The Musings of Ron Kapon

Beyond Broadway- Urban Adventures

A year ago I went on a local NYC tour with Urban Adventures called Tenements, Tales & Tastes. We met at City Hall Park and made our way in a loop around the Lower East Side, visiting 100-year old bakeries, churches, markets, and historic sites through Little Italy, Chinatown and more. A lot of the areas and places we visited were new to me and I had a great time. I guess they liked what I wrote about the tour because they invited me to try their Beyond Broadway walking tour.

 

Urban Adventures is about a new style of travel experience for those who want to get off the beaten path and really connect with a destination. The experience can be as short as a couple of hours or as long as a whole day. The parent company has franchises in 84 countries and 128 cities. 

 

I thought I knew all the areas we were scheduled to visit but I was wrong. Nikki was the very knowledgeable guide for the four Californians, myself and another local in our group. Our meeting point was the clock in the middle of the main concourse of Grand Central Terminal. I have passed through the terminal many times but somehow never before looked up at the ceiling to see the painted astronomical ceiling mural constructed in 1912. Nikki also pointed out a patch of dark on the carefully restored blue of the mural. This patch shows the color of the ceiling before its restoration. It was left as a reminder of how much work was done.

 

We tried out the “whispering gallery” located on the dining concourse (one level below the main concourse) near the famous Oyster Bar & Restaurant. Here, the acoustics of the low ceramic arches can cause a whisper to sound like a shout. To test it out two of us stood in opposite corners of the large arched entryway. We faced the corner and whispered. I was able to hear the other person perfectly and she heard me. There were delis, bakeries, news stands, a gourmet and fresh food market as well as an annex of the New York Transit Museum on that level. Our first tasting experience was at Taste NY, which, as its name implies, carries only New York products, including wine. We snacked on crackers filled with NY cheese. 

 

Nikki then lead our group through doors and down passages that took us to the parking garage (the daily rates could pay for a hotel room) and outside along East 44nd Street. We walked up Vanderbilt Avenue, past the Yale Club (I have eaten there many times) and made a brief unscheduled stop at the recently opened 20 stall food court called Urban Space at 45^th Street & Vanderbilt.  

 

I never realized there was a Grand Central North, opened in 1999 that provides access to Grand Central from 45^th, 47^th & 48^th Streets. It is connected to the Main Concourse through two long hallways that run parallel to the tracks on the upper level. I also learned that the terminal has 44 platforms, the most in any railway station in the world.

 

On 48^th Street just off Fifth Avenue is a 5 story stone building in the middle of skyscrapers that flies the Swedish flag, The Church of Sweden. There are comfortable couches, a library and in the rear one can buy the most delicious cinnamon rolls. I was told that less than 150 people come by every day to relax in this “hidden gem.” We then walked through the shopping atrium at the Roosevelt Hotel at 45 East 45^th Street. When one wants a few minutes of relaxation and time to read your e-mails a hotel lobby is ideal. 

 

As we arrived at Rockefeller Center the ice rink was already in operation. It happened to be in the mid-70’s but people were already using the rink. We walked past the spot where the famed Christmas tree stands during the holidays and into the 70 story 30 Rockefeller Center (now known as the Comcast Building). Just because they bought NBC Universal doesn’t mean we have to say “meet me at the Comcast building.” The interior murals depict characters of the depression, oppression and struggle aiding each other to a future promising technology, equality and positive growth. Abraham Lincoln, Ghandi and Ralph Emerson are represented helping within the mural that wraps around the square columns of the lobby and ceiling. The mostly Art Deco complex stretches from 48th to 51st streets and 5th to 6th avenues, and encompasses 19 buildings, including Radio City Music Hall and the NBC Studios. 

