The Musings of Ron Kapon

Southern Delaware- Beyond the Jersey Shore

Truth be told I have been a Jersey Shore guy for years. Before my family moved to the Hamptons as a permanent residence, I spent most summers at the Jersey Shore. Recently, I received an invitation to spend four late spring days visiting Southern Delaware. All I knew about Delaware was that is was the second smallest state in the US, next to Rhode Island. I drove along the New Jersey Turnpike, over the Delaware Memorial Bridge and through Delaware on my way to Maryland, Washington DC, Virginia and points south.

The northern part of the state centers around Wilmington; the central part around the state capitol, Dover (I bet you didn’t know that). Southern Delaware, or Sussex County was a 4 1/2 hour trip on a quiet Sunday morning from my Manhattan garage to my hotel, Boardwalk Plaza in Rehoboth Beach. I am sure the Memorial Day to Labor Day traffic would increase that total greatly. The 84-room hotel is located on the boardwalk and was built in 1991 to look like a Victorian era hotel. I felt I had stepped into a bygone era. The resident parrots and a collection of antiques and period reproductions, as well as the gracious staff dressed in period garb and smiling greeted me. AAA granted the hotel 4 Diamonds and I can see why. Great service, a heavenly bed, bathrobes, large fluffy towels and more. My suite on the no children private concierge 4th floor (city ordinance does not allow heights over 6 stories) gave me access to the private rooftop sundeck and spa tub. There is also a small heated indoor-outdoor spa pool on the lobby level. Every evening the spa jets are turned on and the pool is adults only. I enjoyed a glass of wine from Delaware wineries Nassau Valley Vineyards and Fenwick Wine Cellars while relaxing at the spa pool.

The city’s origin as a seaside resort started in 1873 when the Rehoboth Beach Camp Meeting Association of the Methodist Church was founded to provide for summer religious gatherings. In the Bible in early Hebrew, Rehoboth means “broad places.” The US Natural Defense Council rated the beaches 5 Star for ocean water quality. The boardwalk is small but has miniature golf, arcades and Funland with its bumper cars, pinball machines and especially the Haunted Mansion attraction. Family-owned since 1962 there are 19 rides, with 13 for younger children. Delaware does not have a sales tax, which led to my visit to the three Tanger Oulet Malls on Route 1, just outside town. I had breakfast (they serve lunch & dinner also) in the Victoria’s Restaurant at the hotel. The three-tiered dining room allows a view of the Atlantic from every table, with outdoor dining on the boardwalk patio during the warmer weather. Another morning I stopped at the Bewitched & Bedazzled Bed & Breakfast for a snack & tour. The rooms are straight out of the TV show “Bewitched.” The adjacent home has their rooms named after glamorous movies featuring Humphrey Bogart and Bette Davis. One lunch in town was at the Cultured Pearl restaurant celebrating 20 years at the beach. Specializing in traditional and fusion cuisine with a Sushi Bar and an assortment of 20 Sakes. There are indoor and outdoor decks where one dines surrounded by lush plants, waterfalls and koi ponds. This is a “must see and eat” restaurant in Rehoboth Beach and beyond. I had a pint at Dogfish Head Brewing and Eats on Rehoboth Avenue on my way out of town. I have to wait for a return visit to catch a performance at the Clear Space Theatre, located one block from the Atlantic Ocean; this 335-seat theatre has live theatre and musical entertainment.

Georgetown is located in the center of Sussex County, just 15 minutes from the beach areas and dinner was at the historic Brick Hotel On The Circle. The inn is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Built in 1836 this 14-room gem was completely renovated in 2008, including a vault private wine dining room and rooftop garden. We briefly toured the Sports at the Beach complex just outside Georgetown. It is a 9-acre complex with 13 professionally groomed baseball fields, used May through October. There are recreation areas, dormitories, a pool and concessions. Next door is “Screams at the Beach” featuring enclosed haunted components, walking trails, mazes and haunted hayrides. They are open for only 15 days around Halloween but opened just for our group. A must for all ages.

I did not take the Cape May-Lewes Ferry because it was still on a non-summer schedule which did not match my driving times but did spend several hours touring the terminal that is called “the second most haunted place in Delaware” (#1 is Pea Patch Island, part of Fort Delaware). There was a very interesting presentation by members of the Delmarva Historic Haunt volunteers. The Dutch first settled Lewes in 1631. The seaside town is situated by Cape Henlopen where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Delaware Bay. It is known as the First Town in the First State. We took a walking tour along the Lewes Maritime History Trail, a 4.3-mile route to 10 sites including Cannonball House (1760) known for being struck by British cannon fire during the War of 1812. It also serves as a maritime history museum, housing more than 375 years of nautical history.





Do you know who the greatest gangster in US history was? I guessed Al Capone or John Dillinger. When we toured the Seaford Museum, located in the restored 1930s post office building, I learned it was Patty Cannon. Who? In the early part of the 19th century her gang of 60 kidnapped slaves and free blacks from the Delmarva Peninsula and transported and sold them to plantation owners located further south. Cannon's daughter married Joe Johnson, who became her partner in crime. She died in prison in 1829 after a 30-year reign of terror. We next visited Johnson’s Crossroads where the Cannon gang’s headquarters was located. Johnson’s Tavern still stands as a reminder of this infamous time in Southern Delaware history. Also nearby is Governor William Ross mansion and plantation. Lunch was at Bon Appetit where co-owners Chino & Karen Pedemonte opened just for our group. This is one of western Sussex County’s premiere dining experiences. I thought nothing was free anymore. Outside of Seaford the historic Woodland Ferry has moved cars and people on a 5-minute ride across the Nanticoke River for more than 200 years and it is free.

