The Musings of Ron Kapon

Guatemala: the Heart of the Maya World

I was looking for a place to visit for five days that would allow me to write several stories. It was early summer so sun and warmth were not important and I did not want to travel through many time zones nor fly for more than five hours. I thought about Costa Rica, Nassau, Dominican Republic, and Aruba among others but eventually chose Guatemala. Its reputation for making great rums, especially Zacapa and Botran, and their Mayan heritage both would make interesting articles. Mexico is to the northwest; Belize to the northeast, Honduras and the Atlantic Ocean on the east; El Salvador and the Pacific Ocean to the south. In Guatemala there are 21 Mayan ethnic groups with 21 different languages of Mayan origin. I was also there during the rainy season (May-September) and the average temperature was around 65-70 degrees.       

My only regret- because of time constraints- was not getting to Tikal, one of the most important cities in the Maya Classic period (from AD 250 to AD 947). Settled in 700 BC it is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It also served as the victorious rebel base in the first Star Wars movie. Over 3,000 structures have been unearthed including temples, palaces, and altars.    

I arrived in Guatemala City in just over 4 ½ hours with the airport 10 minutes from my hotel. Chaotic, congested and polluted it is the largest city in Central America with over three million people- about a quarter of Guatemala’s population. The capital was moved here in 1776 (nice choice of years) after Antigua was destroyed by an earthquake. The city is surrounded on three sides by hills and active volcanoes, including Pacaya which is in constant eruption. Visit the Ixchel Museum (Zone 10) for examples of hand woven textiles and costumes from the indigenous people. The historic center contains the obligatory central plaza with the National Palace, Metropolitan Cathedral and nearby Central Market and Natural History Museum. My guide kept talking about the spectacle of Holy Week with its processions, candlelight vigils and sawdust floral carpets during that most important week in this predominately Catholic country. I stayed in Zone 10 known as Zona Viva, the capitol’s hub of business. There you can find shopping and entertainment which is a world apart with luxury hotels, restaurants and clubs. If I was worried about my safety before I came I never had a single problem walking the streets. These are some of the friendliest people I have ever met. Of course, every bank, jewelry store, money exchange and hotel had armed guards both representing the police and private security.      

In about an hour I was in Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage site, considered the best preserved colonial city in Spanish America. As mentioned above it served as the county’s capitol for more than two centuries. The streets are still cobblestone and I had a chance to visit both a coffee plantation and jade factory (I bought several necklaces from street vendors at 1/3 the price). The Spanish Colonial style is evident in its 17^th and 18^th century houses, churches, squares, parks and ruins all within walking distance from my hotel. I could view the three volcanoes including the active Fuego. There are 40 language schools located within the town making it the main destination in Central America for travelers wishing to learn Spanish.      

After an early breakfast we drove the two hours to Chichicastenango (I just love the name of that town) where I spent several hours visiting the largest indigenous clothing and crafts market in Central America. The marketplace has operated continuously for over a thousand years (Thursday & Sunday). Santo Thomas Church was built in 1540 and I watched the Sunday services blending Mayan and Catholic rituals.      

Another hour and we reached Panajachel which is 5,100 feet above sea level and 15 degrees above the equator making for a sunny cool climate. Guatemala’s highland area is a showcase for the Maya culture. It is here where the rites, the traditions, the teachings and the ways of life continue to express themselves. It is the gateway to explore the three indigenous villages around Lake Atitlan famous for its women weavers. Aldrous Huxley described it as “the most beautiful lake in the world.” There are boat cruises available to take you around and across the lake.    

Guatemalan Gastronomy- Except for one meal where I was served old lettuce and tomatoes that caused a brief case of Montezuma’s Revenge I had a great time eating only local foods. One of the staple foods for Guatemalans is corn. It was used even before the arrival of the Spaniards, and the Maya held that it was the substance from which humans were formed. Other common foods are beans, cheeses, corn tortillas, avocado and rice. Because the country sits between two oceans there is an abundance of seafood including Dorado, Snapper, Squid, Shrimp and Tuna. The south coast produces sugar cane and different types of citrus fruits like papayas, watermelons, mangoes, bananas and peaches. There is the omnipresent soup served very hot especially Tapado or seafood soup. I ordered it for every lunch and dinner. In the highlands the lower temperatures are ideal for growing wheat, sorghum, barley and especially their fabulous coffee. I was also introduced to Jocon which is chicken with a green sauce prepared from a base of fresh coriander. I skipped the offering of armadillo and iguana. The only gifts I brought home with me were bottles of 23 year old rum and several pounds of coffee.      

In 2 ½ hours I was back in Guatemala City and ready for the second half of my visit drinking the greatest rums in the world. But that is for another article.         

BEFORE YOU GO-
www.visitguatemala.com – Guatemala Tourism Board- (800) 464-8281
www.quintareal.com.gt – Quinta Real Hotel
www.ichotelsgroup.com – Intercontinental Real Guatemala
www.hotelposadadedonrodrigo.com – Hotel Posada de Don Rodrigo

The New South Africa

I was last in South Africa 28 years ago. I remember the “whites only” beaches; the Carlton Hotel in Johannesburg (now part of the convention center); Nelson Mandela was unknown outside a small circle of people (and in prison); The Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town (still going strong); The Blue Train (the Orient Express of Africa); Kruger National Park (once the top game park in South Africa); Stellenbosch and the wine route (mentioned later in this story). How had the country changed since my last visit?

