Prequel- My oldest nephew John Kapon, President of Acker Merrall & Condit (oldest retail wine & liquor store in the US- founded in 1820) as well as special events and wine auctions (largest in Hong Kong), decided to move his family (wife Dasha, daughter Katerina (6) and son Marshall (almost 3) to San Juan, Puerto Rico for business reasons. They bought a three-bedroom condo at Caribe Plaza, around the corner from the Caribe Hilton. They invited me to visit for 10 days in mid-January.
Columbus discovered Puerto Rico on his second voyage (1493). He named the island San Juan Batista. Later the island took the name of its capitol- Puerto Rico (fine or rich port). Only the town was known as San Juan. Spain controlled the island from 1493-1898 (Spanish-American War). Remember, Puerto Rico is an unincorporated (1898) territory and all its residents are U.S. citizens. They do not have senators or congresspersons who work in Washington, DC.
I am a travel writer who has visited 147 countries and I thought I knew what to do next. I had 6-8 assignments for articles about both rum and travel. Several were in high-end magazines. I called the Puerto Rican Tourist Office and Rums of Puerto Rico. They should be able to handle everything for me. Incorrect. This was an election year and most of my contacts feared they might lose their jobs if there was a change in parties governing the United States (they did). Both Rums of Puerto Rico as well as Puerto Rican Tourism could not assist me. The Ritz Carlton Dorado Beach was home to Jose Andres Mi Casa with a supposedly great wine list; sorry, we cannot assist you.
I got tired of the “sorry we can not help” so went to work on my own. I found flights (3 hours plus) under $200 on Delta. Surprise! Delta coach served a free small sandwich, along with the usual snacks and drinks. If you are a premium American Express cardholder you can use the Delta lounge at JFK (I did). I contacted Puerto Rican firms and tour operators directly. I have written about the companies that assisted me with links to their sites. I had a great time and highly recommend the island and its people to everyone looking for a vacation with great hotels and food, adventure tours and wonderful warm and friendly people. Almost all my time was spent in the Condado/Old San Juan area.
I am a Professor of Hospitality & Tourism Management at a university in New Jersey. A senior member of the Hilton management serves on the board of advisors with me. When he heard I was headed to San Juan he arranged a two-night stay at the Caribe Hilton (along with their PR firm who did all the leg work). I was under no obligation to write a great review but I am because everything was perfect.
I was greeted and led to my room on the top floor of the original building. NOTE- This was Conrad Hilton's dream- the first hotel built outside the continental US by Hilton in 1949. There were several new additions added over the years, with a total now of 916 rooms & suites, including 652 in the original building tower. They also lay claim to inventing the Pina Colada there in 1954. Of course, I was offered one as I checked in. Across the street is Paseo Caribe Center with 264 villas. On Friday night I went there for free outdoors jazz. There are shops and restaurants in the center. I especially liked El Mercado with a dozen food vendors.
I had breakfast at Palmeras; lunch at the Atlantico Bar & Grill (while relaxing in the hot tub) & dinner at Lemongrass, located by the lagoon rooms with GM Pablo Torres as well as my favorite PR person Betty Gonzalez. The restaurant features Pan Asian Latino cuisine. For a quick snack there was Starbucks and a new discovery for me- Quiznos subs. I took one to go and ate at the pool. There are 17 acres and again, I believe the hotel has the only private beach in San Juan (built before the beaches were declared public). There is a fitness center, pool, hot tub, tennis courts, spa, game room and 8 restaurants. Why leave the property? I did visit Old San Juan, which is only a few minutes away by taxi.
It has been over 10 years since I last visited Casa Bacardi. WOW! Have they expanded their operations? They are the largest privately held spirits company (Dewars, Grey Goose, Bombay etc.) as well as the largest premium rum distillery in the world, and still are family owned. The Puerto Rican distillery was opened in 1958 and in 1960 the Cuban government seized the Bacardi assets in Cuba. In 2003 the visitor’s center opened and has since been expanded. There are three tours available. Historical Tour- $15 (seniors- $12); Rum Tasting Tour- $45; Mixology Tour- $45 (includes the distillery tour as well as the preparation of three cocktails). Every tour participant gets rum cocktail before the tour as well as a souvenir Bacardi glass. www.visitcasabacardi.com
I was honored that they gave me a private tour with Juan Cartagina who is a Brand Master. Georgina is a privately owned restaurant next to the visitor’s center that is opened for breakfast and lunch only. Margarita Vera was my host. It serves the cuisine of Puerto Rico and Cuba. The distillery is located in Catano, which is about 1/2 hour drive from the Condado area. www.visitcasabacardi.com/ georgina
Caroline Johnson was our guide for the Spoon food and history walking tour of Old San Juan. She was so knowledgeable that I cancelled another walking tour of the area two days later. Our group of eight met at the totem pole at Plaza del Quinto Centenario overlooking El Morro Castle. There were historical buildings, plazas, parks, gardens, museums, shops, cafes and restaurants. This area is a National Historic Site (National Park Service).