On the way to dinner we stopped at Prince George's Chapel in the very small town of Dagsboro. When it was built in 1757 the Dagsboro area was still a part of Maryland. The chapel was named for Prince George, who later became King George III of England, and presided over the loss of the American colonies. The state of Delaware bought the property in 1967 and it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1971. I drove back to the coast for an early seafood dinner at Catch 54 on Fenwick Island. We only had a few minutes to run through the nearby Discover Sea Shipwreck Museum. It contains one of the largest collections of shipwreck and recovered artifacts in the Mid-Atlantic. We arrived at Camp Barnes just before nightfall. Since 1947, thousands of children from all over Delaware have attended summer camp here. It is completely free for ages 10 to 13 and supervised by the Delaware State Police. We sat around the campfire at Camp Barnes and heard stories of “Mad Maggie,” the headless ghost of Camp Barnes lore. One of journalists on the trip took a photo of the campfire and showed us a silhouette of a young girl in the campfire. This was no illusion.

This trip has made me a Delawarean (if that is a word). I can’t wait to get back during the summer season. That is hint for another invitation.

For More Information-

www.visitdelaware.com
www.visitsoutherndelaware.com
www.boardwalkplaza.com
www.funlandrehoboth.com
www.tangeroutlets.com/rehoboth
www.cmlf.com
www.culturedpearl.us
www.historiclewes.org
www.beach-fun.com
www.seafordhistoricalsociety.com
www.thebrickhotel.com
www.rehobothbandb.com
www.sportsatthebeach.com
www.screamsatthebeach.com
www.victoriasrestaurant.com
www.bonappetitseafood.com
www.catch54.com
www.delmarvahistorichaunts.com

Best of Cancun

 

The Mexican Mayan Riviera (Cancun South) is, in short, a public relations dream of a name. First and foremost, let’s get the geography lesson out of the way. Quintana Roo is a state in Southeastern Mexico on the eastern part of the Yucatan Peninsula with a population of 1.3 million. The Caribbean Sea is to the east and the nation of Belize is to the south. If the name Quintana Roo is not familiar, look at some of the cities contained within the state; Cancun (800,000), Playa del Carmen and the island of Cozumel enhanced further by the Mayan Ruins at Tulum, Coba, Oxtankah and Kohunlich among others.

In the late 1960’s the Mexican government built the city of Cancun from a small fishing village to attract more American tourists to the area. In 2012 there were over 1.6 million visitors from the US. The hotel zone spans approximately 16 miles with more than 34,000 rooms in Cancun and 40,000 in the Riviera Maya (the largest number in Mexico). There are condos and resorts facing the Caribbean, plus over 2,000 stores. On the island side is Laguna Nichupte with marinas, restaurants, shopping malls, two golf courses (there are 13 in the Cancun/Riviera Maya area) and a few islands. There is only one road so you can’t get lost. Forty minutes southbound and you are at the airport, which is the second busiest in Mexico (after Mexico City). The "Party Zone" is halfway between the Hotel Zone and downtown and it is filled with nightclubs and discos.

Ten Best Hotels-

Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach- a 40,000 square foot Gem spa with 10-step hydrotherapy ritual & 26 treatment rooms and an extensive fitness center. Huge breakfast buffet- Le Basilic Restaurant (AAA 5 Diamond)- 602 suites, all ocean view- lagoon-style pool featuring waterfalls & stone bridges. Across the street from the Convention Center.

Ritz-Carlton Cancun- 5 Diamond AAA- The only Ritz-Carlton property in Mexico featuring a 5-story atrium with stained glass domes. 365 rooms with special club level amenities. Two pools and whirlpool as well as a Kid’s Camp Program.

JW Marriott Cancun- 5 Diamond AAA- Mayan-inspired three-story health spa and fitness center. Indoor and outdoor spa tubs- 448 room in the heart of the hotel zone. An indoor pool sheltered by a two-story pavilion as well as a lagoon-style scuba-diving pool.

Zoetry Paraiso de la Bonita- 5 Diamond AAA- set in a 14-acre property with 90 oceanfront suites. 22,000 square-foot Thalasso Spa with outdoor therapeutic, saltwater pool. 5,000 bottle wine cellar. One-hour catamaran sunset sail included.

Live Aqua Cancun- Voted best hotel in Mexico by Travel & Leisure Magazine 2012. 371 rooms- All-inclusive Adults only (over 18). Same ownership as Coral Beach. Unlimited domestic drinks by the glass. Aqua Club members have private check-in, concierge, breakfast & snacks. Across the street from the La Isla Shopping Mall.

Le Blanc Spa Resort- 5 Diamond AAA-Adults-only, all-inclusive. All-suite hotel. Three outdoor pools, including two infinity pools with swim-up bars. Five international restaurants.

Azul Sensatori- By Karisma- All-inclusive 438-suite hotel caters to kids and teenagers with oversized suites perfect for families. All suites feature in-room Jacuzzi. There are beachfront Gazebo massages.

Hyatt Regency- Located on Punta Cancun with sky-lit, dome-topped atrium and split-level pool with waterfalls and garden cabanas. The pool has sunbathing chairs in the water. 295 guest rooms and suites with private balconies.