 

Next it was down one level to the shopping arcade with over 100 shops and subway tunnels connecting many building all the way to 7^th Avenue, as well as the N, Q, and R subway lines. The glowing panels of colored lights made for a more serene trip avoiding the chaos above ground. Speaking of chaos we arrived at The Diamond District located between Fifth and Sixth Avenue on 47 St. Lots of shops and many hustlers trying to get you into the stores of their employers. We were getting another treat. There was no street side sign for the restaurant Taam-Tov. The door is unmarked, and the elevator is hidden behind Diamond District jewelers' stalls. Jewish men fill its small lunchroom, talking shop and kibitzing with the waitresses over plates of delicious, homemade-tasting Bukharan cuisine. We had takeout Samsas that we ate at the nearby plaza in front of 1185- 6^th Ave (officially known as Avenue of the Americas; not by any New Yorker). This tiny shop off the lobby is called Simon Sips and we were here for some hot or iced drinks.

 

No tour of Midtown would be complete without seeing the bright lights of Broadway. We were standing right in the center of Times Square surrounded by flashing billboards, giant TV screens, and dozens of Broadway theaters. The costumed characters, painted ladies and ½ price ticket booth stood before us. I try to avoid Times Square at all costs but today I was soaking it all in. I even took a photo of our group against the background of all that glitz. I became a tourist for just a few moments. The last scheduled stop was at Beer Culture on 45^th Street between Broadway & 8^th Avenue. It is a small, dark craft beer bar with both tap and bottled beers. I had a  chance to thank our guide and say goodbye to our out of town folks heading to a concert. I hate to admit it but I learned a great deal about the area that I did not know before. Heartily recommended. 

 

 

For More Information-

www.urbanadventures.com

www.newyorkcityurbanadventures.com

www.grandcentralterminal.com

www.onewomanwines.com/tasteny

www.urbanspacevanderbilt.com

www.swedishchurch.net

www.theroosevelthotel.com

National Taco Week at A.G. Kitchen

Alex Garcia is a native Cuban who, after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, worked with Chef Douglas Rodriguez at the inventive Yuca restaurant in Miami (one of my favorite places there). The two chefs opened Patria in New York City in 1994 which received three stars from The New York Times (it is now closed). Garcia opened Erizo Latino, a 100 seat Latin seafood restaurant in Soho in 1998 (also closed). Calle Ocho (chef consultant) on the Upper West Side, his third restaurant, has been going strong for thirteen years (another favorite of mine). In the early 2000's, Garcia opened Babalu, a nod to the authenticity and vibrancy of his native Cuban cuisine (closed). His latest venture Copacabana is a glamorous venue in the middle of Time Square where his cuisine and music set the standards in the New York City Latino scene (chef partner). A.G. Kitchen is part of The Restaurant Group that also operates two of my favorite Upper West Side restaurants Good Enough To Eat & The Firehouse. Garcia's had two regular series, "Melting Pot" and "Nuestra Cocina" on the Food Network, and is still a judge on the “Beat Bobby Flay” show. The shows helped to further raise awareness of the vibrancy of Latino cuisines and the variety that exists within this category. To further that goal Garcia wrote In a Cuban Kitchen, which was published by Running Press.

 

A.G. Kitchen opened June 2012.  It was formerly City Grill, Columbus Grill & Columbus Tavern (I had eaten at all three incarnations).  The Specialty Cocktail menu offers AG 1940 Sparkling Mojito, Peanut Envy, Strawberry Fields, Mango Mayhem, Cilantro Daiquiri, The Upper Westie, Thai Me Down, Michelada, Moscow Mule, Cuban Sidecar and Simple Pleasures. The sprawling menu at A.G. covers hits from both north and south of the border: grilled cheese, Samba Roast Chicken, Manhattan Latin Burger, tacos, Seafood Paella, "NYC's best Cubano," served for lunch, dinner, and brunch. The restaurant is divided into a 120-seat dining area, bar area, front terrace area facing Columbus Avenue (we ate there) or 30-seat lounge dubbed the Cabanas. This area was bumper to bumper making it a bit difficult to get back to the kitchen to pay my respects to the staff (smaller than I would have imagined for the number of seats). This is a casual, neighborhood spot with quite reasonable prices. A second A.G Kitchen is open in downtown Silver Springs Maryland.

