The Musings of Ron Kapon

SIDEWAYS THE EXPERIENCE

The stage play version of Rex Pickett's novel and film Sideways is off-Broadway at the Theater at St. Clement's on West 46th St just west of 9th Ave. Performances run February 20-Just extended to May 24. I attended opening night on Sunday, February 23rd thanks to singer, songwriter Susan Palmer Marshall who is married to Alexander "Sandy" Marshall one of the show's producers. I knew Susan many years ago when she worked for my friend Sally Jessy Raphael.

Sideways The Experience pairs Pickett's theatrical adaptation of his novel with premium wine and gourmet food event before the show, curated and presented by online wine retailer Wine Access and caterer Mary Giuliani. The work follows an eventful trip to the Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara) wine country by Miles (Brian Ray Norris), a struggling writer and wine enthusiast, and his engaged friend Jack (Gil Brady) in search of great Pinot Noir. They made their way from tasting room to tasting room. The romantic side story for both was an added attraction. Kimberly Doreen Burns (Maya) and Jenny Strassburg (Terra) add sizzle to the steak. The "Sideways Effect" resulted in the downward trend of the sales of Merlot in favor of the then almost unknown California Pinot Noir.

Sideways was published in June 2004, with Alexander Payne's film adaptation, starring Paul Giamatti and Thomas Hayden Church, premiering later that year.

The “Experience” begins with a pre-show event, where guests are invited on stage for a wine tasting by Wine Access as it had been depicted in the film. The task of creating a menu to pair with the wines is in the hands of New York City caterer Mary Guiliani. That experience is for premium ticket holders who pay- $175. If it is only wine samples(2) the price is- $75. Or one can attend the show without the side benefits for $55.

Wine Access chose wines that wine enthusiasts would enjoy.     

Piece of Work – Rosé – California

Kinfolk - Sauvignon Blanc – Napa Valley

Editorial – Chardonnay – Russian River Valley

Color & Sound – Pinot Noir – Sonoma County

Grawlix – Merlot – Napa Valley

The food menu had all the great flavors of California cuisine including “Prosciutto & Brie S’mores with Rosemary Honey Drizzle, Tuna Tartare Black Tacos, Avocado and Chipotle Crème” (with Rosé); “Squid Ink Pasta Donuts with Rock Shrimp and Pancetta” (Sauvignon Blanc); “Vegetable Pot Pies with Rosemary Aioli, Fontina & Black Truffle Honey Grilled Cheese” (Chardonnay); “Duck Confit Pot Pie with Fig Sauce” (Pinot Noir).

The set (David Arsenault) and costume designers (Nicole Wee) get an A-Plus from me. Everything has the look of a first-class Broadway show at Off-Broadway prices. Bravo to director Dan Wackerman. My only criticism is the play runs too long. Maybe cut 10 minutes. I will drink to that.

OTTO ENOTECA PIZZERIA

What a pleasant surprise to receive an e-mail from one of my former wine students at ISHTM (Class of 2015) located at Fairleigh Dickinson University in Teaneck/Hackensack, New Jersey: Israel (Izzy) Fernandez inviting me to join one of the Saturday afternoon wine tastings at Otto Enoteca e Pizzeria located at 1 Fifth Avenue (8th Street) next to Washington Square Park and its famous arch (as well as next to New York University).

The address brought back fond memories. During my college days at Columbia (mid-1950's), I often hung out at the 1 Fifth Avenue hotel that was built in 1927. The ground floor ballroom, bar, and restaurant originally served hotel guests and residents. In 1976 the building went co-op and a restaurant opened that served residents and guests.

From 1989 to 1991 it operated as a steakhouse. The curse of 1 Fifth Ave continued when a sequel to Gotham opened in the space in 1992 followed by One-Fifth Ave in 1994. Clementine occupied the space from 1997 to 2000.  The curse was removed when Joe Bastianich and his then partner Mario Batali (that is another story) opened an Italian Enoteca Pizzeria modeled after an Italian train station. Otto (meaning 8 in Italian) began in January 2003 and has been rocking ever since.

The Saturday afternoon wine tastings (4:00-5:30 PM) are located at the standing high-top tables in the front enoteca, or private dining room. Each class includes tastes of five wines (normally there are three reds and two whites). To complement the wines, classes include the chef’s selection of artisanal cheeses and house-cured meats. All classes are led by a Sommelier from Otto’s staff.

Sicilia, You’re Breakin’ My Heart- $75 – Saturday, February 15th, 2020. Kris Tracy joined Otto in the fall of 2019 and conducted the tasting.  "The tiny island has so many fabulous wines to offer. Drink wines from Mount Etna in the East to Vittoria in the South." The wine list had about 280 ALL Italian wines listed, as well as a separate page of 55 wines, priced $50 and under (great idea). The room was sold out with 20 people. The capacity for the restaurant is 283.

Wine 1- Rosato- 2018 Faro DOC, Rosato, Bonavita- 80% nerello mascalese, 20% nocera- $50 on the wine list- Herbal, balanced acidity, soft fruity, fills the mouth.

Wine 2- Bianco- 2017 Terre Siciliane IGT, E.T. Acosta, Versante Nord- minella bianco- $65 on the wine list- Strawberries, honey, crisp acidity.