Stops included: Cafe Don Ruiz, Tortuga Bakery, Hecho en Casa, Cosecha Mia and Deaverdura. Along the way I (we) learned all about the area. She stopped at many historic sites and even walked me over to El Convento Hotel where I had an appointment after the tour. Ask if she will be your guide when you book. It is worth the effort. www.spoonfoodtours.com
Stops included: Cafe Don Ruiz, Tortuga Bakery, Hecho en Casa, Cosecha Mia and Deaverdura. Along the way I (we) learned all about the area. She stopped at many historic sites and even walked me over to El Convento Hotel where I had an appointment after the tour. Ask if she will be your guide when you book. It is worth the effort. www.spoonfoodtours.com
I did three other hotel site visits during my stay. The Condado Plaza Hilton was about ½ mile from the Caribe Hilton. Their PR firm arranged this and the tour was conducted by new favorite person in Puerto Rico (unfortunately, she is married) Betty Gonzalez from the Caribe Hilton. There are 4 pools and 5 restaurants here. All the top executives here are women led by the GM- Sharyl Toko (5th from left in the photo) www.condadoplaza.com
The PR firm for the Condado Vanderbilt Hotel arranged a breakfast at Ola Oceanfront Bistro with Albert Charbonneau, Director of Food & Beverage. In 1919 Frederick William Vanderbilt built this hotel. It is in the mission/Spanish revival style. It closed in 1996 and reopened in December, 2014 (319 rooms) with the regal feel of the old hotel, but with modern accents. There is Veritas, an oceanfront wine and cognac bar offering live music and small bites as well as Avo Cigar Lounge and Marabar Martini Bar and Lounge. www.condadovanderbilt.com
After finishing the Spoon food tour I went to El Convento Hotel where Neisha Martinez, the senior sales manager, gave me a tour and allowed me to rest while catching my breath. She also bought me a Mojito and some snacks. This 58-room boutique hotel is located next door to the cathedral (used to be a 17th Century convent- hence the name). There are ornate handcrafted furniture, marble bathrooms and a rooftop terrace with hot tub and plunge pool.
Viator had arranged a 4PM tour aboard La Paseadora II at the last pier (#6) along the promenade. After I finished my Spoon food and history tour of Old San Juan I had an hour before my boat tour left. I decided to walk along the piers while noting that four cruise ships were docked. I thought about taking a taxi but a very helpful police officer told me I was better off walking past all the other piers. Traffic was bumper to bumper with buses and taxis picking up cruise ship passengers. The Puerto Rico Information Center is along the walkway just before Pier 1. El Morro and San Cristobal Forts are about ½ hour walk from each other. They plus the Palacio de Santa Catalina are all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
San Juan Water Tours at Pier 6 includes six companies that have combined to use the last pier. There are fishing tours, inflatable boats, paddleboards, kayaks, jet skis etc. When I arrived I was told I was the only passenger on the 4PM tour and could I take the 5:30 boat tour. I had another appointment back in Condado and told the lady manning the desk that fact. The GM Luis Barreto told her I was welcome aboard for a complimentary one-hour tour on La Paseadora II and he would be right there. Now that is service. I had a fabulous time and was back on shore in time for my next appointment.
I am 81 years young and walk with a cane due to neuropathy and arthritis. That doesn't mean I am not in good shape. I have had private yoga lessons every week for 11 years; regular massages and do physical therapy. Bespoke Lifestyle Management invited me to spend a full day at El Yunque Rainforest, the only tropical rain forest in the United States National Forest System. The Forest covers over 28,000 contiguous acres, with the peaks of the Luquillo Mountains, escarpments, steams and waterfalls, and lush green vegetation.
Pickup was at my family’s condo in Condado and the driver made several other stops for other participants. There was a rendezvous with another pickup van at a stop near the entrance where we could have something to eat and drink.
Alex Alvelo was our guide inside the forest. He was concerned that the trail walks down 1,000 feet to the waterfall and then back up to the parking lot could be slippery and wet (it is a rain forest). It did shower twice while he spoke about the forest and its inhabitants and vegetation. The rain forest Gods smiled on our group and there was nothing but sunshine after the showers. We were able to spot native flora and fauna, many of which are not found anywhere else on the planet.
This may have been my proudest day as I did the entire trail and never once fell. I skipped the swim in the waterfall. Yes, I needed a bit of assistance where there was no handrail and Alex was both knowledgeable and very helpful to me. After the hike we climbed the 96 steps to the top of Yokahu Tower for a great view of the forest. We stopped at the same restaurant where the pickup groups met for some classic Puerto Rican food (not included in the tour). Then everyone got dropped off at his or her pickup point. www.elyunque.com
Thanks to Dragonfly Tours for arranging my all day water tour from Fajardo with East End Excursions. At 7 AM I walked to the Caribe Hilton (5 minutes) to be picked up (more pickups on the way) for an hour's drive to Fajardo at the east end of the island.
The catamaran took our group of about 25 people to the deserted island of Cayo Icacos for sun, swimming, paddle boarding, kayaking and just plain relaxing. Snorkeling was cancelled due to the high winds and rough seas of the Caribbean. The captain and three-person crew were great. Lots of drinks, both alcoholic (rum) and non-were available. Snacks were always refilled. Around an hour into the fun it was lunch with unlimited portions of cold cuts, salad and fruit. I needed some help getting ashore and back. All I had to do was ask and it was done. www.dragonflyadventurespr.com www.eastislandpr.com
What to do on my last full day in San Juan? It is the first day of the Festival of San Sebastian. All auto traffic in and out of Old San Juan stops at Noon. I decided not to go there because all the action starts later in the day and I am not a crowd person. Talk is of hundreds of thousands of people jamming the streets. I went back to the Caribe Hilton to swim and sun. Sorry to leave but can’t wait to come back.
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