Secrets The Vine- Opened August 2012- adults-only- all-inclusive. 495 guest rooms with balconies. Complimentary greens fees at Playa Mujeras Golf Club. 3,000 wines on list. 12,800 square foot Spa by Pevonia. Seven restaurants for dining. Top-shelf spirits included.

Paradisus Cancun- Located in front of Aquaworld Marina . 678-room all-inclusive suite hotel. Rebranded December 1, 2012. Nine-hole par 3 golf course and lighted tennis court. Beach volleyball, 5-acres of swimming pools, water polo, paddle tennis and two lighted tennis courts.

Ten Best Restaurants:

Le Basilic (Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach)- 5 Diamond AAA- Romantic setting with piano player and original artwork on the walls. French haute cuisine with impeccable service. Lounge outside is perfect for a nightcap and live entertainment.

Le Chique (Azul Sensatori)- Adult’s only restaurant as well as lounge areas which are perfect for enjoying cocktails and nightly entertainment. Eight courses that can be paired with wines. The hotel is an all-inclusive and there is a $25 per person surcharge to dine here.

Tempo (Paradisus Cancun)- Michelin Chef Martin Berasategui opened March 2013. Try the mussels poached in wine and fresh ravioli stuffed with lobster. Open wine cellar available for private dining.

Fantino (Ritz Carlton)- 5 Diamond AAA- Try the chef’s tasting menu paired with wine. Or, the watermelon & goat cheese salsa, pear salad and the porchini crusted filet mignon. Elegant attire suggested.

The Club Grill (Ritz Carlton)- 5 Diamond AAA- Seafood, steak and game dishes, along with local Yucatan and Caribbean favorites. Try the roasted duck. Live jazz music in the adjoining lounge.

La Habichuela Sunset- Sister restaurant to the original downtown version. Maya-themed décor and overseen by Armando Pezzotti Junior. Outside dining overlooking the water and sunset. Try seafood ceviche, chilled avocado soup or whole steamed fish.

Labna- Nearby La Habichuela Downtown (same owners)- Authentic Yucatan cuisine “comidas yucateca”. Try the lime soup, pork & chicken pibil and the grouper molinera. Luncheon buffet.

Harry’s Prime Steakhouse & Raw Bar- USDA Prime dry-aged beef and chops as well as Alaskan king crab and Thai tiger prawns. Ask for the cotton candy after your meal. Live music nightly.

Thai Lounge- Dining cabanas create a romantic ambience. Thai chefs and servers make for a sense of authenticity. Try Chicken satay, Pad Thai and shrimp and chicken curry.

Puerto Madero Steakhouse and Fish Marina- Leather placemats on wood tables and nautical artifacts on the walls. Choose ahi tuna, empanadas, Kobe beef and New Zealand lamb. If the weather is nice dine on the terrace.

Ten Best Attractions:

Cancun Underwater Museum- Snorkeling amongst 400 life-size sculptures off the coast of Isla Mujeres. Take a high-powered speedboat to and from the museum. Part of the Cancun National Marine Park.

Aquaworld- A dive center with scuba classes. One can swim with dolphins and during the summer season swim with whale sharks as they migrate to waters north of Cancun. Explore Punta Nizuc coral reef and marine life from the comfort of your own yellow submarine, the Sub See Explorer.

Cancun Maya Museum- Opened September 2012 with 350 artifacts including a 14,000-year-old skeleton. 55,000-square-foot area located in the Hotel Zone. Next to the San Miguelito Archeological area.

Crococun- Interactive conservation zoo located 19 miles from downtown Cancun. Learn about local flora and fauna. Feed spider monkeys; hold a baby crocodile; walk where crocodiles roam free.

  
Talum & Xel-ha- Located two hours from Cancun Tulum is a pre-Columbian Mayan walled city on the banks of the Caribbean. See the Mayan site The Castle, Temple of Masks, City Square & God Chaac. Ten minutes from Tulum is Xel-Ha Aquarium & aquatic theme park with its turquoise lagoons, marine life and tropical flora. The underground river flows into the Caribbean.

Isla Mujeres- Cruise on a trimaran (sailboat with 3 hulls) to Isla Mujeres, which is 4.6 miles long and half a mile at its widest point and sits in an imaginary line between the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. Great for snorkeling and swimming.

Coco Bongo- Nightlife central as Vegas meets Cancun. In the middle of the Hotel Zone with non-stop performances, dancers, gymnasts, movie clips and impersonators. It is not your typical nightclub. You have been warned.

Selvativa Canopy & Cenote Diving-- Thirty minutes south of the Hotel Zone with 12 zip lines that whisk you over the jungle. A cenote is a freshwater-filled limestone sinkhole filled with clear fresh water connected to an underlying cave system. You have to be Open Water certified to dive here but can swim and snorkel without any certification.

Chichen Itza- The ancient capital and most important archaeological zone of the Mayan Empire. A UNESCO World Heritage Site located 2 1/2 hours from Cancun. One of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

 
Xcaret- Eco-archeological nature park with an aquarium, aviary, mushroom farm, orchid garden, butterfly pavilion and a replica of an authentic Mayan Village. There are zip lines and subterranean river swims. Try to stay for the spectacular night show.

Jackie & Me

April 15th is best known as income tax day. But it is also Jackie Robinson Day, commemorating and honoring the day Jackie Robinson made his major league debut. April 15, 1947 was opening day for Robinson's first season in the Major Leagues. Initiated for the first time on April 15, 2004, Jackie Robinson Day is celebrated each year on that date.


