking after me. I looked for a cab and was told that a van was leaving in one minute for downtown and I was the only passenger. For less than half the price of a taxi I would be dropped off at the Vintage Plaza Hotel smack dab in the center of the city. This is now a Kimpton property with guest rooms named after local wineries and complimentary wine tasting in the lobby every day, with a weekly Wine Wednesday educational tasting featuring local winemakers and sommeliers.  

The “City of Roses” has a 2010 population of 584,000 with 2,260,000 in the Metro Portland area. The summers are warm and dry with wet, mild winters (perfect for growing roses). With strong land-use planning and a fabulous public transportation network, Portland is a very environmentally friendly green city. I could have taken the MAX Light Rail from the airport. There are 85 stations and 52 miles of track connecting the city, airport and region. You could ride it to Beaverton where Nike, Adidas and Columbia Sportswear are headquartered. There is a Free Rail Zone, a 330-block area in the central city where the streetcar, MAX and trolleys are free. No wonder my lungs seemed clear and the air so fresh. I took the free streetcar to Pioneer Courthouse Square, a public space holding more than 300 events a year. Over 26,000 people visit the square every day making it the single most visited site in Portland. Another free streetcar left me at Powell’s City of Books. Twenty years ago it was quite a bit smaller, starting as a humble storefront in 1971. It covers an entire city block with more than 1.5 million books in 3,500 different sections. I grabbed a map to the nine color-coded rooms, had a snack in their coffee shop and lost myself in the world’s largest new and used bookstore. Having had only 4 hours sleep the night before and with the time difference it was early to bed, with a book.  

Bright and early the next morning Kieron from Evergreen Escapes picked me up in the company’s Mercedes van and we were off on our 4-hour Explore Portland tour. After enjoying tea and scones our first stop was the historic Pittock Mansion. It is now a city park and affords a fabulous view of the city skyline from 1,000 feet up, as well as views of Mt. Hood, in the distance. . We were also able to see a few of Portland’s 11 Willamette River bridges from our vantage point. We drove through the neighborhoods of the Pearl District with its art galleries and upscale businesses and residences. Next we went to Nob Hill, similar to the original in San Francisco with Victorian homes, boutiques and coffee shops. Hawthorne is a former hippie area now filled with avant-garde shops, antique stores and cafes. There are more than 10,000 acres of parkland in the city. We visited McCall Waterfront Park with its bike paths and great views of the Portland skyline. Washington Park has the zoo, The International Rose Test Garden, Arboretum and Japanese Garden. We did not have time to visit any of those but did stop to view the Holocaust Memorial. Mt. Tabor Park has an extinct volcano within its boundaries, one of two US cities with such an attraction (Bend Oregon is the other). There are 43 microbreweries in Portland. I am told that is the most of any city in the world. There are also 7 distilleries in the new SE Industrial Area and we had a few minutes to stop by House Spirits Distillery whose most famous product is Aviation Gin. I think I set a worlds record by seeing the Lan Su Chinese Gardens in 5 minutes. We were running late but I did want to see this city landmark.

After a quick lunch the folks from Travel Portland drove me to SakeOne for a brewery tour and tasting. They wanted to produce world-class Sake in the United States and chose the eastern slope of Oregon’s Coastal Mountains whose water comes from winter snow melts. Water is one of Sake’s most critical ingredients. After a quick change of clothes I was taken to Metrovino for dinner. It is a wine oriented restaurant with an Enomatic wine system to preserve open bottles and offers almost 100 wines by the glass.

Before I picked up my rental car to start my trip to the Central Coast I stopped in at Voodoo Doughnuts, an independent shop with two other locations. They have very unusual products and I think my Voodoo Doll and Portland Cream had about 1,000 calories. But who is counting. They kept me awake on my drive to the Oregon Coast.  

For More Information-

www.traveloregon.com

www.travelportland.com

www.vintageplaza.com

www.pioneercourthousesquare.org

www.powells.com

www.evergreenescapes.com

www.pittockmansion.org

www.housespirits.com

www.sakeone.com

www.lansugardens.org

www.metrovinopdx.com

www.voodoodoughnuts.com  

 

The Oregon coast, also known as The People’s Coast, stretches over 363 miles along Highway 101 from Astoria in the north at the border with Washington State to Brookings-Harbor on the California border to the south. I spent two days on the Central Coast, covering the area from mile marker 113 at Lincoln City to Florence at mile marker 190. I decided to visit south to north and arrived in time for lunch at 1285 Restobar & Trattoria in Old Town Florence. I walked around this waterfront area, along the Siuslaw River, filled with art galleries, eclectic shops and restaurants. There is a large retirement community in town, as well as the Three Rivers Casino. There are 40 miles of dunes, many over 500 feet high which led me to Sand Master Park for a dune buggy ride. This is the world’s first sand boarding park. At the north end of town is Sea Lion Caves, the world’s largest sea cave and the home for wild Stellar sea lions and sea birds. From there you can view the Hecata Head Lighthouse.  

Continuing north on Route 101 I checked into the Salishan Spa & Golf Resort for a two-night stay. The actual site is in Gleneden Beach, a small coastal community nestled between Lincoln City and Newport. This 250-acre property has a golf course, spa, fitness center, swimming pool, tennis and basketball courts and uses its rustic surroundings to make guests feel they are not in a crowded environment. as it was the off-season I had my area all to myself. Dinner was at Prime Steakhouse, which uses locally grown produce to match with its prime steaks and fresh seafood. They also have a very large wine cellar with a private dining room.  