Wine 3- Bianco- 2016 Sicilia DOC, Eruzione 1614- carricante, riesling- $70 on the wine list- Soft, light, flinty, metallic, small amount of Riesling.

Wine 4- Rossi- 2014 Etna DOC, Alice Bonaccorsi, Val Cerasa- 80% nerello mascalese, 20% nerello cappuccio- $65 on the wine list- minerality, needs food. 

Wine 5- Rossi- 2017 Terre Siciliane IGT, E.T. Acosta, "Versante Nord"- 80% nerello mascalese, 20% indigenous grapes including carricante- $65 on the wine list- black pepper, light color, tannins. My favorite.

The audience seemed to know wine and was involved with the discussion. I asked for a spitoon and perhaps the participants should be given an extra plastic cup for spitting. Also, maybe refill the cheese plate or at least add bread? But thoroughly educational and well done.

 

Can’t make one of the public sessions? Looking for a special event? Private wine classes are available for groups of 6+guests. For more information, contact [email protected]. Or call 212- 995-9559. Restaurant open 7 days a week- Noon-10PM- 11 PM on Friday & Saturday. 

https://ny.ottopizzeria.com/

 

 

 

ANTON'S

I first met Nick Anderer when he was in high school. His older brother Erich was a student at Columbia and a member of my fraternity. Dr. Eric is now a renowned brain surgeon. Youngest brother Peter is a partner in Legacy Records restaurant near the Hudson Yards in NYC. He started coming to the Columbia gym when he was about 12 years old & played basketball during my Sunday basketball program for neighbor young men. Dad was the head of the East Asian Department at Columbia (just retired) and mom Mia taught at St. Aloysius in Harlem. New Years Day they have a party at their apartment near Columbia for faculty members and friends. I have attended at least a dozen of those. I came to many of Nick’s high school basketball games at Regis. I often felt like I was related to the Anderer family. 

Nick credits a year studying abroad in Italy while a junior at Columbia as the experience that drove him to pursue a career in culinary arts. He spent time cooking in New York kitchens, including Larry Forgione’s An American Place, Buzzy O’Keefe’s The Water Club, and Babbo. He then returned to Italy working in kitchens in Rome and Milan. Nick joined the kitchen team of Gramercy Tavern where he served as Sous Chef to Tom Colicchio, and later Executive Sous Chef to Mike Anthony. He went on to open two flagship Italian restaurants - Maialino (2009) and Marta (2014) - with Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, serving as Executive Chef and Managing Partner for both. It has always been his ambition to own his own restaurant. The name Anton’s pays tribute to Anderer’s great, great grandfather, who immigrated to New York City in the late 1800s.
Nick has partnered with General Manager/Beverage Director Natalie Johnson to open (November 11, 2019) a West Village neighborhood place celebrating the food, drink, and spirit of old New York. There is room for 70 inside and when the weather cooperates, 30 in their outdoor seating area. The Saturday I ate lunch there the place was packed and it was pouring rain. Nick classifies his food as comforting, eclectic American cuisine with deep European influences. The menu spotlights local farmers through a selection of salads, vegetables, and NY-harvested shellfish. Nick’s Italian leanings come through in a variety of house-made pasta dishes. Desserts often come from family recipes extending back four generations.

Natalie has put together a 550+ bottle wine list with upwards of 20 wines by the glass. I asked her for her best value wines and she mentioned Sicily, Corsica, and Spain. There are many bottles on the list in the $50-$70 price range. Even in Champagne and Burgundy, there are wines under $100. At the other end of the price range is a Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet 2014 in magnums and priced at $2,850. A Bruno Giacosa Santa Stefano Riserva 1988 priced at $1,350. The space features rich mahogany woodwork, beautiful wrought-iron windows, vintage tableware hand-selected by the team, dramatic florals by Fox Fodder Farm, and a series of still-life paintings the duo commissioned from Georgian artist Vitali Dvali. Anton’s marks Anderer’s first foray as an independent Chef-Owner-Operator, following a successful run with Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, most notably as Executive Chef/Managing Partner for the critically-acclaimed Maialino and Marta. Anderer’s formative years were spent cooking at iconic NYC kitchens, including Larry Forgione’s An American Place, Buzzy O’Keefe’s The Water Club, and Babbo. Most recently, Johnson served as the Beverage Director of Loring Place, a celebrated West Village restaurant from renowned Chef Dan Kluger. She served as a sommelier at Marta where she and Nick first collaborated. 

Anton’s was previously the restaurant Frankie’s 570 from NYC restaurateurs Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli. The two remain connected to the address as silent partners in the new restaurant. Anton’s sits on a block of landmarked 1850s Greek-revival style buildings.

While there, I had a poached salmon salad, an 8-minute egg, radishes, lemon vinaigrette and dill and the Hanger Steak Lorenz with melted onions (named after Nick’s great grandfather (son of Anton). Dessert included a Kiss Me Pudding and a Dark Chocolate Tart, Sour Cream and Olive Oil. 

As of now Anton’s is open for lunch Friday-Sunday & for dinner 7 days/week, (212) 924-0818- http://www.antonsnyc.com