On April 12th, 2013 the movie "42" opens starring Chadwick Boseman as Jackie Robinson and Harrison Ford as Branch Rickey.

Jackie and Me tells the story of then thirteen-year-old Tania Grossinger living in the famous Grossinger hotel in New York's Catskill Mountains. Her mother Karla was the social director.  Her cousins owned the hotel but Tania didn't feel like a real Grossinger.  Lots of celebrities came to Grossinger's, but Tania just wanted to meet one man: Jackie Robinson, the first African American to play Major League baseball.

In the early 1950s Robinson arrived with his wife Rachel and their children for a weekend at Grossinger’s. Somehow, he found out that young Tania was a self-styled “terrific ping-pong player,” even if “a little chubby,” and as they shook hands he said, “How about meeting me in the ping-pong room at 4 o’clock?”

Skeptical Tania dismissed it as a pleasantry, but when 4 o’clock rolled round, the telephone in her room rang; It was Jackie. He was in the ping-pong room, where was she?

Tania reminisced, “I think he let me win. He bought me an ice cream soda and said: ‘You’re too young to be so cynical.’ ” A lifetime friendship resulted and Jackie told the young Tania, "You should never be ashamed of who you are. That is what makes you special. Never give up."

I have known and admired Tania for over 30 years. She is the author of Growing Up at Grossinger's and Memoir of an Independent Women as well as the co-author of the novel Weekend. We've crossed paths many times as she is a well known travel writer. This slender 32 page childrens book (recommended for 5-9 year olds) has beautiful illustrations by Charles G. Esperanza and is published (April 1st, 2013) by Sky Pony Press at $16.95.

Cancun-Riviera Maya Wine & Food Festival

The Mexican Mayan Riviera (South Cancun) is, in short, a public relation dream of a name. First and foremost, let’s get the geography lesson out of the way; Quintana Roo is a state in Southeastern Mexico on the eastern part of the Yucatan Peninsula with a population of 1.3 million. The Caribbean Sea is to the east and the nation of Belize is to the south. If the name Quintana Roo is not familiar, look at some of the cities contained within the state; Cancun (800,000), Playa del Carmen and the island of Cozumel enhanced further by the Mayan Ruins at Tulum, Oxtankah, Coba and Kohunich among others.

In the late 1960’s the Mexican government built the city of Cancun from a small fishing village to attract more American tourists to the area. In 2012 there were over 1.6 million visitors from the US. The hotel zone spans approximately 16 miles with more than 34,000 rooms in Cancun and 40,000 in the Riviera Maya (the largest number in Mexico). There are condos and resorts facing the Caribbean, plus over 2,000 stores. On the island side is Laguna Nichupte with marinas, restaurants, shopping malls, two golf courses (there are 13 in the Cancun/Riviera Maya area) and a few islands. There is only one road so you can’t get lost. Forty minutes southbound and you are at the airport, which is the second busiest in Mexico (after Mexico City). The "Party Zone" is halfway between the Hotel Zone and downtown and is filled with nightclubs and discos.

Leaving New York City in mid-March for 80-degree weather was a tough choice when I was invited to the 2nd Annual Cancun-Riviera Maya Wine & Food Festival. Founder & CEO David Amar explained the difference between this four-day celebration and other food and wine festivals: “We donate a portion of the receipts to Cancun’s City of Joy which houses, under one roof, children living in extreme poverty, the elderly living alone, a hospice for the terminally ill and women victims of domestic violence.”

The festival alternates its events between the two areas in their name. Even though I was staying in Cancun at the Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Resort & Spa all the events this year took place in the Riviera Maya area, less than an hour's drive from Cancun. During the four days there was a delicious array of gourmet foods, interactive wine & spirit seminars, late night parties and entertaining cooking demos. The Thursday opening event was a press conference for guests of honor chefs Massimo Bottura & Enrique Olvera. Chef Massimo’s restaurant Osteria Francescam was ranked #5 in the world, has 3 Michelin Stars and is located in Modena, Italy. Chef Olvera’s restaurant Pujol is in Mexico City and was ranked #36. There was a Star Chef Networking luncheon that was by invitation only. Typical dishes of Quintana Roo were prepared and cooked by women chefs. This was followed by a discussion on the future of cuisine. There were afternoon wine tastings on both Thursday and Friday showcasing European and American wines. They took place at the Karima El Dorado Royale Hotel and cost $50 each. That evening at the Paradisus Playa del Carmen Hotel I spent a few hours at the Taste of the New World ($250) where 20 Star Chefs from the Americas exhibited their signature dishes alongside top wines, all in a beachfront location. I ran into New York friends Drew Nieporant (Corton/ Nobu) and Mark Ladner, the executive chef of Del Posto.

Each day Friday–Sunday in the late morning there were cooking demonstrations ($60 each) at the Karisma El Dorado Royale Hotel. Even as the chefs gave out insider tips and culinary advice I did note a sense of friendly competition amongst them. Saturday & Sunday afternoon at the Grand Coral Riviera Maya Hotel the American Express Gourmet Tasting Village took place. For $100 one could sample tapas and desserts from 20 restaurants located in Cancun & Riviera Maya, along with jazz and wine. Friday evening at Hotel Grand Velas there was a tribute dinner ($350) for Chef Massimo Bottura where three top Italian chefs from the United States and two sous-chefs from Massimo’s own restaurant Osteria La Francescana produced a five-course dinner paired with wines selected by MW/MS Doug Frost. Saturday evening at Restaurant Passion at the Paradisus Playa del Carmen Hotel Chef Martin Berasategui and Master of Wine/Master Sommelier Doug Frost held an invitation only dinner.