Less than a half-hour south found me in Newport at the Edge Art Gallery for my glassblowing lesson. There are over 40 artists showing their work there ranging from hand blown and fused glass to oil pastel and acrylic paintings to ceramics, jewelry and sculpture. The good news is I did not burn myself or break any glass during my lesson. I have two glass bowls to show for my efforts. My next stop was to the Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport which I last visited 20 years ago. It is one of Oregon’s top tourist attractions with over 40,000 students visiting the aquarium each year. Heading back to my hotel I had time to stop at the Whale Watch Center in Depoe Bay. They told me they had spotted over 30 whales that day from the viewing deck. My final dinner was at the Bay House Restaurant in Lincoln City. Opened in 1978 they boast the largest wine collection in Oregon.  

I took a leisurely drive back to Portland’s airport, stopping for post New Years sales at the only Tangier Outlet in the northwest, in Lincoln City. The weather was perfect; the hotels and restaurants were excellent, my flights were all on time and the air was clean and crisp. What more could I have asked from Oregon?  

For More Information-

www.visittheoregoncoast.com

www.1285restobar.com

www.sandmasterpark.com

www.sealioncaves.com

www.salishan.com

www.theedgeartgallery.com

www.aquarium.org

http://whalespoken/org

www.thebayhouse.org

Oregon Wine Country

Oregon has produced wine since the Oregon Territory was established in the 1840s, but it wasn’t until the 1960s that the industry came alive when California winemakers opened several vineyards in the state. There is a lot of space available for vineyards because of the state’s land use laws limiting land from being turned into homes and businesses. The Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 had California wines beating out their French counterparts, thus validating the California wine industry. In 1979 Eyrie Vineyards entered its 1975 Pinot Noir in the Wine Olympics and took second place behind a 1959 Drouhin wine, gaining international recognition for Oregon wines. Robert Drouhin, who had been visiting Oregon since the 1960s, purchased an Oregon property in 1988 and named it Domaine Drouhin Oregon. His daughter Veronique is still their winemaker.

Oregon’s wine laws require at least 90% of the listed varietals be in every bottle (it is 75% elsewhere in the US). Red and White Bordeaux and Rhone varietals, as well as Zinfandel and Sangiovese need only be 75%. There is also a lack of pretense in the Oregon Wine Country where wineries are not cheek-to-cheek, all along one road, as it is in Napa. King Estate is Oregon’s largest winery yet only produces 200,000 cases. It was established in 1991 and has over 1,000 acres of vines as well as 30 acres of fruits, vegetables and flowers.

There are three main wine producing areas in Oregon. The Willamette Valley is about an hour southwest of Portland, along the banks of the Willamette River. The main towns are Newberg, Dundee, McMinnville and Carlton. I spent most of two days in that area visiting wineries as well as attractions. This AVA (American Viticultural Areas) as well as the Southern Oregon AVA (resulted from the union of the Rogue Valley and the Umpqua Valley) are entirely within the state of Oregon. The third area, the Columbia George AVA is in both Oregon & Washington State. The Walla Walla Valley AVA is primarily in Washington State but does descend into Oregon. The Snake River Valley AVA is the only AVA in Eastern Oregon, along the border with Idaho. Pinot Noir (50%) and Pinot Gris (15%) are the top grapes grown, followed by Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon. There is also some Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Blanc and Gewurztraminer grown.

Grapes are one of 25 cash crops in the Willamette Valley. Wineries are owned by new grape farmers and self-taught enologists who came here looking for a quiet, comfortable life. The average output of a winery is under 5,000 cases and is mostly sold only at the winery tasting room and to club members. Western Oregon’s rainy season is October through June. 20 years ago I attended the International Pinot Noir Celebration, which takes place in McMinnville in July. Many wineries in other states have restaurants that are quite profitable. Zoning laws in Oregon wineries bans most restaurants. The Willamette Valley AVA stretches from the Columbia River in the North (Portland is at the northern end of the valley), through the state capitol Salem (try Orupa in downtown Salem for lunch) to Eugene in the South, and from the Oregon Coast Range in the West (the Pacific Ocean is 50 miles to the west of the valley) to the Cascade Mountains in the East (year-round skiing on Mt. Hood). It is the largest of the states 16 AVA’s with 90% of Oregon’s Pinot Noir grown here. There are 12,000 acres of vines and over 200 wineries. The state has a total of 419 wineries as of the date this article was written. The climate is mild year-round, with cool, wet winters (I visited in January and had beautiful sunny weather) and warm, dry summers. Most rainfall does not occur during the growing season and snow is rare.

Things are changing with the opening a few years ago of the first luxury hotel in the valley. The Allison Inn Spa is an 85-room hotel with an excellent restaurant- JORY (I had the tasting menu, paired with Oregon wine). I actually stayed at the Black Walnut Inn & Vineyard with its 9 rooms that reminded me of a European villa set in the Utz family’s 42-acre property. There are over 100 wineries within a 20-minute drive of the inn. Another night I stayed at the 20-room The Campbell House Inn, which was built in 1892 and overlooks Eugene on one acre of landscaped grounds. Dinner that night was at Marche Restaurant a few blocks away in the bustling Fifth Street Public Market.