Nelson Mandela is semi retired and ageing (88); the mixture of Indians, Colored (local term for mixed race); blacks and whites seem to be in harmony. There is a democratically elected President Thabo Mbeki finishing his final term in office; the economy may be the strongest in Africa (although there are still large pockets of poverty, unemployment and sub-standard living conditions). Of the 44 million people 75.2% are Africans, 13.6% white, 8.6% colored and 2.6% Indian.

The country is divided into 9 provinces, two of which are ruled by kings (KwaZuluNatal and the Eastern Cape). There are 11 different languages spoken and often little tolerance of other cultures, a nuance that escaped me 28 years ago. South African Airways flew our group of 5 journalists to Johannesburg and on to Durban, the country’s second largest city and known as the surfing capitol of the world (although Hawaii and Australia might disagree). The flight is 17 hours with one stop and arrives the evening of the following day (7 hours ahead of NYC). SAA Business Class had fully reclined seats and I actually slept 5 hours. An hour’s flight and we were in Durban (part of KwaZulu-Natal) and ensconced at the 5 Star Beverly Hills Hotels, a few miles outside the city center and along the Indian Ocean. Must visits include the UShaka Marine World with one of the world’s largest marine aquariums (Sea World) and Wet & Wild Water Park, all included in a single admission. The Sibaya Cultural Show featuring a functioning Zulu village is behind the Sun International Casino. I especially enjoyed the “Golden Mile” beach promenade and watching the surfers do their thing.

We took a day side trip to Ixopo for a history lesson. Alan Paton in Cry the Beloved Country (reenergized as an Oprah Book Club Selection)-“There are hills, grass covered and rolling and beautiful beyond the singing of it”. The book inspired the 1951 original movie featuring Sydney Poitier and the 1995 remake starring James Earl Jones. We rode the 1939 steam locomotive and its narrow gauge tracks that were used in the newer film version. The train dropped us off at the Carisbrooke Elementary School where the original movie was partially filmed. We were sitting comfortably and eating a typical meal while many of the children were barefoot and on their way back home to tend to their chores. I wasn’t entirely at ease having the children “perform” for us. One of their classmates had just died in an accident and I could see the sorrow in their young eyes.

I would recommend a less strenuous drive going south from Durban into the Eastern Cape Province through the Wild Coast region (formerly known as the Transkei) to Umngazi River Bungalows. The Eastern Cape is the second largest of the 9 provinces with 14% of the total land (2.5 million acres), 6.8 million people and a malaria free area for viewing the Big 5 game (Lion, Elephant, Rhino, Buffalo & Leopard). I wish we had time to visit the Elephant National Park and its 400 plus packaderms. The Eastern Cape was both home to the current President Mr. Thabo Mbeki as well as Steve Biko, who began the Black Consciousness Movement and in 1977 died mysteriously while in police custody. Nelson Mandela was born there and still keeps a home in the Eastern Cape. We visited his museum which was opened in 2000 and consists of three sites. One where he was born, another where he grew up and the third the “long walk to freedom” exhibition (he spent 27 years in prison). “Each time one of us touches the soil of this land we feel a sense of personal renewal.”

The Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa began as a trading post in 1929. In 1933 three huts were built and in 1993 the Goss family bought it and expanded to 66 bungalows with a capacity of 144 people. I could have lived just on the wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables but the meals had lots of other choices. When the weather cooperates eat outside overlooking the pool and lagoon or see if you can book the underground wine cellar known as the Green Door for dinner. Fresh orange juice and the local newspaper are delivered every morning. This is Africa where livestock roam at will- including the highways- so drive carefully and skip the night driving or be prepared to run into animals.  I sat down by the boat dock and dipped my feet in the water feeling very much at ease until one of the rangers rushed over to me and pointed out the two hippos only a few yards away that I thought were tree trunks. I was told the hippopotamus kill more people than any other animal in Africa as they are intensely territorial.

I recommend continuing past the Mandela Museum East London (one million people), along the Indian Ocean and then inland to Pumba Private Game Reserve. The areas have wonderful names such as The Wild Coast (Port St. John area); Sunshine Coast (East London area) & Garden Route (Port Elizabeth area). If you fly into Port Elizabeth you can arrange a transfer (1 ¼ hours) to Pumba for $125 for your entire party. There is an alternative to driving or flying- the Wild Coast Meander “take a walk on the wild side”. Thirty miles in five days with 3 Star hotels at night and all meals and transfers for $750. You walk along the coast and they have locals follow behind carrying your bags.