The closing event of the festival took place Sunday evening at Paradisus Playa del Carmen. This beachfront dinner ($150) featured music, fireworks and entertainment as Italy meets Mexico. The ingredients were all Mexican and top chefs from both Mexico and Italy prepared the food.

Total attendance for the 4-day festival was about 5,000 for the 25 events. Next year the event switches back to Cancun,

For More Information-

www.crmfest.com

www.cancun.travel

www.rivieramaya.com

John Kapon's New Book

 

Luxury Web Magazine said it better than I could so I am publishing their review of my oldest nephew John Kapon's new book- The Compendium- Tasting the World's Finest Wines.

Written for the perceptive and knowledgeable wine aficionado, The Compendium is a wonderful book featuring hundreds of tasting notes from renowned wine expert John Kapon, CEO of Acker Merrall & Condit, America’s oldest fine wine merchant and the world’s largest wine auction house. 

It is a beautifully illustrated book with dozens of photos of the world’s greatest estates and vineyards; The Compendium provides an insider’s glimpse into the exclusive world of iconic wines, from someone who has sampled the world’s finest wines in the company of legendary producers. It is also a very useful tool, because when you look at what the quality of a vintage is for a particular Premier Cru winery, you could also determine what the quality is of wines from the same vintage from producers  located near the described estates; for example if Château d’ Yquem shows a top vintage, wines from Château Suduiraut - which is located down the hill from d’ Yquem - will also be quite exceptional, even though not as pricey as the d’ Yquem. It also contains entertaining stories, from an unprecedented Château Margaux vintner’s dinner held on The Great Wall of China to an over-the-top New Year’s Eve with the world’s renowned champagne expert Richard Julian, Mr. Kapon takes the reader on an unforgettable journey into wine’s greatest moments of the last decade.

To purchase a copy of The Compendium: Tasting the World’s Finest Wines – Volume I ($75, Fine Wine Editions), visit finewinebook.com

Mohegan Sun Winefest 2013

In 1996 on the banks of the Thames River in Southeast Connecticut the history of Mohegan Sun began with the 180,000 square-foot Casino of the Earth. It was a tribute to the heritage of the Mohegan Tribe. The casino was circular with four entrances representing the four seasons of the year. In 2001 the Casino of the Sky opened with four quadrants representing the natural elements of earth, wind, fire and water. It contained the world’s largest fully functional indoor planetarium dome and added 119,000 square-feet of gaming space. In 2002 the 34-story, 1,200 room hotel tower was completed. It included the 20,000 square-foot Elemis Spa and a 10,000 square-foot indoor pool. The Casino of the Wind opened in 2008 and added 45,000 square-feet of gaming space. It symbolizes the tribe’s history and contains a 55-foot tall waterfall. 

Mohegan Sun casino is the among the largest in the US with over 300,000 square-feet of gaming space. Casinos are measured by the amount of gaming space and the number of table games and slot machines. The Mohegan Sun has over 6,000 slot machines and more than 350 table games. The Mohegan Sun arena has a 10,000-seat capacity and is the home of the WNBA Connecticut Sun. There is the more intimate Cabaret Theatre with less than 350 seats and the 300 seat Wolf Den, in the center of the Casino of the Earth, where one can see free nightly shows. Coming with the family? There is a Kid’s Quest facility. 

The Mohegan Sun has over 40 different restaurants, bars and lounges including: Michael Jordan’s, Todd English’s Tuscany, Bobby Flay’s Bar Americain, Ballo Italian Restaurant & Social Club and Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritville. There are 36 shops and specialty stores as well as Mohegan Sun Country Club at Pautipaug. The 18-hole course is less than 30 minutes from the casino. 

The festivities started for the 10^th Annual Sun WineFest Friday night with a Bourbon tasting ($90) and the use of a cigar lounge. Saturday featured a trade and press hour, followed by the Grand Tasting ($80-repeated on Sunday-$70) with over 1,000 wines, craft beers and spirits. Both days had chef demonstrations, including Todd English, Mary Ann Esposito and Donatella Arpaia. I heard the late Saturday afternoon grape stomp was fun for both the participants and spectators. I was told that the Elite Cru Tasting, with a separate admission of $200 (including admission to the Saturday Grand Tasting), was less crowded than the Grand Tasting. Wineries poured included: Duckhorn, Terlato Wines International, Moet Hennessy USA, Gloria Ferrer and Willamette Valley Vineyards. Approximately 10,000 people attended the two days of the Grand Tasting. Saturday night featured a Celebrity Chef Dine Around with separate food, wine and spirits stations ($185). Between the sessions there were winemakers’ seminars and book signings.

The weather forecast was for light snow so I decided not to drive but to take Amtrak to New London (2 1/2 hours) very early on Sunday morning. A casino limo picked me up and in 20 minutes I was relaxing in my room getting ready for the Sunday press and trade preview of the Grand Tasting. It was a great learning experience for me. The 11AM-Noon time also had All Things Food with Bobby Flay ($50 including a copy of his book- Burgers, Fries & Shakers). Since even I could not be in two places at once I chose the early entrance into the Grand Tasting. I sampled a Massachusetts apple ice wine from Still River and learned about the Taste of Massachusetts Wine Festival this June. Mead from the New Hampshire based Moonlight Meadery was another newcomer for me. I was charmed by the handcrafted ceramic wine charms by Dani Titterton.