I used the hotels to visit several small wineries including Four Graces Vineyards in Dundee (sold throughout the US); Pfeiffer Winery in Junction City where Robin Pfeiffer has 700 acres planted. He used to sell his grapes to King Estate but now sells all 1,200 cases out of his solar-powered winery. And there's the 300 case Quailhurst Vineyard Estate in Sherwood that pairs Oregon Horse Country beauty, a stable filled with championship steeds, along with a cellar of full-bodied pinots. In Aumsville I visited Sandee Piluso at Piluso Vineyard and Winery. Her 4 acres of vines produce 9 wines (1/2 are Pinot Noir) and the 500-600 cases are all sold in the tasting room.

Do not miss Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum in McMinnville. They kept the place open so I could sit in the original Spruce Goose (think Howard Hughes) cockpit. They are there to educate, promote and preserve aviation and space history. On the way I stopped at Bob’s Red Mill in Milwaukie (not Milwaukee). Bob Moore has a passion for health and started Bob’s after his retirement at age 60. Lunch was at Milwaukie Kitchen & Wine where Chef Pascal Sauton teaches cooking classes and it serves as a specialty deli and market.

In 2010 Oregon’s wineries produced 1.7 million cases of wine and wine-related tourism contributed more than $158 million in revenues to the Oregon economy. Oregon wine production increased by 38% in 2010. This area is Napa 30 years ago. There is now a native casino in the Willamette Valley which puts further strain on Route 99W which is the main road through the Willamette Valley Wine Country.

In another article I will describe my two days in Portland and my two days on the Central Coast of Oregon. I wondered why I was coughing so much after arriving in Oregon. Then I realized it was all that fresh air. As a New Yorker my lungs were used to car and bus pollution. Lucky Oregonians.

For More Information-

www.oregonwine.org
www.traveloregon.com
www.willamettewines.com
www.oregonwinecountry.org
www.blackwalnut-inn.com
www.fourgraces.com
www.campbellhouse.com
www.pilusowines.com
www.marcherestaurant.com
www.evergreenmuseum.org
www.quailhurst.com
www.milwaukiekitchen.com
www.bobsredmill.com
www.theallison.com
www.kingestate.com
www.domainedrouhin.com
www.orupasalem.com
www.pfeiffervineyards.com

The Diplomat Hotel- Then And Now

Greater Fort Lauderdale



“A diplomat’s life is made up of three ingredients: protocol, Geritol and alcohol.”- Adlai E. Stevenson Jr.

The Diplomat hotel began in 1953 as the 150-room Envoy, erected by Samuel Friedland, the founder of the Pantry Pride supermarket chain. In 1954 he expanded the hotel to 370 rooms and it was renamed the Diplomat. It was run by Irving and Marjorie Cowan, Mr. Friedland’s daughter and son-in-law. There was very little between Miami Beach and Fort Lauderdale to entertain people until the Diplomat opened, and entertain they did with Bing Crosby, Xavier Cugat, Milton Berle, Bill Cosby, Woody Allen, Lena Horne, Joan Rivers, Sammy Davis Jr. and Judy Garland appearing in either the Café Crystal or the Tack Room Lounge. Jay Leno and Billy Crystal were opening acts.

On a personal note I stayed at the old Diplomat many times during the 1960’s, 1970’s, 1980’s and 1990’s.

Lawrence Welk filmed his first TV show from the hotel in 1962 as did the Jackie Gleason Show, and Arthur Godfrey taped his radio show there starting in 1965. Harry Truman, as well as every U.S. president since 1974, has addressed labor unions at the hotel. In a 2002 article for Travel + Leisure Magazine the Diplomat was described as “A playground for rich Northerners down for the season in their fur coats and string bikinis.” On New Years Eve 1974 Frank Sinatra returned from retirement and was paid $200,000 for his hour-long performance.

Over the years the Diplomat Resort continued to add rooms topping off at 1,170 with two golf courses and 19 tennis courts. But the hotel floundered economically, especially after a series of arson fires in 1983. Reopened in 1984 the hotel welcomed President Reagan, who addressed the International Longshoreman’s Association as well as Bob Hope, who hosted the New Year’s Eve Gala. In 1987 Cowan ceded control of the hotel to a group of labor union pension funds that sold the hotel in 1997 to the United Association of Journeymen & Apprentices of the Plumming & Pipe Fitting Industry.

In 1998 the original hotel was imploded with 500 pounds of dynamite in less than 25 seconds.

In March of 2000 the 155-acre Country Club at the Diplomat opened to the public with an 18-hole golf course, 10-clay tennis courts, pro shops and 60-luxury guestrooms. In September of 2000 the 30,000-square foot Spa at The Diplomat opened featuring 20 treatment rooms and complete fitness facilities. Both are a mile away by hotel shuttle. Starwood Hotels and Resorts Worldwide was appointed management company for the renamed Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa, along with The Diplomat Country Club & Spa.

In January 2002 the 39-story hotel opened with 998 rooms and was the tallest and most expensive building in Broward County. The lobby features a five-story, 60-foot atrium surrounded by waterfalls with the water motif continuing in an outdoor infinity-edged pool with waterfalls splashing into a 240-foot lagoon pool below. All rooms offer views of either the ocean or the Intracoastal Waterways.

Another personal note- I have stayed at the new Diplomat in 2003, 2009 and 2011.