Pumba was the highlight of the entire trip. This 5 Star property has 8 stone-walled thatched waterfront cottages with a private deck and plunge pool. Please don’t think “roughing it.” The cottages are air conditioned with a fireplace and huge bathroom. There is a small kitchen, large living room and you are but steps from the dining room. We were warned about walking off the lighted path at night and one of the guests came face to face with two rhinos that were grazing less than a hundred yards from our cottages.  The entire Eastern Cape Province is malaria free so there is no need for pills. The rates are all inclusive; including two game drives a day and average $500 per person double occupancy. We got to see three of the Big Five including a lioness on the attack and watched her bring her kill to her cubs.  Most lodges also have a day safari which includes a game drive and lunch and should cost under $150. We spent the first afternoon at Amakhala Game Reserve which is a 4 Star property run by a husband (vet) and wife (5^th generation) team. They have 6 lodges on their 14,000 acre reserve with rates from $250-$450 per person during the high season of October through April.

I spent a few hours in Port Elizabeth before flying to Cape Town and my wine tour (that is another story). As a center for the auto industry this city of 1 ½ million is centered on the casino/boardwalk area. There are cinemas, a 9 hole golf course, bowling, shops and restaurants. I had lunch at 34 Degrees South. My one hour SAA flight brought me to the third largest city in South Africa- Cape Town and its 3 ½ million inhabitants. Called the Gateway to the Wine Route (the largest in the world) you are less than an hour from Stellenbosch and the vineyards. In 1990 Nelson Mandela took his “walk to freedom” here.

I hope not to wait another 28 years before returning to South Africa.

For More Information:

 www.zulu.org.za 

 www.ushakamarineworld.co.za 

 www.sibaya.co.za 

 www.futurenet.co.za/pcngr 

 www.mandelamuseum.org.za 

 www.umngazi.co.za

 www.wildcoastholidays.co.za 

 www.amakhala.co.za 

 www.gardenroute.org 

 www.pumbagamereserve.co.za 

 www.flysaa.com 

 www.southafrica.net 

 www.ectourism.co.za 

 www.ecprov.gov.za 

 www.kzn.org.za 

 www.saaholidays.net 

British Columbia Wine

Part Two

All throughout my 8 days spent in British Columbia I kept hearing “why are you here in mid-December and not mid-July?" I like to travel when hotels, restaurants and wineries are not busy, leaving me a greater share of their resources and service. I arrived in Vancouver and spent two nights at the centrally located art-filled boutique Listel Hotel Vancouver along with its O’Doul’s restaurant (a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence winner). Editors Note- Do not rely on the TSA rules about what you can carry aboard your plane. Canada has different regulations and I almost lost my 40-year-old beard trimmer, which cannot be carried in your hand luggage in Canada. Maybe it is a trend but Air Canada has become a flying restaurant where food is no longer included, but sold, even on their transcontinental routes.

Conde Nast Traveler 2004 voted Vancouver, with its 2 million inhabitants, the best city in the Americas. It has mild (rainy) climate, breathtaking scenery (skiing just a half-hour away) and great dining (think San Francisco with mountains.(Try La Terrazza & Nu restaurants). Take the Trolley with its 23 stops to see all the sights including: Granville Island (public market, restaurants & galleries); Yaletown (shops, clubs, restaurants); Stanley Park (second largest urban park to NYC Central Park & its world renowned totem poles); Capilano Suspension Bridge (450 feet of cable suspended over 230 foot gorge and constantly swaying). Take a local bus from outside Capilano to the foot of Grouse Mountain (15 minutes from downtown). You can ride America's largest aerial tramway up 3,700 feet for lunch or dinner or to ice skate, snowboard, ski or view all of Vancouver from the observation deck.

I took the float plane (pontoons) on a 45-minute flight to Vancouver Island and the city of Victoria. Crush Wine Tours took me on a visit to several wineries and to Merridale Estate Cidery (none are sold outside British Columbia). I lunched at the Aerie Resort (1/2 hour outside Victoria), which is a member of the Relais & Chateaux group. Then overnight at the 5 Star Hotel Grand Pacific overlooking the Inner Harbor. Also worth seeing is Olde Town (shops & restaurants) and the oldest Chinatown in Canada. I couldn’t help noticing the very large Asian population, both visitors and residents.

Another 45 minute flight and I reached Kelowna to start my Okanagan wine adventure. A rental car is really the only way to see the area. The Manteo Resort is a half hour from the airport on Okanagan Lake.  It includes indoor and outdoor pools, fitness center, banquet facilities, townhouse family rentals and water sports. I can only imagine how packed it is during the summer. Kelowna is a town of 103,000 with a six block cultural district of galleries, restaurants, art galleries, museums, antique shops, bookstores and a wine museum & VQA wine shop (see Part One). The promenade along the lake has an area where outdoor summer concerts are held.

Many of the wineries I visited sell out their entire production on-site and through restaurants, independent wine stores and province operated stores (the system is far too complicated to explain but taxes and fees are high; think 30 to 50% above US prices). The province just to the east Alberta is completely private with lower prices.

My first visit was Summerhill Pyramid Winery just 10 minutes from my hotel and owned by transplanted New Yorker Steve Cipes. The winery is in the shape of a pyramid, is certified organic and quite a tourist attraction (we ate dinner at his restaurant). His Cipes sparkling wine won accolades from the New York Times & Wall Street Journal but he pulled out of the New York market 10 years ago (not enough supply) but is going back in 2006. Mission Hill Family Estate Winery is probably the Okanagan’s most widely recognized label. Its new building reminded me of the Robert Mondavi Winery and is geared for tourists with catering facilities and a restaurant. The 150,000 case winery is on a bluff overlooking Kelowna and is available in New York.