I had a chance to become reacquainted with old friends including: The San Francisco Wine Exchange, Gallo Family Vineyards, Frederick Wildman & Sons, Winebow, Castello Banfi and Martin Scott Wines. What was different about The Sun Winefest was the multitude of beer tables, in a separate section, up one flight from the main hall. Not being a beer person I did have to try one of Brooklyn Brewery’s offerings. Interspersed among the wine tables, lifestyle and restaurant (extra charge) exhibitors were several spirit exhibitors including: The Balvenie, Beam, Hendrick’s Gin, Kahlua, Sailor Jerry Rum and Reyka Vodka.

A half hour after the doors opened for general admission I was in the fitness center, Jacuzzi and pool resting my aching feet. Refreshed, I returned to the Convention Center in time for the 9^th Annual Mohegan Sun Oyster Open. The nation’s best oyster shuckers competed for a $5,000 purse. Dinner was at Ballo Italian Restaurant and then to the final event of the weekend- Bubbles and Bon Bons ($95). I watched Yannick Passemart, Connecticut on-premise manager for Moet Hennessy USA, saber several bottles of Moet & Chandon Imperial Champagne. Three incredibly talented pastry chefs paired their desserts with Grand Marnier and Moet & Chandon Imperial Champagne. There were chairs and banquets throughout the Cabaret Theatre to sip and nibble. It was a most relaxing way to end the weekend.

Then it was a restful night, breakfast at Tuscany and a reverse limo ride back to the New London Amtrak station. The ride back was relaxing and uneventful as the predicted light snow did arrive but had no effect on my ride home. I look forward to the 11^th annual Mohegan WineFest. 

For More Information- 

www.mohegansun/sitelet/winefest.com

Photos- Ron Kapon- Mohegan Sun- Diane Pontious- Khoi Ton

It Is Not Napa Or Sonoma

When a wine person speaks about the wine regions of Northern California they usually mean Napa, Sonoma and to a lesser degree Lake and Mendocino. When my cousin Colonel Lee Spechler invited me to visit him at his home in Penn Valley California near Beale Air Force base I looked at a Northern California wine map and realized there were lot of regions I had never visited. So began my 8-day driving journey from the San Francisco airport.

I love very early flights since the airplane starts here and so do the pilots. By Noon I was loading my Thrifty rental car and was off for my 85-mile drive to Davis. I was early for my 2:30 PM appointment with Dr. Roger Boulton, a professor in the Department of Viticulture (cultivation or culture of grapes) & Enology (science that deals with wine and wine making) so I checked in at the Palm Court Hotel and walked around downtown Davis, stopping at the US Bicycle Hall of Fame. The symbol for the town is a bicycle and they seem to outnumber the cars. Dr. Boulton toured me around the three academic buildings that are the Robert Mondavi Institute of Wine and Food Science, which opened in October 2008. The Enology Building and Cellar holds over 70,000 bottles of wine, some made by students and many donated by wineries. The Pilot Winery allows students to learn how to operate commercial-scale winery equipment. The adjacent UC Davis Vineyards are 120 acres of wine and table grapes. UC Davis has graduated more than 2,000 winemaker/owners. When people think of MIT for engineers or Harvard for the law, there is no other place like UC Davis for the study of grapes and wine making.

I was in Yolo County where 85% of the land is used for agriculture. There are a large number of artisan winemakers as well as 17 tasting rooms. Very few of the wines I tasted during my 8-day trip were available outside the wineries or their separate tasting rooms. That is the reason I was so excited about this trip. Great wines in very limited quantities and distribution. In 15 minutes I was in Winters where the Main Street business district is on the National Register of Historic Places. There were 6 wineries that came together so I could taste the best wines of the area, including Turkovich Family Wines, Route 3 Wines and Berryessa Gap Vineyards. It was less than hours drive from Davis to The Old Sugar Mill (originally built in 1934) in Clarksburg, home to 10 winery-tasting rooms under one roof. Five of them are micro-wineries who make and process their wines at the Clarksburg facility. I met John Beckman, the owner of the Clarksburg Wine Company, a custom crush facility. They produce about 5,000 cases (one of the larger producers I tasted during this trip). I especially enjoyed the Chenin Blanc VS (Vouvray style) and Remenance (Cabernet Franc, Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon) and the Petite Sirah.

I spent two nights in Old Sacramento staying on the Delta King Hotel, the authentic riverboat that was renovated in 1984 and docked on the Sacramento River, never to move again. The Old Sacramento historic area is a national landmark and state historic park. It is a 28-acre site on the banks of the Sacramento River. The area now houses 125 shops, restaurants and museums. I had a whole day to walk to the Sutter’s Fort, California State Capitol, California State Railroad Museum, Sacramento History Museum and Crocker Art Museum. My highlight of the day was visiting Corti Brothers Fine Wine & Gourmet Foods Italian Grocery Store. To call this a grocery store is like saying the White House is a building. I first met Darrell some 40 years ago. His “specialty grocery store” was established in 1947 and Darrell is one of the world’s foremost authorities on fine wine and food.

Two hours heading southeast brought me into Calaveras County and the picturesque town of Murphys which has 25 tasting rooms, many known for rich red wines such as Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Barbera. Mark Twain gave Calaveras County its claim to fame with his bestselling story ”The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County.” My walking tour took me from the Old Timer’s Museum to the historic Murphys Hotel, in operation since 1856. Before my adventurous cave rappelling at Moaning Cavern Adventure Park I stopped at quirky Twisted Oak Winery for a tasting. I overnighted in a four-poster bed at the Victoria Inn in the historic district where I enjoyed dinner with the owner Michael Ninos.