The 209,000-square-foot convention center is adjacent to the hotel and features four ballrooms as well as a full fitness center. Across the skywalk, over Ocean Drive A1A, is Diplomat Landing, a 60,000-square-foot area of restaurants with a 14 slip marina. I spent one entire day on The Hollywood/Fort Lauderdale Water Taxi, which stops there. I had dinner in both Rivals Waterfront Sports Grille and AiZiA Restaurant (Asian cuisine) while staying at the hotel in 2011. The same chef Mauricio Gutierrez is still there but the restaurant was located in the main building when I ate there in the fall of 2009. It moved to Diplomat Landing in December of 2009, which gave it more room with both indoor and outdoor dining. At 11PM it becomes a nightclub. Believe it or not I had the same wait server who said she remembered me because I reminded her of Ernest Hemingway. True story.

The Westin Diplomat is a short taxi ride from Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood or Miami International Airports as well as the Port Everglades Cruise Terminal. There were 7 cruise ships in port while I was there. If you are a passenger on Holland American, Royal Caribbean or Celebrity and your return trip home is in the late afternoon or evening the Hollywood folks have a great deal for you. For $35 or $40 (depending on which airport) they will send your luggage ahead to either Miami or Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood airports and then transport you to a private room on the beach where you can relax, eat, swim or shop before they return you to your chosen airport. Wednesdays through Sundays the Hollywood Trolley stops at the hotel entrance (one of a dozen stops) and for $1 you can take it throughout the city of Hollywood from 10AM to 10PM. I used it to have dinner at Sugar Reef Tropical Grill on the Hollywood Broadwalk. Opened in 1994 it was the first white tablecloth restaurant to open on the Broadwalk. They specialize in fresh fish. I used my table to view the 56th Annual Hollywood Beach Candy Cane Parade. This parade, along the 2 1/2 mile Broadwalk, facing the Atlantic, has a real local feeling with floats, marching bands, dancers and fire and police vehicles.

I mentioned spending a day traveling on both the Hollywood and Fort Lauderdale Water Taxi. There are 16 stops and it operates from 10AM until Midnight. $20 buys an all day pass, get on, and get off. Seniors pay $16 and it is $10 after 7PM. One of the stops led me to a three-hour tour on the Jungle Queen Riverboat. It goes up the historic New River past Millionaire’s Row, Port Everglades, the Intracoastal Waterway and Downtown Fort Lauderdale. We spent almost an hour at their tropical Isle viewing exotic birds and monkeys. There was even an alligator-wrestling exhibit. Another stop allowed me to visit the International Swimming Hall of Fame and famous Las Olas Boulevard. I also visited the Sunday Jazz Brunch, held the first Sunday of every month at Riverwalk in downtown Fort Lauderdale. The 40th anniversary Winterfest Boat Parade, the “world’s most watched boat parade” with over one million spectators watching from the 12-mile route took place a few days after I had to return home. It starts in downtown Fort Lauderdale’s New River and winds it way up the Intercoastal Waterway to Pompano Beach.

There were many things I did not have time to see. They included the Museum of Discovery & Science in downtown Fort Lauderdale; Gulfstream Park with a casino, shopping, dining and of course racing in Hallandale Beach. Broward Center for the Performing Arts, the Museum of Art and Stranaham House Museum are all located in Fort Lauderdale and the Arts Park at Young Circle in Hollywood.

Greater Fort Lauderdale includes 31 municipalities and my hope is that they will invite me back to see all of them.

For More Information-

www.westin.com/diplomatresort.com

www.diplomatresort.com

www.sunny.org

www.junglequeen.com

www.watertaxi.com

www.aiziahollywood.com

www.sugarreefgrill.com

www.lasolasboulevard.com

www.winterfestparade.com

www.visithollywoodfl.org

www.fortlauderdale.gov/events

www.ishof.org

www.porteverglades.net

Pasadena California- More Than the City of Roses

The last time I visited Pasadena was in 1992. I was invited to the Rose Bowl game where I was among more than 103,000 folks who watched Washington beat Michigan. I stayed in one of the cottages at the then Ritz-Carlton Huntington Hotel (built in 1907). In the summer of 2011 I was invited to spend three days in Pasadena and stay at the now renamed Langham Huntington Pasadena Hotel and Spa. The 1960s song "The Little Old Lady from Pasadena" parodies a popular Southern California image of Pasadena as home to a large population of aged eccentrics. In the song, Jan and Dean sing of an elderly lady who drives a powerful "Super Stock Dodge" muscle car and is "the terror of Colorado Boulevard."

Pasadena is a city located in Los Angeles County, California. It is the home to many scientific and cultural institutions, including the California Institute of Technology (Caltech), the Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Fuller Theological Seminary, Art Center College of Design, the Pasadena Playhouse, Le Cordon Bleu School of Culinary Arts-Pasadena, the Norton Simon Museum of Art and the Pacific Asia Museum. The population as of the 2010 census was 137,122.

 

Pasadena is home to the Tournament of Roses Parade, held each year on January 1 (or on January 2, if the 1st falls on a Sunday). The first parade was held in 1890 and was originally sponsored by the Valley Hunt Club, a Pasadena social club. They wanted the world to see their weather and beautiful flowers and oranges. “Let's hold a festival to tell the world about our paradise.” By 1895, the festivities had outgrown the Valley Hunt Club, and the Tournament of Roses Association was formed to take charge of the parade, now called the Rose Parade. During the almost 3 hours of the parade, floats (over 100,000 flowers are used in the average float), and participants travel over five miles and pass by over one million viewers who often camp out over New Year's Eve to have the best view along the parade route.