Out toward the Kelowna airport is Gray Monk Estate Winery with availability in parts of the US with New York distribution sometime in 2006. Its Siegerrebe won Best White Wine at the 2004 Eastern Wine Competition. There are about 77 miles between Kelowna and Osoyoos (10 minutes from the Washington State border) where all my winery visits were located. Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, where I had lunch, is one hour south of Kelowna in Summerland and is part of the Vincor group. Outside Canada Vincor includes: Hogue in Washington State, RH Phillips in California & Kim Crawford in New Zealand. Inside British Columbia their holdings are: Inniskillin Niagara (available in US) and Inniskillin Okanagan (not in NY); Jackson-Triggs Niagara & Okanagan, both sold in New York; Nk’Mip Cellars (pronounced Inkemeep) not sold in NY; Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards in Okanagan Falls (also unavailable in NY).

The BC Wine Information Center is in Penticton (15 minutes south of Summerland). Heading south from Penticton, along the scenic waterfront route of Skaha Lake, I stopped at two small wineries Pentage and Blasted Church, both in Okanagan Falls. Lunch was at Toasted Oak Bar & Grill (great wine list & a VQA wine shop) in Oliver, which touts itself as The Wine Capital of Canada. The Nk’Mip Cellars Winery in Osoyoos is the first Native American operated winery. The tribe (called band in Canada) owns thousands of acres of land, a new hotel property, a golf course and cement company.

What I discovered in my four days in the Okanagan were serious winemakers, vineyards, many terraced almost straight up (think Germany) that get lots of sugar and fruit during the summer and very little rain (but lots of snow melt from the mountains) and a feeling I have discovered the “next great wine region.” From 100 degrees in the summer to 30 degrees in the winter (ice wine) many of the wineries have restaurants, gift shops, catering facilities and most sell out their production through mailing lists and on-premise sales. You cannot ship wine from Canada to the US through UPS or FedEx without paying huge sums for duty, customs, brokers etc. Look for Okanagan wines that are available in the US.

TRAVEL AND WINE INFORMATION-                              

www.inniskillin.com
www.hellobc.com  (800) HelloBC                      
www.summerhill.bc.ca
www.graymonk.com
www.tourismvancouver.com      
www.grousemountain.com            
www.missionhillwinery.com                                       
www.winecountry-canada.com (Toasted Oak Grill)   
www.listel-vancouver.com                                 
www.sumacridge.com
www.laterrazza.ca  (great wine list)                
www.whatisnu.com    (very inventive cuisine)
www.manteo.com
www.harbour-air.com  (float planes)
www.tourismvictoria.com
www.crushwinetours.com
www.hotelgrandpacific.com
www.aerie.bc.ca
www.totabc.com (Okanagan)
www.vacationshappenhere.com  (Penticton)
www.nkmipcellars.com
www.jacksontriggswinery.com
www.merridalecider.com
www.blastedchurch.com
www.hmvineyard.com (Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards)
www.vincor.ca

British Columbia Wine; The Tip of the Iceberg

Canada has been making wine since the 1800’s and today there are over 400 wineries throughout our northern neighbor. Many of you are familiar with the ice wines from the Ontario region just over the border from Niagara Falls, but I was surprised at the blank stares when I mentioned I was going to British Columbia to write a wine story.     

The region is small with most of the wineries classified as “boutique”. Several American & Australian wineries produce more wine than the entire BC region. The areas I visited are at the northernmost tip of wine making and vine growing (Germany is in the same latitude) where the vines struggle to grow ripe fruit with a shorter growing season. I never saw tour buses or lines of people at the tasting rooms and at most I met the owner or winemaker pouring wines for the visitors. The summers are hot and most grapes are harvested in a long, cool and sunny autumn; sometimes even in winter. Here we find the grapes left to freeze on the vine in order to produce Ice wine, the tip of the iceberg.     

The wines of British Columbia are mainly crisp, fruity white wines (Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling) and late harvest dessert wines, including the ubiquitous Ice wine. More red wines are being grown in the southern end of the Okanagan Valley where the hot, dessert climate and long growing season are suitable to the production of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Pinot Noir. From Vernon in the north through Kelowna to Osoyoos in the south is about 125 miles.    

British Columbia, the most westerly province in Canada, has five designated Viticultural Areas (DVA). There were 110 wineries and 5,400 acres of wine grapes located in two wine-growing regions when I visited the region in the winter of 2005. The Okanagan (70 wineries & 95% of the province’s wine) and Similkameen Valleys (4 wineries) have hot, dry summers, chilly nights (the only classified desert area in Canada with less than six inches of rain a year; west of the Coastal Mountain Range in Vancouver it rains a lot), low humidity, long hours of sunshine, with the water from Lake Okanagan used for irrigation. Those valleys, dating back to the mid 1800’s, are located in the central southern part of the province along the border of Washington State (part of the Okanagan Valley is located in Washington State). The coastal regions of the Fraser Valley (10 wineries) and Vancouver Island (25 wineries and an hour’s drive north of Victoria) enjoy warm, rainy winters and hot, dry summers. The Gulf Islands (3 wineries) are off the coast of Vancouver Island and formerly were part of that DVA.    