It was National Taco Week so my guest and I shared an excellent salad and then the “Make-Your-Own-Taco-Platter" with Crispy Chicken Chicharron, Grilled Guajillo Shrimp (excellent) and Braised Pork Belly with homemade tortillas, rice & beans, guacamole, pico de gallo & pickled jalapenos. Two sauces came on the platter- tomatillo green and classic red salsa. $18 for all that food- Con Mucho Gusto. This alone would have been enough for dinner but our host insisted we try the “famous Cubano sandwich.” After a few bites I ended up having the rest for lunch the next day. There is an excellent wine, specialty cocktails and beer list. I especially liked The Upper Westie- Prickly pear infused gin. Elderflower liqueur, lemon/lime and blood orange.

I am attempting to line up a few people to come back with me this weekend before the end of National Taco Week.  Bravo Chef Garcia.

The Greatest Massage Ever

I was thinking of a title for this story and realized very few people will know where I was visiting. So let’s start at the beginning. The public relations firm Eleven Six (named after the principal’s eldest daughter’s birthday- November 6^th) represents many hotels and destinations. When they sent me a list of their clients I noted one of interest: Emerson Resort & Spa in Mt. Tremper NY, about two hours from NYC and 20 miles from Woodstock, in Ulster County. www.ulstercountytalive.com

 

There are two properties at the resort which are both family-friendly. The Lodge is ideal for families and outdoor enthusiasts surrounded by an outdoor pool, dog park and children’s playground. The Inn is a more luxurious experience and the center of most activities. The Inn contains the front desk, spa (steam & sauna as well as an outdoor Jacuzzi), fitness center, conference center and shops. I am writing this while sitting outside the café that features snacks, salads, sandwiches, ice cream, etc. Additionally, there are shops featuring outdoor equipment, seasonal rentals, a general store, antiques, toys, and fashion. This area also contains the world’s largest Kaleidoscope (who knew?) housed in a 60-foot tall silo and opened in 1996. The 10-minute presentation features three-38 foot mirrors and the show is free for guests ($5 for others). I was told that the best angle is lying on one's back on the floor and looking straight up. I am not making this up. 

 

There are 26 suites in the Inn and 27 lodge rooms. I had an Imperial Suite loft with a king bed, two bathrooms, a gas fireplace, an air-jetted tub and a Swiss Rain shower with a private deck that had views of Mount Tremper and Esopus Creek. True, the Catamount restaurant is a brisk walk from the Inn but they are constructing a new restaurant to be called Woodnotes Grille that should open this holiday season. The old Inn building burned down in 2005 and was replaced by the present Inn in 2007. At the east end of the property are 1.2 miles of trails available for cross country skiers or snow shoers. During the summer months it is perfect for hiking. Behind the property is Esopus Creek that is used for fishing and tubing and Emerson Pond which is stocked with bass and trout and converted to ice skating during the cold months. 

www.emersonresort.net

 

 

I was invited to spend three days at the Emerson, arriving and leaving by Trailways of  NYC (a three hour bus trip with stops). The staff, including Tony Lanza (COO), Kayleen Scali (PR) and the entire front desk staff (especially Chris) arranged courtesy transportation everywhere I had to go in and around the Inn. I had one breakfast and dinner at the Catamount Restaurant and one lunch at the Country Store Café. In addition I ate lunch at the Phoenicia Diner, located outside the town of the same name. Built in 1962 and moved to the Catskills in the early 1980s it doesn’t take reservation and is always packed. Owner Mike Cioffi explained that they use local produce and fresh food sourced from the Catskills and Hudson Valley area. 

www.phoeniciadiner.com

 

 

I then spent two hours in the town of Phoenicia that Budget Travel Magazine included as one of the “Coolest Small Towns in America”. The town is basically three blocks filled with funky shops and restaurants. 

www.phoeniciany.com

 

The Catskill Mountain Railroad stopped at the Mt. Tremper station that borders the Emerson property. The hour-long trip in open or closed cars stops for 15 minutes at the Empire State Railroad Museum in Phoenicia where one of the volunteers explained that the railroad originated in 1866 and was re-chartered in 1982 to run tourist trains as well as freight service. They are headquartered in Kingston. The cost is $14 for adults and $8 for children 4-11. www.catskillmtrailroad.com

www.esrm.com

 