The Rose Bowl Stadium, a National Historic Landmark, is host of the first, oldest, and most famous college football postseason bowl game, the Rose Bowl Game. In 1902, the Rose Bowl Association declared that a football game would be added to the day's events. The game, now known as the Rose Bowl Game, would become the first New Year's post-season college football game ever. Soon outgrowing its original facility, a new stadium was constructed in the Arroyo Seco area. The new stadium hosted its first New Year's Day football game in 1923 and was soon christened the “Rose Bowl."

 

In addition to the annual New Year's Day Rose Bowl game and the BCS National Championship game every four years, the stadium is the home field for the UCLA Bruins football team and has hosted five Super Bowls. Soccer matches have included the 1984 Summer Olympics, the final game of the 1994 FIFA World Cup, and the final game of the 1999 FIFA Women's World Cup. Many concerts and other events have been held in the stadium, such as a U2 concert in 2009. The Rose Bowl Aquatics Center is a facility located adjacent to the Rose Bowl Stadium. The pool hosted the final practices of the 2000 US Olympic swimming and diving team. In 2008, the facility held the U.S. National Diving Championships. The Rose Bowl Tennis Center, operated by the city of Pasadena, is located just south of the Rose Bowl stadium.

 
Pasadena is home to a number of art museums and public galleries, including the Norton Simon Museum, widely acknowledged as one of the finest art collections in the Western United States. The museum's collections include European paintings, sculpture and tapestry; sculpture from Southern Asia as well as an extensive sculpture garden. I saw masterpieces by Degas, Van Gogh, Monet, Picasso, Rembrandt and Cezanne. The Pasadena Museum of California Art hosts changing exhibitions of work by historical and contemporary California artists. I visited while they were setting up an exhibit that opened that night. It was a rare glimpse behind the scenes. We saw a musical at the famous Pasadena Playhouse. To protect the innocent I will not mention its name (many of us left at intermission). That does not diminish the importance of the Playhouse, which was established in 1917 and is the State Theatre of California.
 


The Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens, with painting and sculpture galleries, is adjacent to Pasadena in the city of San Marino. It is located on the 207-acre estate of the late Henry Huntington. The botanical gardens feature 14,000 varieties of plants on over 150 acres. There are the Chinese, Rose, Japanese, Desert and Zen Gardens. I saw an original Gutenberg Bible in the library. The innovative Kidspace Children's Museum is located in Brookside Park and features many fun, educational and interactive programs for kids to share with their families. The Gamble House (Procter & Gamble) was built in 1908 and is an example of early 20th century Craftsman architecture. The Gamble House is a California Historical Landmark and a National Historic Landmark on the National Register of Historic Places. In 1966, it was deeded to the city of Pasadena in a mutual agreement with the University of Southern California School of Architecture. Every year, two fifth-year USC architecture students live in the house full-time.
 


Old Pasadena Melting Pot Food Tours- We took this three hour tour that covered about 1 1/4 miles of Old Pasadena, a National Register Historic District. This historic 22-block area is one of Southern California’s “hottest” shopping and entertainment areas. There are over 200 buildings dating back to the 1880’s. Conducted by proprietor Lisa Scalia we sampled 8 dishes including Indian, Mexican, baked goods, chocolate, tea and gelato.

 
Pasadena is a city worth visiting even when there is not a parade or football game.
 
 
For More Information-
www.nortonsimon.org
www.huntington.org
www.meltingpottours.com
www.kidspacemuseum.org
www.pasadena.langhamhotels.com
www.gamblehouse.org
www.pmcaonline.org
www.oldpasadena.org
www.pasadenaplayhouse.org

Big Bear Lake California

California’s Premiere Four-Season Alpine Resort
 
The Spanish explorers who first came upon Big Bear Valley named the Native Americans who lived there the "Serranos", which means mountaineers. These peace-loving people are thought to be Shoshonean by descent.

Many non-peace loving tribes became raiders & cattle rustlers. In July of 1845 a local rancher named Benjamin Wilson was asked to take a force of eighty well-armed men to pursue the raiders. Don Benito, as his men affectionately called him, split his force, sending the main body through Cajon Pass while he rode into the mountains following the "San Bernardino River". On the evening of the second day they arrived in a high mountain valley where "the whole lake and swamp seemed alive with bear." Don Benito Wilson later wrote: "Twenty-two Californians went out in pairs, and each pair lassoed one bear, and brought the result to camp, so that we had at one and the same time eleven bears. That prompted me to give the Lake the name it now bears." Wilson died in 1878, but before he died, he donated land and buildings for the construction of a college, which eventually became the University of Southern California. One of his grandchildren was the famous World War II General, George S. Patton.

 
It is estimated that between 1500 and 2000 people were in Holcomb Valley (part of the Bear Valley) during the peak of the Gold Rush Days in the 1860's. Today no structures remain at any of these historic mines and only caved in tunnels, collapsing shafts, and piles of colorful tailings are evidence that they once existed! When the Mormons began their settlement of San Bernardino in 1851, one of their vital needs was for lumber. Because Big Bear Valley was so far away from civilization and hauling costs were prohibitive, the valley was saved from the intensive timber cutting. Sawmills were in use for mining purposes and several small mills ran in Bear Valley. In 1924 Viggio Pederson began his sawmill. It is the last reminder of a once thriving industry in these mountains.