The British Columbia Wine Institute (BCWI) was established in 1990 to create an internationally competitive wine industry. The strategy included the removal of labrusca (Concord) and hybrid grape varieties (Seyval Blanc) and replanting with vinifera varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon). They have adopted the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) seal of approval to wines that pass a taste test and chemical analysis. Wines must be 100% vinifera and all the grapes must be from BC. 95% of the grapes on a label must be from that variety. If a DVA is named then 95% of the grapes must be from that DVA. There are provincial designations (British Columbia) and geographic designations (Okanagan Valley). If an individual vineyard is named it must be within a DVA and 100% of the grapes must be from that vineyard.     

For More Information-

www.canwine.com                                           
www.winesofcanada.com
www.canadianvintners.com                                           
www.winebc.com                                           
www.bcwine.ca

THE ADVENTURE BEGINS- PART 3

MY TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA

At least I got to sleep until 6AM (rather than the 3 & 5AM wakeup calls for my other flights,) before my two hour TACA flight from Lima to Quito Ecuador. I would finally get to meet Paulo Irigoyen, the 23 year old Gray Line South America head, and my guardian angel in Buenos Aires, Lima & Ecuador. He arranged a city tour, dinner with him and his French wife, and I overnighted at the Grand Hotel Mercure which was part of my Galapagos tour package. Justin Laycob and his right hand man Jonathan Borgida are friends of Brian Pearson who took me around Chile. I booked my Galapagos tour through them after finding them on the internet and liking their style. I both called and e-mailed and always received a prompt response. They even agreed to pick up an extra bag with my dirty laundry & cold weather clothe, plus brochures I had collected in the other countries, and get it back to me after my cruise. They found a boat that fit my schedule and worked hard and professionally for their commission. They also deal in tours to Peru, Bolivia and Costa Rica and I highly recommend them.

Quito is the capitol but not the largest city in Ecuador. Their two million is topped by Guayaquil with three million. It is a World Cultural Heritage Site with colonial buildings combined with European Renaissance and indigenous influences. The many churches are mainly in the Old Town area and within walking distance. Quito is only a ½ hour from the equator and there is the obligatory photo opportunity standing on the line between the two hemispheres. At 9,184 feet above sea level it is the second highest capitol in the world (La Paz Bolivia is over 11,900 feet). The center of Old Town is Independence Plaza with the Governors Palace, Municipal Palace, Archbishop’s Palace and the Cathedral (the same in every major city I visited on this trip) anchoring the four sides. We drove up to El Panecillo with a commanding view of the city and climbed even further inside the statue of the Virgin Mary made from over 7,000 pieces of aluminum. I had some problems with the altitude so skipped the brand new cable car ride up 13,000 feet to an active volcano.

The Baltra airport was still closed for repairs so all flights to the Galapagos now were routed through St. Cristobal, a nearby airport which really overburdened the people working there.  This also changed the schedule of the Angelique, their ship of choice, for me. My flight from Quito to Guayaquil was a swift 30 minutes and then another hour and we landed in St. Cristobal. Customs and immigration took a long time and then we had to wait for four passengers whose flight was late. The good news is Ecuador uses the good old US dollar as its currency so no more slide rule conversions. Even though the Galapagos is part of Ecuador it is 600 mile off the coast and foreign visitors pay a $100 preservation fee; cash only, no traveler’s checks.

The Angelique is a 96 foot sailing yacht, refurbished in 2001, with 8 double cabins (I had the top bunk). There is a shower and toilet for every cabin which is the size of a very small closet. I would call the cabins Spartan, but then again I only slept there. An hour after leaving port we arrived at the sheer-rock outcrop of Leon Dormida or “sleeping rock.” This tiny island has no landing area so we floated around the sides and saw our first example of the boobies; red, blue and masked (don’t write to me I didn’t name the birds). Lunch and dinner were excellent and featured Ecuadorian specialties (potato soup, fish, lamb, pork etc). There is nothing to do on the boat after dinner and our nightly preview of the next day’s islands, so it was a 9PM bedtime and 9 hours sleep. (Perhaps it was my evenings that were Spartan.)  The Angelique sailed throughout the night to arrive at our first stop, Genovese Island, the most northernmost of all the islands. It was a ½ hour climb to the top of the cliff passing by hundreds of sea bird nests. Half a dozen sea lions slept on the sandy beach while we went snorkeling and swimming. That afternoon we moved across the island to Darwin Bay with even more marine life.

An eight hour nighttime sail proved that the patch and wristbands did work as I never felt seasick the whole trip. Our first stop was North Seymour Island and frigate birds, sea lions, marine iguanas, crabs and lots of boobies, many mating or hatching their young. At no time did any of them seem to pay any attention to the human species. Another refreshing swim among the curious and very friendly sea lions and then it was off to South Plaza Island with its rocky trail along the edge of the cliffs abounding with seal lions and land iguanas.