The next day was a two county day with the morning in Amador County, an hour north. Amador is old vines country; nearly 600 acres of the vines are at least 60 years old. This truly Gold Country, first settled in the early 1800s with historic gold rush towns. I did the mine tour at Kennedy Gold Mine and then visited Scott Harvey Wines as well as Bella Grace Vineyards in downtown Sutter Creek. It is known for Zinfandel, Barbera, Sangiovese, Syrah and Viognier

Another hour's drive north brought me to El Dorado County. It sits at the north end of California’s famed Mother Lode, the 120-mile gold vein discovered in the late 1840’s, which became the site of the Gold Rush. Here the dominant grape is once again old-vine Zinfandel. I saw where gold was first discovered at Marshall Gold Discovery State Park and stopped at David Girard Vineyard. For the first time I got lost trying to find my evenings lodging. The Eden Vale Inn was located about 10 miles outside Placerville and Owner Mark Hamlin guided me mile by mile until I found his magnificent B&B featuring spa tubs, pool, fireplaces, patios and computerized lighting systems in an idyllic setting.

In 1 1/2 hours I was standing in front of my cousin’s house in Penn Valley. Colonel Lee Spechler has been in the Air Force for 19 years and has rented this 4 bedroom newly renovated house in a private gated community about 20 minutes from Beale AFB. We were almost immediately off to meet Lynn Wilson who owns Pilot Peak Winery in Penn Valley. There are beautifully landscaped terraces against the Northern Sierra Foothills where, during the summer, concerts are held. We had a walking tour of Grass Valley and an extensive tour of the Empire Mine State Park. The Sierra Vintners Winery Association arranged for a tasting of Grass Valley Wineries. The next day Lee took me to lunch on Lake Tahoe (the largest alpine lake in North America- Placer County), after we drove through Truckee, over the Donner Pass, and through Squaw Valley (home of the 1960 Winter Olympics). We were back in time to attend a few hours of the Wild & Scenic Film Festival in downtown Nevada City. We met and tasted the wines from 5 wineries at the Nevada City Winery. At 10,000 cases they were probably the largest production of any winery on my whole trip.

I had a 3-hour drive and arrived for my noon appointment with Bryan Kane at The Winery SF on Treasure Island. The Winery SF is San Francisco's largest urban winery on the island between San Francisco and Oakland. The island used to be a naval base and at one time was the main airport for San Francisco. The hangar, built in the 1940s by the Navy, is large enough to accommodate as many as 1,000 people for corporate and private events. There are four other artisan wineries residing within Treasure Island Wines facility as well as several other tasting rooms on the island. They bring in fruit from Sonoma, Napa, Central Coast and the Sierra Foothills in a few hours. They perform all phases of winery production on site and age and bottle in their facility. Walk down to the promenade for a fantastic view of San Francisco.

I checked into the Sofitel Hotel in Redwood City (San Mateo County) and returned my rental car early the next morning, flew home to complete my 8 counties in 8-day trip.

For More Information-

http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu
www.yolocvb.org
www.clarksburgwineco.com
www.visitwinters.com
www.visitsacramento.com
www.cortibros.biz
www.deltaking.com
www.victoriainn-murphys.com
www.caveandmineadventures.com
www.gocalaveras.com
www.calaveraswines.org
www.visitmurphys.com
www.touramador.com
www.kennedygoldmine.com
www.amadorwines.com
www.edenvaleinn.com
www.visit-eldorado.com
www.eldoradowines.org
www.gonevadacounty.com
www.parks.ca.gov
www.wildandscenicfilmfestival.org
www.sierravintners.com
www.visitplacer.com
www.winery-sf.com
www.visitsanmateocounty.com

Pilgrimage to the Holy Land

I know you expect this to be an article about my visit east to Jerusalem or Mecca. My holy land is located 3,000 plus miles west from my home in New York City and it is known as the Department of Viticulture and Enology at the University of California, Davis, located in Davis, California. It is 85 miles from San Francisco Airport to Davis and as I drove I remembered the last time I had been there, when James Guymon ran the spirits program some 35 years ago. I interviewed him for a story in the Les Amis du Vin Magazine. How could I be so sure of the time? I did not remember the exact date until I met Roger B. Boulton, Professor & Chemical Engineer Stephen Scott Endowed Chair in Enology Department of Viticulture and Enology Agricultural and Environmental Sciences- “Thirty five years ago I was hired to replace another retiring professor as well as teach Jim Guymon’s classes since he also was retiring.” Dr. Boulton studies the chemical and biochemical engineering aspects of winemaking and distilled spirits production. He received both his Bachelor’s and PhD in Chemical Engineering from the University of Melbourne, Australia. Even after more than 35 years living here the accent does stand out.