The peak of mountain cattle ranching lasted for about 60 years, from the 1880's until the 1940's, with most of the activity concentrated in the Bear Valley area. With the arrival of the Southern Pacific in Southern California in 1876, the area boomed as people flocked to the new land. In 1883 Frank E. Brown organized the Bear Valley Land and Water Company, purchased the necessary land, and a dam was completed in December of 1884. It was 60 feet high and 300 feet wide. At that time, the Bear Valley Dam created the largest man-made lake in the world. In 1911, J.S. Eastwood built the present multiple-arch dam, which tripled the capacity of the lake to 73,000 acre-feet. This dam was twenty feet higher. This 1911 dam was reinforced in 1988 to comply with increased earthquake safety standards.

 
The new mountain lake formed by the 1884 dam created a great interest in Big Bear Valley for recreation. Soon, trail weary travelers were regularly using the five abandoned dam builders’ cabins. When a new wagon road from Santa Ana Canyon was completed in 1899, visitors flocked to the lake in the pines. By 1916, two roads were built, and with the development of automobiles, the number of resorts continually increased. In 1924 over 24,000 cars visited Big Bear over the 4th of July weekend alone.  The primary summer attraction by the 1920's was fishing. I was told there are several hundred thousand trout in Big Bear Lake. Not sure if that is a fish tale? Fishing, boating, mountain biking and hiking are great attractions in the summer to this day. Big Bear Valley has become Southern California's most popular year-around resort with around 10 million visitors a year. It is 100 miles northeast of Los Angeles and has a year-round population of 21,000 with elevations from 6,750 to 9,000 feet. The fresh water lake (fed solely by snow melt) is seven miles long, one mile across at its widest point, with an average depth of 35 feet. There are over 22 miles of shoreline.
 

Through the efforts of Judge Clifford R Lynn, the Big Bear Sports District was formed in 1934 to develop winter sports in Big Bear. The first ski lift (known as the Clifford Lynn lift) was constructed on "Lynn Hill" in 1949. Tommi Tyndall was the Lynn Lift's first Far West Ski Association certified instructor. It was through Tommi's dedication that Bear Valley became recognized as a winter sports resort. In the early 60's it was obvious that nature could not provide snow for a major ski area so Tommi arranged financing for the first major snowmaking system in California. Snow Summit has increased its snow-making to over 200 acres of runs with a capacity of 7,000 skiers. Bear Mountain was started in the 1950's as the "Moonridge Ski Area." A mile-long lift was installed in 1969. It has been renamed “Bear Mountain” and has been increased to 195 acres of ski runs with a capacity of approximately 7,000 skiers.

 
The San Bernardino Mountains are the highest range south of the Sierra Nevadas and are also unique in being one of the few transverse ranges in the nation. Proclaimed a "Forest Reserve" in 1893, these mountains were redesignated as the San Bernardino National Forest by presidential proclamation in 1925. Consisting of 1270 square miles within the boundary of the National Forest are 812,633 acres, of which 198,042 acres are State and private lands. The highest mountain in Southern California is Mt. San Gorgonio - nicknamed Old Grayback - at 11,502 feet.
 
Must See-

 
Big Bear Mountain Resort- Play Golf at 7,000 feet. The 9-hole mountain-style course sits at an elevation of 7,000 feet. Ride the Scenic Sky Chair. The mile-long Scenic Sky Chair transports you through the San Bernardino National Forest to an elevation of 8,200 feet in 15 minutes. When I used the lift almost all the riders were cross-county mountain biking. There is a BBQ at the top although I recommend eating before taking the Sky Chair. There is a long wait and the food is just average. Have your cameras ready during the descent for beautiful Big Bear Lake vistas. During the winter skiers and snowboarders flock to the resorts’ wide-open runs that have one of the best snowmaking systems in the world.  www.bigbearmountainresorts.com

 
Captain John’s Fawn Harbor & Marina- We were lucky that Capt John was free to take us out on Big Bear Lake on one of his electric boats. Several members of our group opted for kayaking on the lake. There are also pontoons, canoes and stand up paddleboards available for rental. Capt John was a font of information. He mentioned that there were several hundred thousand trout in the lake. www.fawnharbor.com
 

Gold Mining Tour with Big Bear Off-Road Adventures. There are several tours available using 4-wheel drive vehicles. We explored the ridges, canyons, meadows, streams and rivers of the San Bernardino Mountains. Tours range from easy to moderate to serious and last from 1 1/2 to 5 hours. We had a sack lunch in Holcomb Valley www.offroadadventures.com

 
Big Bear Historical Museum- We were lucky that Doug Walton the owner of Big Bear Off-Road Adventures was our driver. He told us many stories from his 20 years living in the area. He also took us to the Big Bear Historical Museum that has exhibits that include the Indian period to the present day. There is a furnished 1875 log cabin, gold mining artifacts, and displays of native animals, birds and reptiles and exhibits of toys, historical photographs and minerals. Memorabilia from the days of Hollywood super stars as well as a working blacksmith shop. www.bigbearhistory.org

 
Moonridge Animal Park- We were taken here for a moonlight safari. The park is a wildlife animal sanctuary and rehabilitation center founded in 1959. They are the home to 160 orphaned and injured wildlife representing over 89 species. Huckleberry is a rescued three-legged black bear. There are mountain lions, grizzlies, cougars, bobcats, coyotes and raccoons. The Zoo director Debbie Richardson took rescued baby wolves home and bottle-fed them every night (along with her daughter). The animals allow her into their cages to feed them. It was a heartwarming experience. www.moonridgezoo.org