San Cristobal was where we started and ended our Galapagos adventure. Four days and three nights were perfect as we saw all the marine life we could ever hope to see. Larger ships offer entertainment and nighttime activities and are, of course, much more expensive. Our boat continued on a different route so you could have 7 days and not duplicate any island. Please remember the Galapagos is not for people who have trouble walking. Lots of rocks, steep climbs and many places to fall make it a beautiful oasis of nature but not for the faint of heart or feet. We packed and were ready to go ashore and spend an hour at the San Cristobal Interpretation Center learning all about the history, geology and animal life of the islands. To the airport and my flight to Guayaquil where I overnighted at the 5 Star Oro Verde Hotel (again part of my Galapagos package) and finally, after three glorious weeks, return to the Baked Apple.

Guayaquil is the largest city in Ecuador and sits at sea level, unlike Quito which is inland. Once again the Southern Exploration folks met me at the airport and walked me to the cargo area where I retrieved my spare bag they so graciously had shipped from Quito. I broke one of my cardinal rules which are- don’t buy anything from a street vendor (last time I did that in France I ended up with food poisoning). It was the most delicious large juicy grilled hamburger I have ever tasted with lettuce and tomato and only $1.50. That was my lunch as I awaited my Gray Line city tour.

I am in love with Guayaquil; what a change a mayor can make. Once considered one of South America’s most dangerous, dirty and crime ridden cities Mayor Ab. Jaime Nebot has turned the city around (maybe he studied under Mayor Giuliani). The Malecon (promenade) stretches two miles along the Guayas River and includes art exhibitions, monuments, botanical gardens, cafes, restaurants, docks and a replica of a pirate ship. The city is named after the indigenous chief Guaya and his wife Quil; is located on the Pacific Ocean and is the main port of Ecuador. The central part of the Malecon has a monument to Simon Bolivar & San Martin. Nearby there are four sculptures that represent the earth’s four elements (water, fire, air and earth). The best viewing point in the city is up 444 steps on Santa Ana Hill (yes, I climbed them, slowly) through Los Penas to the lighthouse, chapel and naval museum. The great fire of 1896 destroyed almost the whole city as the wooden houses were stacked next to each other. These homes have been repainted by the residents and many have opened shops, restaurants and cafes on their first floors. There is no automobile traffic and everything must be carried up the stairs.

Other things worth seeing are: Seminario Park filled with iguanas, fish and birds; the only Imax theatre in South America; The Municipal Palace, the cities architectural jewel; the Cathedral (Ecuador is over 95 % Catholic); the Modern Art Museum; the Genedal Cemetery, the second largest in South America, after the one in Buenos Aires and the nearby flower market. Congratulations Mr. Mayor; if I had known what a fabulous city you had I would have stayed another day.

American Airlines upgraded me and in four hours we landed in Miami and I transferred to my LaGuardia flight home. Twenty one days, perfect weather, only one flight delay. Every hotel a gem; every scheduled city tour on time; every meet and greet was there for me; every airport or hotel transportation was on time. It does not get much better. On a scale of 1-100, this trip was a 98.

 

MORE INFORMATION-

www.southernexploration.com 

 www.aa.com 

 www.ecuador.us.com 

 www.graylineecuador.com 

 www.galapagosislands.com

THE ADVENTURE BEGINS- PART 2

MY TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA

Part 1 ended as I flew to Santiago Chile. Brian Pearson, owner of Santiago Adventures, was waiting at the airport to drive me to The San Cristobal Towers, part of the Starwood Luxury Collection (Diplomat, Phoenician, and Gritti Palace etc). Built in 1998 it is attached to the older Sheraton Santiago Hotel. The 21^st floor lounge had a sumptuous breakfast spread and fabulous views of the city. My modern, large room had a bathroom the size of a Manhattan studio apartment. Brian arranged a private car & his top guide for a four hour city tour. It was winter holiday break with lots of families and locals in the streets and shops. Viewing the Presidential Palace, Plaza de Arms and the luxury estates on San Cristobal hilltop reminded me how much Santiago, with modern buildings, parks, wide streets and the warm winter weather, was like Buenos Aires.

An interesting side note to the Chilean free economy; Micros, are those yellow buses that are privately owned, with the drivers working on commission, based on the number of passengers picked up. It is the Indianapolis 500 on the streets that soon will be changed as there are too many accidents; they will become a public transit system. Concesinario’s are private toll roads in and around Santiago as well as the road to Valparaiso and the Pan American Highway (drive from Alaska to Ushuaia at the southern tip of Chile). Private companies will maintain the roads; collect the tolls, with a 30 year old lease. The free roads tend to be narrow, bumpy and crowded (are you reading this Mayor Bloomberg?). By the way there is an excellent Metro system.