 

Mount Tremper Arts (MTA) supports contemporary artists in the creation and presentation of new works of art. Founded in 2008 it is an artist-run space that utilizes an integration of performances, exhibitions, artist residencies, and hybrid food and art programming. Check out their schedule before you come to town. 

www.mounttremperarts.org

 
I have had massages my whole adult life (I am 80) and never have I met my match until Gia M. Polk worked on my body with a deep tissue massage with hand and foot reflexology. Her hands of steel made me cry uncle several times. This was a first for me. Gia uses myofacial release (MFR), which is a soft tissue therapy for the treatment of skeletal muscle immobility and pain. It is effective when it increases the range of motion and joint flexibility. She has the client participate with active resistive motions that help release the muscle fibers that are stuck. 

 

She is a Reiki Master. Reiki is a Japanese technique for stress reduction and relaxation that also promotes healing. It is administered by "laying on hands" and is based on the idea that an unseen "life force energy" flows through us and is what causes us to be alive. If one's "life force energy" is low, then we are more likely to get sick or feel stress, and if it is high, we are more capable of being happy and healthy. After my treatment I was walking tall and did not use my cane for the rest of the day (neuropathy, titanium knee). I will remember my time at the Emerson fondly, both because the resort had the best of all worlds and because Gia made me feel young again.

www.emersonspa.com

 

Argentina's Greatest Winemaker

I was recently invited to lunch with Jose Antonio “Pepe” Galante whose 2015 harvest marks the 40^th year that he has made wine in Argentina. I met him many years ago when I visited Argentina and Catena, where he spent three decades. Catena’s loss is Bodegas Salentein’s gain. Famed international winemaking consultant Paul Hobbs said of Jose:  “He produced the wine which catapulted Malbec and Argentine wines onto the international stage. He is Argentina’s greatest winemaker of our times.” A small group of wine writers were invited (by Balzac Communications) to Valbella Ristorante in the meatpacking district of Manhattan (13^th near 11^thAve). Kudos to the chef and staff, especially Sani, who made the luncheon a success. There are five private dining rooms on the second floor (surrounded by wine racks), plus a chef’s table in the kitchen. I will be back to Valbella very soon. Matias Bauza Moreno, the PR & Luxury Portfolio Manager of the parent company that owns Salentein, as well as a representative of their importer Palm Bay International, joined us for lunch. 

Bodegas Salentein has pioneered premium winemaking in the Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina. Pepe calls the area “a paradise for winemakers.” The average temperature is 57 degrees F with altitudes from 3,000-3,900 feet above sea level. There is a long growing season with 250 sunny days a year, little rain with the area very warm during the day and cool at night, all conducive to growing quality wine grapes. 

 
There were five wines served with lunch and all were my favorites. I loved the fact that the front and back labels told a story and explained everything about each wine. Too many labels today give no clue as to the varietal breakdown, aging process, food combinations, etc. Bravo to Bodegas Salentein for winning my heart and taste buds. I am not a Chardonnay person but the first wine with lunch was the 2012 Single Vineyard Chardonnay. Aged 12 months in oak barrel it was soft and buttery and not like any Chardonnay I have tasted in the past few months- $50.

What followed were four red wines, each more delicious than the previous wine. Normally I do not rate wines but weave a story about what I taste. This story is a day I will not soon forget. The 2013 Malbec Reserve spent 12 months in oak and was unfiltered. It is 100% Malbec and retails for $18 (a bargain). The 2012 Numina was 60% Malbec with the rest a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. It spent 16 months in French oak and retails for $40. Primum Malbec 2012 had 18 months in French oak barrels followed by 12 months bottle aging before being released for sale- $65. The final wine was the 2011 Gran Vu that was 73% Malbec and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel fermented for 24 months and retails for $120. 

 

Several of my writer friends will probably ask me why the wines were somewhat pricey. I say to them: Taste the wines and then you can have an opinion. I left the restaurant a happy camper and can’t wait to taste these wines again. BRAVO Pepe.

 

www.saleentein.com