 
Robinhood Resort’s Sherwood Forest- Built in 2002, the rooms have gas-burning fireplaces, Jacuzzi tubs, and lake views and they are located within a few blocks of the village shops. We had several meals at their Nottingham Restaurant. www.robinhoodresort.info
 

Village Walkabout- Our hotel was in easy walking distance from the center of town. We ate at Evergreen Steak & Seafood Restaurant and had snacks at Himalayan Restaurant and a desert cooking demonstration at the Copper Q. We spent some time at the First Green art gallery in the world (their claim)- Gallery of the American Landscape. Elevation Day Spa gave us a 10-minute massage and I was so impressed I went back later for a foot and hand reflexology treatment. .www.elevationdayspa.com ; www.himalayanbigbear.com ; www.galleryoftheamericanlandscape.com

 

Zip lining- The highlight of the whole trip was our visit to Action Zipline Tours. After an introduction video in town their off-road Safari Jeep took our group 2 miles deep into the forest. There is a nine-line zipline course over the treetops. I have zip lined once before over downtown Las Vegas but that was only one line. This time I had time to think and get nervous many times as we zipped through 9 towers. Several of our journalist group decided not to participate and one quit after the first tower. Of course, if there is trouble it will find me. On the last zip I suddenly stopped short of the last tower by about 30 feet and had to be rescued. It was the highlight of my trip. www.actionziptours.com
 
For More Information- www.bigbear.com or (800) 424-4232

Connecticut- So Near Yet So Far Away

The name Connecticut is from a Mohican/Algonquin Indian name “quonehtacut,” which means “long tidal river.” Massachusetts is on its northern border, Rhode Island on the east and New York on the west and south. Both the Long Island Sound and the Atlantic Ocean are its bordering bodies of water. Connecticut joined the union in 1788 and was the fifth state in the USA. It has a population of 3.5 million and only two states are smaller in square miles (Rhode Island and Delaware). The 43^rd President of the US George Walker Bush was born in New Haven and attended Yale University. The state capitol is Hartford and the largest city is Bridgeport.

The first European settlers were Dutch. Initially, half of Connecticut was a part of the Dutch Colony, New Netherlands. The English established the first major settlements in the 1630's. Many came overland from the Massachusetts Bay Colony and founded the Connecticut Colony. In 1662 Connecticut became a crown colony, one of the Thirteen Colonies that fought against the British in the American Revolution. The Connecticut and Thames Rivers as well as ports along the Long island Sound have given Connecticut a strong maritime tradition. Hartford has long been the headquarters of major insurance companies and Fairfield County is filled with hedge funds. The 2010 census gives Connecticut the highest per capita income and highest medium household income in the United States.

I spent one day in Fairfield County, which contains among others the towns of Greenwich, Stamford, New Canaan, Darien and Norwalk, all less than an hour from NYC. My other day was in the northwestern Litchfield Hills. It featured rolling hills, horse farms and vineyards. The contrast was striking. The industrial cities are located along the coastal highways from the New York border to New London, then northward up the Connecticut River to Hartford. The towns along Litchfield County are centered along a “green” with a meeting house (known as a church in colonial times), tavern and several colonial homes that serve for both historic preservation and which draw many visitors.

Fairfield County Must Sees- The following I did not visit, only because of time constraints.

Audubon Center- Greenwich- Opened in 1942 as the National Audubon Society’s first educational center. There are 285 acres with 7 miles of walking trails.

Putnam Cottage/Knapp’s Tavern- Greenwich- Built 1690. In 1906 converted to a museum. A National Historic Site.

Bush/Halley Historic Site- Cos Cob- Built in the18^th Century. Connecticut’s first art colony. A visit to the Elmer Macrae Studio with its Japanese inspired artwork is a special treat.

Bruce Museum- Greenwich- Built in 1853 as a private home. In 1908 deeded to the town of Greenwich. Over 15,000 objects displayed. Another wing details geology from Connecticut and displays a brilliant collection of minerals from around the globe. Voted best museum in Fairfield County.

Stamford Museum & Nature Center- Interactive exhibitions. 118-acre site with a working farm, nature center, galleries and a planetarium. There are 80 acres of nature trails.

Earthplace- Westport- Hands on science center. 62 acres are a wildlife rescue sanctuary. The Nature Trail winds through an open meadow where native grasses and abundant wildlife can be found.

National Helicopter Museum- Stratford is the birthplace of the American helicopter industry and this museum contains hundreds of photographs and models tracing the history of the helicopter around the world. Igor Sikorsky's first craft is modeled here.

My first stop was to go antiquing along Dock Street in Stamford. For one stop shopping I found the Hamptons Antique Galleries, four floors of art, jewelry, watches, fashion, sculpture, photos, lighting, etc. which opened in 2008. The same folks have a shop in Bridgehampton, LI, (opened in 2005) hence the name. Dealers have a set space and customers can wander the floors picking out what they want to buy. There are people to help and the dealer gets his money when items are sold.

My next stop was Sound Water Environmental Center in Cove Harbor (Stamford). It is difficult to find without a GPS system. Just head toward the water. One can learn about the wonders of Long Island Sound on the Schooner SoundWaters, an 80-foot three-mastered replica of a sharpie schooner. There is a small aquarium where one learns about the creatures of LI Sound. There were day camps filling the place when I was there. Stamford residents have parking privileges. Everyone else pays.