Viticulture is the cultivation or culture of grapes and Enology is the science that deals with wine and wine making. I remember meeting Maynard Amarine, Harold Olmo and Ann Noble, people I worshiped as I moved my way up the ladder in this most wondrous of professions. Unfortunately, the first two are no longer with us. But Dr. Boulton sure is and he very generously gave me almost three hours of his time touring me around the beautiful new Robert Mondavi Institute, located behind the Mondavi Center for the Performing Arts. In 2001 the late Robert Mondavi donated $25 million to the university for the establishment of the Robert Mondavi Institute of Wine and Food Science, which opened October 2008. There are three academic buildings that house the Department of Food Science and Technology and the Department of Viticulture and Enology.  When people think of MIT they think engineering; Harvard, the law. Davis has graduated more than 2,000 winemaker/owners since it became UC Davis. In the past 30 years they have averaged 55 to 60 graduates per year. Currently the department's 100-plus students are mostly seniors and grad students with some juniors and a few sophomores. Most students enter the major as transfers in their junior year. The department includes 14 faculty members.

The almost complete 8,000-square-foot Jess S. Jackson Sustainable Winery Building will enable the adjacent winery, brewery and food-processing complex to become the first self-sustainable, zero-carbon teaching and research facility in the world. The one-story building was made possible by a $3 million pledge from the late Jess Jackson and his wife, Barbara Banke, proprietor of Jackson Family Wines. In December 2010, UC Davis’ Teaching and Research Winery became the first winery in the world to receive LEED platinum certification, the highest rating for environmental design and construction awarded by the U.S. Green Building Council (LEED stands for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design). Located in the same building, the August A. Busch III Brewing and Food Science Laboratory also became the first such facility to achieve LEED platinum certification. 

Where did it all start? On April 15, 1880, the California Legislature mandated the Regents of the University of California to establish a program providing for instruction and research in viticulture and enology. The leaders in business and state government at the time realized that California had the potential to become one of the world's foremost wine and grape producing regions. They also recognized the establishment of a premier research and educational institution as a critical ingredient in the recipe for economic success.

Originally located on the UC Berkeley campus, the department was closed in 1919 with the passage of prohibition into law. The current Department of Viticulture and Enology was established on the Davis campus in 1935 following the repeal of Prohibition. Today the Department is unique in combining the sciences of viticulture and enology in a single research and teaching unit that encompasses all of the scientific disciplines that impact grape growing and winemaking. 

Early research efforts were aimed at making grape growing and wine production economically viable for post-Prohibition agriculturists. Work focused on identifying the appropriate varieties and clones best suited to California growing conditions and on defining vineyard practices that would generate sufficient yield to render grape growing profitable. At the same time the technology to assure the production of sound, defect-free wines was developed. 

Later research aimed at expanding knowledge of the factors that impact grape and wine characters so that the winemaking processes could be tailored by individual winemakers to achieve the desired flavor and aroma profiles in the finished wine. Objective methods of sensory evaluation of wines were developed in the department that is now widely used throughout the food and beverage industries. Descriptive analysis of wines has now become a standard procedure for wine evaluation and has had the added benefit of making wines less intimidating for the consumer. Marketplace interest in wine has further increased due to research that point to various components in wine that may have beneficial human health effects.

The Enology Building and Cellar, built in 1939, serve as the primary hands-on teaching space for the department's students. The Cellar holds over 70,000 bottles of wine and includes wines made by the department as well as wines donated by wineries and private collectors. The Pilot Winery allows the students to learn how to operate commercial-scale winery equipment as well as practice the latest winemaking techniques and procedures. The UC Davis Vineyards provide the students and faculty with 120 acres of high-quality wine grapes and table grapes. There is also an experimental vineyard located in the Oakville area of Napa Valley.

If this all seems complicated all you have to know is California is the leading wine producing state— California’s 211.9 million cases held a 61 percent share of the U.S. market. Californians enjoy nearly one in five (18 percent) of the bottles consumed in the United States. If California were a nation, it would be the fourth leading wine-producing country in the world behind France, Italy and Spain. Thank you UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology.

For More Information-
http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu

Some photos supplied by UC Davis V&E Department and SF Chronicle

The New Old Bar

The New Old Bar is a soft cover book subtitled Classic Cocktails and Salty Snack from The Hearty Boys Steve McDonagh and Dan Smith. This book is a collection of 200 classic recipes plus 25 small dishes to enjoy while you drink them. The dishes are "bowl-friendly" foods that do not require a folk. Steve and Dan operate the Hearty Boys catering business and Hearty Restaurant in Chicago. They won the first Next Food Network Star show and hosted the Food Network series Party Line with the Hearty Boys.

This book is devoted to all the pre-prohibition cocktails and is aimed at the everyday person. They explain the tools, ingredients, terminology and techniques needed for setting up a home bar. I loved the section on toasts that included curses, blessings and toasts about life and death. The basics talks about ingredients, juices, garnishes, bitters, simple syrup, eggs and ice.
Published by Agate Publishing- Evanston, Illinois at $19.95.

Reprinted with permission from The New Old Bar: Classic Cocktails and Salty Snacks from The Hearty Boys, by Steve McDonagh and Dan Smith, Agate Midway, November 2012.

Sports Network Awards

I was invited to the Sports Network 26th annual Football Championship Subdivision Awards (the old Division 1-AA) dinner at the Sheraton Society Hill Hotel in Philadelphia. Presented were the the Walter Payton award for the player of the year(Taylor Heinicke- Old Dominion); Eddie Robinson award for coach of the year(Craig Bohl- North Dakota State); Buck Buchanan award for defensive player(Caleb Schreibeis- Montana State) and Jerry Rice award for outstanding freshman(John Robertson- Villanova). Jerry Rice hasn't caught a pass since 2005, but the NFL's all-time leading receiver was very hospitable and showed me some of his dance moves. Rice finished third on the second season of ABC's Dancing with the Stars,