If God had created a vineyard it would have been Errazuriz in the Aconcagua Valley, about an hour from the airport. My full wine story will appear elsewhere but having lunch on the terrace with bright sunshine, warm temperatures, the view of the snow-covered Alps and the hillside terraced vineyards made me glad to be a wine writer. There are wineries north, east and south of Santiago all within an hours drive. Brian, whose company organizes wine tours, offered to drive me during my two days in the Colchagua Valley two and a half hours south of Santiago. Alfredo Vidaurre, one of the owners of Montes winery, put us up at the Santa Cruz Hotel overnight. If Argentina is beef, Chile is fresh seafood (think Chilean Sea Bass). Sebastian Lopez of Concha Y Toro put me up at the Hotel Atton back in Santiago as I had a 6:50AM flight to Lima. He even arranged a car to pick me up and I zipped to the airport in 15 minutes for my TACA 3½ hour flight to Lima.

My Gray Line connection came in handy here as a representative of Viajes Pacifico, the Gray Line agent in Peru, drove me to the Sofitel Royal Park Hotel. I never saw another guest the day I stayed there. This was still the winter holiday vacation time (think Thanksgiving/Christmas/New Years period) and many people were on holiday. I walked around the San Isidro neighborhood which is residential with hotels and restaurants. I was picked up for my city tour and learned Lima had 8 million people, representing 30% of the country. It was founded in 1535 by the Spanish Conqueror Francisco Pizarro. The next day was a national holiday marking the founding of the country and everything was closed for a very long weekend. This is getting to be a habit as Uruguay celebrated their national holiday while I visited 1 ½ weeks ago. Lima is a UNESCO World Heritage city for its colonial architecture and is a melting pot of mixed-blood people and cultures, again like Uruguay. There is the obligatory Plaza Mayor (main square) with its Presidential Palace, City Hall, Cathedral and Archbishops Palace sitting on its four corners. It was filled with people getting ready for the national holiday the next day. Nearby are the Iglesia de San Francisco, Iglesia de la Merced and Iglesia de Santo Domingo where San Marco University- the first in South America- was founded in 1551. We visited the ruins of the old wall that once surrounded Lima and glimpsed Acho the oldest bullfighting rink in the Americas and the third oldest in the world.

I moved to the Swissotel in the same San Isidro neighborhood where I was scheduled to stay one night. I was given a room on the executive floor that had the best service I have ever experienced in a hotel. Computers, a full breakfast, lunch snacks, a full dinner and open bar. I had so much fun that I cancelled my stay at another hotel to stay here an extra night. This chain is owned by the Raffles folks and now I understand why I loved the hotel so much. My last day in Lima I was taken 19 miles south of town on the Pan American Highway to the Pachacamac Temple, built entirely of clay and including the Temple of the Sun & Moon. After lunch it was off to the Mujico Gold Museum that is world-renowned for its gold, silver and brass collection from the pre-Inca & Inca cultures. A separate part of the museum contains the very large Weapons of the World area.

  I spent a day and a half in the Ica, Pisco, Paracas area that is 3 ½ hours south by luxury bus from Lima. One of the highlights was an hour and a half flight from Ica over the Nazca Lines (80 miles away). There are over 70 giant figures and 10,000 lines imprinted in the earth (monkeys, spiders etc) dating from 500AD. They are referred to as Geoglyphs by pre-Inca cultures of the Nazca and Paracus Indians. I stayed overnight at the Pacific Ocean seaside resort the Hotel Paracas. Early the next morning I joined a group on a fast boat ride to the Ballestas Islands which is home to sea lions, monkeys, penguins, otters, dolphins and many many birds. It was back on the bus for my return trip to Lima and the end of country number four.

 

MORE INFORMATION-

www.visit-chile.org 

 www.santiagoadventures.com 

 www.starwoodhotels.com/luxury 

 www.graylineperu.com 

 www.peru.org.pe 

 www.lima.swissotel.com 

 www.sofitel.com 

THE ADVENTURE BEGINS- PART 1

MY TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA

The 70^th birthday Gods continued to shine on me as the predicted thunder showers on my birthday never materialized. Leaving for a three week trip to South America I was upgraded by Aerolineas Argentinas and slept six hours, the most ever on an airplane. The reasons I choose the Southern Hemisphere for my vacation was all of the countries I visited were at or near the time zone in New York. With a stable economy and over 5 million visitors in 2004 Argentina was a bargain for my US Dollars. The taxi ride from the airport was $20; the driver carried my bag and did not expect a tip. I was staying privately at a 20^th floor three bedroom doorman building in a very nice neighborhood, purchased three years previous for under $40,000. My host Steve Maggi is a Georgetown Law graduate who practiced in Miami, moved to Argentina several years ago, and is now in the real estate business. Our steak dinner for four with two bottles of wine at La Caballeriza Steak House cost less than $70.

It was off by subway (25 cents) to the newly developing Puerto Madero neighborhood glittered with marinas, high- rises, boutiques and restaurants. We looked at El Faro a still incomplete 45 story twin luxury apartment buildings overlooking a nature preserve, with the river on the other side. It includes swimming pools, a gym, tennis courts, private parking etc. The apartments were selling for under $600,000 for 2,300 square feet (try $3 million in New York these days). The Plaza de Mayo is in front of Puerto Madero and contains the Presidential Palace and most of the government buildings.