It was time to meet my guide through my two-day visit, Janet Serra, the executive director of the Western Connecticut Convention and Visitors Bureau. We met at the Marine Aquarium at Norwalk. I have visited the nationally known Aquarium in Monterey, California and at Mystic, Connecticut and this small gem outshines the others. There are seals, river otters, sea turtles, jellyfish and more than 1,000 other marine animals. I tried the touch tanks with crabs and sea stars and got up close and personal with the sea lions. This is a very hands on aquarium with much interactivity, especially for kids. They have a boat that cruises Long Island Sound and Norwalk Harbor with marine science educators aboard. There is also an IMAX theatre with current movies shown on the six story high screen.

After lunch at Donovan’s along Restaurant Row (Washington Street) in South Norwalk we walked back a block from the Aquarium and boarded the Sheffield Island Ferry for a 45 minute ride to the Lighthouse. Built in 1868 it has been decommissioned. There is a tour of the furnished inside of the Lighthouse as well as an opportunity to stroll along the nature trails of the Stewart B. McKinney Wildlife Refuge. There are clambakes and other theme cruises during the summer. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

 

It is rare in my field that I meet a hotel executive that so impressed me that I want to continue to correspond with her. Irene Dixon is the Director of Sales and marketing for the Hilton Garden Inn Norwalk, where I spent the night.  She won best Director of Sales for all 500 Hilton Garden Inn’s worldwide. The hotel has lots of packages, especially to Sheffield Island for their Thursday summer clambakes. There is breakfast for two adults and two children under 12, overnight accommodations, shuttle to the ferry dock, two roundtrip ferry tickets and the clambake dinner for two.

Day two was all about tasting wine. If Fairfield County was crowded and full of traffic the 1 1/2 hours it took me to meet Janet Serra on the “green” in Litchfield was pastoral with little traffic. The town of Litchfield, as opposed to the county, has a population of a little fewer than 10,000. It was founded in 1719 and is now a vacation, weekend and summer home community. The Historic District is a National Historic Landmark. Stop at the Litchfield History Museum to investigate the evolution of a small New England town. There is the Town Green established in 1720 and the center of the town. Galleries, shops and restaurants surround it. The first meetinghouse was built in 1723. The town epitomizes the Colonial Revival movement. Lunch was just off the green at West Street Grill (established 1990), which had a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for their 225 wines and 12 by the glass. This is “the place” to be seen in town and the food was excellent. The Parmesean Aioli Peasant Bread was to die for.

Before stating our wine tasting adventure we stopped at Lourdes in Litchfield Shrine Grotto to view the replica of the Lourdes Shrine Grotto in France. I prayed for good wine. Connecticut has one of the New England region's best cool climates for grape growing and wine production. There are 31 Farm Wineries in the state. Ten of the 31 are located in Litchfield Hills. Many of the wineries grow Cabernet Franc, Merlot, St. Croix for reds and Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Seyval Blanc for whites. Many of the best selling wines tend to be off dry. The Connecticut Wine Festival was a two-day affair featuring over 20 wineries with food, artisans, crafters and entertainment. It was held at the Goshen Fairgrounds July 30-31, 2011.

Haight-Brown Vineyards in Litchfield was our first stop. It is the oldest winery in the state established in 1975. In 2007 it was sold to the Browns. They own 8 acres of grapes and sell about 2,000 cases. They have local food and gifts in their farm store. Miranda Vineyards is in Goshen. They have 7 acres of vines and sell about 1,000 cases. Sunset Meadow Vineyards is also in Goshen. The tasting room was originally constructed in the 1800’s. They sell about 3,500 cases and have 31 acres under cultivation. Hopkins Vineyard in New Preston may be the largest in the state with sales of 7,000 cases and 25 acres planted in vines. The original farm was founded in 1787 and became a winery in 1979, converting the 200-year-old barn. My last stop was DiGrazia Vineyards in Brookfield. The 40 acres of vines are located 20 miles from the winery. They were planted in 1978 in the town where Dr. DiGrazia was a gynecologist. Dr. DiGrazia produces wines (3,360 cases) without added sulfites and 25 churches use his wine. He has also made a wine with the highest amount of antioxidants. Using his knowledge of genetics he is working to discover a gene that he believes exists on the skins of grapes and other fruits that will increase longevity. A most fascinating man.

 

My final night was spent in Southbury at one of the most beautiful B&B's I have ever seen. The Cornucopia at Oldfield is located in an antique home, circa 1818 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. There are extensive gardens, maple trees and an outdoor pool. It was perfectly located right off I-84 and in a bit over two hours I was back in NYC. You Jersey Shore and Hampton folks please try the Connecticut coast. There is less traffic and the beaches are rarely filled. The towns are quaint and the people really New England friendly. I just wish they weren’t Red Sox fans.

For More Information-

www.ctvisit.com

www.visitwesternct.com

www.ctwine.com

www.litchfieldhills.com

www.visitfairfieldcountyct.com

www.hamptonsantiquegalleries.com

www.soundwaters.org

www.maritimeaquarium.org

www.seaport.org

www.norwalkhilton.com

www.donovanssono.com

www.haightvineyards.com

www.mirandavineyard.com

www.sunsetmeadowvineyards.com

www.hopkinsvineyard.com

www.digrazia.com

www.cornucopiabnb.com