The next day Pablo Irigoyen, the head of Gray Line South America (more about him in Part 2; by the way he is all of 23), set up a private car and guide to show us Buenos Aires. The Paris of South America has lots of parks in the Palermo area and on weekends there are even fitness instructors giving free exercise advice. La Boca, at the mouth of the port, was tourist central with its zinc roofed wooden houses painted in very bright colors and street performers everywhere (think Greenwich Village). The San Telmo area is full of antique shops (as well as more tourists) and being Sunday there was a very large street fair. At night this becomes Tango Central (rent Scent of a Woman; hoowah!). The car let us off in the Recolta area where the 19^th century Recolta Cemetery is a tourist attraction in itself and most of the wealthy folks are laid to rest. We found Eva Peron’s resting place and then moved on to the nearby BA Design Center featuring the latest in home furnishings.

  Steve plays semi-pro basketball for Club Arquitectura and off we went to his game. My only complaint was the lack of heat in the gym. I sat for two hours in a sweater and coat as the temperature hovered around 40 degrees. I think it was warmer outside.

Close your eyes and find Uruguay on a map. We took a ferry from Buenos Aires  for a three hour ride to Montevideo (don’t think Staten Island Ferry, this is a luxury, high-speed boat with food, a duty free shop and it carries cars) that crosses Rio de la Plata, the widest river in the world (200 miles). I arrived in time for the parade honoring the 175^th anniversary of the establishment of the country. Half the country is along the coastline from the Rio de la Plata to the Atlantic Ocean. Unless you have business in Montevideo or are using it as a base for a wine tour, as we were, skip the capitol. It lacks the elegance and beauty of Buenos Aires and it seemed no one has fixed the sidewalks since its founding. Lots of underclass, pan-handlers and horses carrying the worldly belongings of the driver. Opened just one month ago our hotel, the Four Points by Sheraton, was overstaffed for the few guests staying there. The breakfast buffet was magnificent and I hoped they didn’t throw out all the excess food. If you are coming in their summer which is December through March try Punta Del Este 90 miles east or any of the myriad of beach towns. Running along the Plata River, the 20 mile long Rambles is one of the best places to live, eat and exercise. We had a great seafood lunch at La Casa Violeta with our host/guide for the three day visit Laura Nervi of INAVI (National Institute of Viti & Viniculture). Tannat is the primary grape grown here (as well as in Madiran in southern France). It is full bodied, oak-aged and goes perfectly with the country’s love of beef. Had dinner in the Port Market at El Palenque, the most famous grill restaurant in town where owner Emilio Bortela told me he will be opening a branch in New York this winter.

Next day we met with Benjamin Liberoff, the Vice Director of Tourism for Uruguay, who wanted my feedback about increasing tourism. Then it was lunch and dinner at wineries. The last day we drove to Colonia Del Sacramento (3 hours) on the northeast coast along the Rio de la Plata. This UNESCO World Heritage City (think St. Augustine) is the oldest city in the country. Eleven times the city changed hands from Portugal to Spain to Portugal to Spain etc. Therefore the Old Town architecture is a blend of both cultures. Many Argentineans purchase second homes here as the short ferry ride (one hour) and many beaches allow for short weekend commutes. After lunch at the funky Height Asbury style El Drugstore in Old Town and a climb to the top of the lighthouse, we got on the ferry for our return to Buenos Aires.

In one hour I was in Mendoza, the heart of the Argentinean wine industry. I had last been there in 1980 when the country was under military rule. The Grand Hyatt sits smack dab in the center of town and was my home for two nights. There was a lot of activity around the hotel since there was a casino located there. Sebastian Gonzalez of Pro Mendoza (winery rather than tennis) set up my extensive winery visits. It worked like clockwork as each winery sent a car to pick me up at the previous winery and bring me to their facility. It was lunch and dinner at wineries and I never got to see anything else of Argentina’s third largest city.

  I caught the 24 hour flu which literally lasted 24 hours. Several of the wineries gave me medicated tea, aspirin and stomach pills. The bug slowed down my tasting schedule and I skipped dinner to get to bed early. It worked and I was off the Santiago Chile for Part Two of the great adventure.

Editors Note- I must have been put on the Lan Chile Do Not Fly list as my problems with the airline continued. I have written elsewhere about the difficulties I had with the US public relations director for the Lan Group. The ONLY reason I bought a ticket on Lan Chile when Aerolineas Argentinas had been so kind to me was to avoid the Mendoza- Buenos Aires- Santiago flight of three hours plus, with layover, as opposed to the less than one hour direct flight. Arriving at the airport to check-in they could not find my ticket or name. I had already checked my bags and realized the confirmation number and record locator were in the checked bag. They wanted to charge me AGAIN for my ticket until I retrieved my luggage and showed them my e-ticket confirmation. Oh Senor we spelled your name Capon. The fact that my credit card was Kapon and the form I filled out was Kapon didn’t seem to matter. They did straighten it out eventually. No Mas- Never Again- Bye Bye For Ever- Lan Group.

 

MORE INFORMATION-

www.aerolineas.com 

 www.promendoza.com 

 www.turismo.gov.ar 

 www.sudamericantours.com.ar (Gray Line)

 www.buquebus.com 

 www.starwood.com 

 www.discoveruruguay.com 

 www.inavi.com.uy